setup saw for 30 degree ripping
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setup saw for 30 degree ripping
I need to make the above cuts but not sure how to set up my Mark V to do this. I guess you need to remove the table insert in order to get a 30 degree
tilt on the table. I have never tried this. Is this a safe way to get the job done or is there another way?
tilt on the table. I have never tried this. Is this a safe way to get the job done or is there another way?
An easier way may be to use a skilsaw?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- dusty
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mandjb wrote:I need to make the above cuts but not sure how to set up my Mark V to do this. I guess you need to remove the table insert in order to get a 30 degree
tilt on the table. I have never tried this. Is this a safe way to get the job done or is there another way?
I always remove the insert when I am setting up table tilt. BUT DON"T WORK WITH THE INSERT REMOVED. There is an wide opening insert for this. Also, you can cut your own insert if need be.
This is safe so long as you realize that lumber above the blade will tend to slide down into the blade and you must deal with that. If possible, I clamp the stock above the blade to the miter gauge fence so that they do not slide downward. If you are ripping, you probably cannot do that.
I attempt to keep those cutoffs small and stay out of the line of fire when I am doing what you are discussing.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
mandjb wrote:I need to make the above cuts but not sure how to set up my Mark V to do this. I guess you need to remove the table insert in order to get a 30 degree
tilt on the table. I have never tried this. Is this a safe way to get the job done or is there another way?
Assuming you are ripping - remove the insert - lower the table over the blade as normal - tilt the table to 30 degrees while extending the quill so the blade remains centered (almost) - re-install the insert.
Keep the rip fence below the blade. use the upper blade guard and --Use a feather board and an outfeed support to the board does not fall into the blade.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
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Why are y'all removing the insert?
What is missing here, is 30 degree from what(vertical or horizontal), and what are the dimensions of the workpiece?
1 Raise table above blade.
2 adjust table to 30 degrees.
3 advance the quill so the blade appears centered in the blade slot.
4 lower the table onto the blade(fine tune the quill if needed).
What is missing here, is 30 degree from what(vertical or horizontal), and what are the dimensions of the workpiece?
1 Raise table above blade.
2 adjust table to 30 degrees.
3 advance the quill so the blade appears centered in the blade slot.
4 lower the table onto the blade(fine tune the quill if needed).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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I can not do that-----because I operate with an insert that will not tolerate a 30° tilt with the insert installed. I use a ZCI.JPG40504 wrote:Why are y'all removing the insert?
What is missing here, is 30 degree from what(vertical or horizontal), and what are the dimensions of the workpiece?
1 Raise table above blade.
2 adjust table to 30 degrees.
3 advance the quill so the blade appears centered in the blade slot.
4 lower the table onto the blade(fine tune the quill if needed).
If you tilt that table with an insert installed, you run the risk of putting sidewise pressure on the blade. Removing the insert, tilting the table and then centering the insert avoids that.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
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Does not raising the table above the blade while tilting not accomplish the same thing as removal?dusty wrote:I can not do that-----because I operate with an insert that will not tolerate a 30° tilt with the insert installed. I use a ZCI.
If you tilt that table with an insert installed, you run the risk of putting sidewise pressure on the blade. Removing the insert, tilting the table and then centering the insert avoids that.
Now I have not the foggiest idea of how to create a ZCI to operate with the table tilted. Well maybe by securing it at the angle(wedge or whatever) and then lowering the insert down on to the blade. The tilt requires the ZCI to have a wider opening as well as it being 'at the angle'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Matthias Wandel from woodgears.ca (well, actually, he's from the Ottawa area) shows us how in the YouTube video embedded on this page:JPG40504 wrote:
Now I have not the foggiest idea of how to create a ZCI to operate with the table tilted.
http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/insert.html#video
The process will be a little different for the Shopsmith, but will show you the basic idea.
- dusty
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Why does the opening need to be wider. If you secure an uncut insert into the table and simply lower the table unto a running blade, the blade will cut the kerf that it needs. All that is necessary BEFORE doing this is make certain that the blade comes up in the cutout where you want it. I typically try to center the kerf in the opening.JPG40504 wrote:Does not raising the table above the blade while tilting not accomplish the same thing as removal? Yes, but that is not the way I do it.
Now I have not the foggiest idea of how to create a ZCI to operate with the table tilted. Well maybe by securing it at the angle(wedge or whatever) and then lowering the insert down on to the blade. The tilt requires the ZCI to have a wider opening as well as it being 'at the angle'.
Same as a 90 degree ZCI except that it is cut with the table at the required angle.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.