setup saw for 30 degree ripping

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mandjb
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setup saw for 30 degree ripping

Post by mandjb »

I need to make the above cuts but not sure how to set up my Mark V to do this. I guess you need to remove the table insert in order to get a 30 degree
tilt on the table. I have never tried this. Is this a safe way to get the job done or is there another way?
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

An easier way may be to use a skilsaw?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

mandjb wrote:I need to make the above cuts but not sure how to set up my Mark V to do this. I guess you need to remove the table insert in order to get a 30 degree
tilt on the table. I have never tried this. Is this a safe way to get the job done or is there another way?

I always remove the insert when I am setting up table tilt. BUT DON"T WORK WITH THE INSERT REMOVED. There is an wide opening insert for this. Also, you can cut your own insert if need be.

This is safe so long as you realize that lumber above the blade will tend to slide down into the blade and you must deal with that. If possible, I clamp the stock above the blade to the miter gauge fence so that they do not slide downward. If you are ripping, you probably cannot do that.

I attempt to keep those cutoffs small and stay out of the line of fire when I am doing what you are discussing.
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charlese
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Post by charlese »

mandjb wrote:I need to make the above cuts but not sure how to set up my Mark V to do this. I guess you need to remove the table insert in order to get a 30 degree
tilt on the table. I have never tried this. Is this a safe way to get the job done or is there another way?

Assuming you are ripping - remove the insert - lower the table over the blade as normal - tilt the table to 30 degrees while extending the quill so the blade remains centered (almost) - re-install the insert.

Keep the rip fence below the blade. use the upper blade guard and --Use a feather board and an outfeed support to the board does not fall into the blade.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Why are y'all removing the insert?

What is missing here, is 30 degree from what(vertical or horizontal), and what are the dimensions of the workpiece?

1 Raise table above blade.

2 adjust table to 30 degrees.

3 advance the quill so the blade appears centered in the blade slot.

4 lower the table onto the blade(fine tune the quill if needed).
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:Why are y'all removing the insert?

What is missing here, is 30 degree from what(vertical or horizontal), and what are the dimensions of the workpiece?

1 Raise table above blade.

2 adjust table to 30 degrees.

3 advance the quill so the blade appears centered in the blade slot.

4 lower the table onto the blade(fine tune the quill if needed).
I can not do that-----because I operate with an insert that will not tolerate a 30° tilt with the insert installed. I use a ZCI.

If you tilt that table with an insert installed, you run the risk of putting sidewise pressure on the blade. Removing the insert, tilting the table and then centering the insert avoids that.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

dusty wrote:I can not do that-----because I operate with an insert that will not tolerate a 30° tilt with the insert installed. I use a ZCI.

If you tilt that table with an insert installed, you run the risk of putting sidewise pressure on the blade. Removing the insert, tilting the table and then centering the insert avoids that.
Does not raising the table above the blade while tilting not accomplish the same thing as removal?

Now I have not the foggiest idea of how to create a ZCI to operate with the table tilted. Well maybe by securing it at the angle(wedge or whatever) and then lowering the insert down on to the blade. The tilt requires the ZCI to have a wider opening as well as it being 'at the angle'.
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E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
mandjb
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Post by mandjb »

Thanks for all of the information. As it turns out plans have changed and I do not need to make this cut now. I will still try out your instructions so in case I do need to make this kind of cut in the future I will be ready.
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Post by Culprit »

JPG40504 wrote:
Now I have not the foggiest idea of how to create a ZCI to operate with the table tilted.
Matthias Wandel from woodgears.ca (well, actually, he's from the Ottawa area) shows us how in the YouTube video embedded on this page:

http://woodgears.ca/delta_saw/insert.html#video

The process will be a little different for the Shopsmith, but will show you the basic idea.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

JPG40504 wrote:Does not raising the table above the blade while tilting not accomplish the same thing as removal? Yes, but that is not the way I do it.

Now I have not the foggiest idea of how to create a ZCI to operate with the table tilted. Well maybe by securing it at the angle(wedge or whatever) and then lowering the insert down on to the blade. The tilt requires the ZCI to have a wider opening as well as it being 'at the angle'.
Why does the opening need to be wider. If you secure an uncut insert into the table and simply lower the table unto a running blade, the blade will cut the kerf that it needs. All that is necessary BEFORE doing this is make certain that the blade comes up in the cutout where you want it. I typically try to center the kerf in the opening.

Same as a 90 degree ZCI except that it is cut with the table at the required angle.
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