I have problems with the blade cutting at an angle from the back to the front of the bandsaw table. I have the blade at 90det to the table but and parrallel to the side of the table.
When I have the fence on the table and start a cut, the blade walks towards the non open side of the bandsaw. I have heard this is do to how the blade is tracking on the upper and lower wheel, but they both seem to be the same. Any help would be great.
it is hard to describe in words so hope this is clear enough to get the point across.
The poblem you are having is in the blade. One side of the blade cuts just a little better than the other and drifts to that side. This is why your fence is adjustable to the right and to the left for whichever side the blade tends to drift towards.
I hope this short and sweet explaination helps you.
Be good,
Drew
"When one has finished building one's house, one suddenly realizes that in the process one has learned something that one really needed to know in the worst way - before one began."
Drift can be compensated for. It cannot be eliminated because it is a function of the blade you are using at the time. Some blade manufacturers claim to have blades that will not introduce drift - I don't know because I haven't used them. Maybe - but I'd expect them to be more expensive.
Sometimes cutting with a slower feed rate will help reduce drift. Tracking on the SS band-saw is different than on other band-saws so it may not be a factor in drift.
In the traveling academy, they suggest making a square board, drawing a line paralel to one edge in the middle of the board, cutting that line doing whatever you need to to keep the blade on the line, stop halfway through the board, clamp it in place, and adjust your fence to align with the edge of the clamped board.
My fence adjustment was literally close to 10 degrees and I got fairly decent cuts after I did it. Hope that helps.
Rob is right on. In the video mastering your bandsaw Mark Duginski explains it the same way and it works. If you have a local library thats where I picked up the video and book by Mark. There are a lot of neat ideas in it.
Here are some pictures for you to see. I am not trying to start a Fight or anything, as this is for your info only, It took me 4 mins. to set up my home made fence, 3 7/8" at each end, no allowance for drift. I was not worried about the thickness of the cut. it turns out that it is just under 1/8". I just want you to see what "this bandsaw will do". It is one of the best little BS I have used. I, also used the WRONG BLADE, 72" 3/8 x 10 TPI. I should have used a blade, 3/8 x with 3 TPI, as it would have cleared the sawdust faster and made life easier for the BS. I will tell you, that I could resaw 6" oak with it. I did this free hand no guides just shoved the wood through, [as picture #1 shows where I stopped and changed hands] I only measured two of the pieces were out about 4thou. from one end to the other. Gentlemen, I truly believe
BS drift went out a long time ago. Set your machine up and, Buy a good blade that has ground teeth, not stamped, and use it for resawing only, Nothing Else. buy another blade for every thing else. A Very Merry Christmas To You and Your's. Cheers Doug & Marilyn in cold Canada.
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Way to go Doug! I like your use of the UHMW plastic. I've used similar fences for routing. Also I agree the Shopsmith bandsaw is a great tool!
For me drift all depends on the blade I'm using at the time. I have one 5/8" blade ,4TPI, I use for resawing. It cut perfectly straight for a while then started to drift right. Remembering my days with two man cross-cut saws, I grabbed a punch and a hammer and re-set some of the tooth set. Miraculously - it cut straight again.
It is really easier to adjust the fence for the current drift - like recommended by professional woodworkers, but just wanted to say this other method will also work for those so inclined to fix the cause. Since the set of the teeth will continue to vary a bit depending on the way a particular blade (the teeth) have been stressed (and dulled) while cutting - re-setting is kind of fruitless. It was just interesting to me that it could be done.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
I haven't had your good fortune resawing with just any old blade but then I haven't purchased blades in a long time. Maybe there are blades made more for resawing than any I have.
I shall pay particular attention the next time I place an order to make certain that I get a proper blade.
Once I have it, I'll dedicate it.
I cut a lot of aluminum and I must admit that sometimes I have been in to much of a hurry to change blades. I may be the root cause for drift and not my bandsaw or blade.
What width blade should normally be used for resawing. I have been using a 5/8" blade with 3-4 tpi. I also have a 1/2" blade with 6 tpi that seems to work well but I must compensate for lead.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
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dusty wrote:"...
What width blade should normally be used for resawing. I have been using a 5/8" blade with 3-4 tpi. I also have a 1/2" blade with 6 tpi that seems to work well but I must compensate for lead.
Both of those will work just fine (no pun intended) My favorite is the 5/8", it resaws with clean, almost ripple free faces. Just go slow - don't rush the blade.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Just go slow - don't rush the blade.