Turning green into gold(copper) M5 blade guard

[JPG]

As a result of the generosity of Judaspre1982, I now am the proud owner of a Mark 5 blade guard. Looks funky since it is a greenie rather than a goldie version.

So..........

This thread will show the operations undertaken to turn it into a goldie colored guard.

This is a somewhat simple endeavor, but all the steps taken are the same as that required for a larger project.


The first step was to remove the paint(and any rust) from the steel sheet metal cover portion of the lower guard. The method used was unusual in that electrolysis was used to remove the paint.

Inside had a thin coat of paint and the paint almost fell off.

[ATTACH]17642[/ATTACH]

The outside was a bit thicker and required mild scraping to remove the paint.

[ATTACH]17643[/ATTACH]

Both sides were in the electrolysis tub for less than a half hour each
(the cover was reversed since the electrolysis is 'line of sight' in the tub[anode to cathode])

Once stripped, a slight bend became noticeable. It insures the cover is tight against the lower blade guard casting in the out port area. The cover is only held on by two screws closer to the top.

[ATTACH]17644[/ATTACH]


Much more to come!


Pix 'fixed'.

[judaspre1982]

========================

[JPG]

Decided to use citrusstrip on the rest since it is mostly cast aluminum.

Beginning with the lower guard, a liberal application of citrusstrip and left overnite.
[ATTACH]17598[/ATTACH]

After paint removal. I was suspicious the way tube prop was blox and I have decided to not paint that.
[ATTACH]17599[/ATTACH]

Inside of lower guard before paint removal.
[ATTACH]17600[/ATTACH]

This shows the result of too little citrusstrip being applied
[ATTACH]17601[/ATTACH]

So a more liberal application has done.
[ATTACH]17602[/ATTACH]

The Citrusstrip does not need overnite, but it does tend to dry out if set too long. A reapplication will soften things up quickly.

[JPG]

Continuing with the lower guard.

Inside cleaned up
[ATTACH]17604[/ATTACH]

There are some nooks and crannies which need liberal application of citrusstrip.
[ATTACH]17605[/ATTACH]

With a bit of patience and a high tech scraper, they will come clean also.
[ATTACH]17606[/ATTACH]

These were an area where citrusstrip did not get applied sufficiently.
[ATTACH]17607[/ATTACH]

And finally the high tech scraper for not only the nooks and crannies, but the flatter areas as well. Notice the unique shape at the small end that makes it work so well.
[ATTACH]17608[/ATTACH]

Patent not Pending!:D

[JPG]

Now for some technique information etc.

In spite of the wonderful high tech scraper, a nylon brush works well on non-flat surfaces(and most other surfaces as well).
[ATTACH]17609[/ATTACH]
The paint needs to be very ready to separate from the object for the brush to be effective.


Some rough spots will just be plain stubborn to remove - let them be!
[ATTACH]17612[/ATTACH]

Upper guard cleaned up
[ATTACH]17613[/ATTACH]

Now for some non-obvious non-illustrated skinny!

When using the brush, a funky residue will be left behind, and the brush will clog up with gooey residue that helps distribute the funky residue. Lo and behold a simple solution is available.(pun intended) I just happen to have a tub of water with washing soda dissolved that resembles 'soapy water'. That solution quickly removes the gunk from the brush and bringing the solution carrying brush to the funky residue on the object of our attention will almost magically cause the funky residue to depart. What is left behind is a very clean 'object'.

Finally the splitter and anti-kickback pawls.
[ATTACH]17614[/ATTACH]
Not well demonstrated in this pix, but citrusstrip will clean off all grime from most parts. The splitter was plated and has a whitish residue(oxide?) that will need to be wire brushed to really clean it up.

[JPG]

So where did all the hardware go(screws washers etc.)?

Here it is prior to being cleaned. Since much of it is black oxideed, evaporust is not a viable choice(it removes the blox).
[ATTACH]17615[/ATTACH]
An 8" medium wire brush driven by SS is my weapon of choice.


The upper parts are cleaned and will be subjected to a liberal application of JPW and stuffed into a pill bottle and polished at reassembly.
[ATTACH]17616[/ATTACH]
The lower parts are headed for a citrusstrip application and repeat brushing etc.

I have decided to not paint any of those parts.

[JPG]

Painting

Not much to show,

Primed with self etching primer - both steel and aluminum parts - very quick drying
[ATTACH]17617[/ATTACH]

Plate painted hammered coppertone
[ATTACH]17618[/ATTACH]

Lower guard painted hammered coppertone
[ATTACH]17619[/ATTACH]

And I decided to deviate from OEM by painting the upper guard gold hammertone.
[ATTACH]17620[/ATTACH]

Presently those painted parts are cooking in the sun and I will reassemble them tonight after they cool down.


Almost done!:)

[judaspre1982]

=======================

[tgamel]

Thanks for the tutorial JPG, I had some questions earlier this month on just this process. Cool to see how you do it with pictures and explanations. I think both the Greenie and Goldie paint jobs look a whole lot nicer than the battleship grey of my Mark V. Wish SS had kinda kept those colors. Anyway, one day when mine is battered and bruised, or I just get bored I might paint it, but not right now.

[JPG]

Some pre assembly operations and design observation

Clear holes of debris(citrusstrip, paint).
[ATTACH]17629[/ATTACH]
Use bit <= to original hole size by hand.

Chase threaded holes.
[ATTACH]17630[/ATTACH]
I also reamed the ends of all holes with a hand held countersink bit to remove all burrs(OEM burrs:eek:).

The upper guard rear slot is closed(at rest).
[ATTACH]17631[/ATTACH]

When the spacer and screw are attached, the slot is held open to a constant width.
[ATTACH]17632[/ATTACH]