Retractable casters; how to remove the rods?

wgander · Post by **wgander** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 3:28 pm

If I drive out the roll pins, will I be able to put them back in?
I want to soak the rods in Evapo-Rust and then coat them with Rust-Block.
After removing the retractable caster from the Shopsmith, I noticed I'd have to remove roll pins from both rods to be able to fit just the rods into a tray of solvent.
So, what size drift should I use to remove and then replace the pins and are the pins reusable?

(500 upgraded to 510)

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jun 30, 2012 4:30 pm

wgander wrote:If I drive out the roll pins, will I be able to put them back in?
I want to soak the rods in Evapo-Rust and then coat them with Rust-Block.
After removing the retractable caster from the Shopsmith, I noticed I'd have to remove roll pins from both rods to be able to fit just the rods into a tray of solvent.
So, what size drift should I use to remove and then replace the pins and are the pins reusable?

(500 upgraded to 510)

Yes
1/8" to start, 3/32 to finish. The hole in the rod is tight for 1/8" pin punch.
Yes

Do take note and mark so you can reassemble correctly. There is one correct way, and are several wrong ways.

The rods are identical, the foot pedals are identical and can be installed to the rod 4 different ways, the cams are identical and can also be installed 4 different ways, the springs are identical, the pistons are identical the tie rods may vary. Only the castings are left/right pairs and the pairs are identical. The tie rods need to be attached to the same castings(end and orientation) as original(the pin holes were drilled and do vary).

Good Luck!

I mark with a prick punch the tie rod ends and the castings with 0,1 2,3 dimples so at least the rod will be reassembled to the same castings and the ends match. You will still have to rotate the rods for the best hole match. Dry assembly with temporary pins(nails?) is recommended.

I also usually do not get the crank and pistons right at first(gotta visualize it operating to get them all correct while considering which one you are assembling(left/right)).

db5 · Post by **db5** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 7:37 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]Yes
1/8" to start, 3/32 to finish. The hole in the rod is tight for 1/8" pin punch.
Yes

Do take note and mark so you can reassemble correctly. There is one correct way, and are several wrong ways.]

Well, I wish I had read this before I completely dismantled them from my 510. In putting them back together I just looked at the parts, compared them to what I remembered I had taken apart (I should have taken pictures) and put it all back together. From your description I had a 1 in 16 probability of getting it right. I got it right. Therefore, either I should go to Las Vegas because of my incredible luck or it may not be so difficult to reassemble these things the right way. I can't believe any manufacture would design an assembly that could result in 15 wrong ways to reassemble it and only 1 right one.

lightnin · Post by **lightnin** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:42 pm

db5 wrote: I can't believe any manufacture would design an assembly that could result in 15 wrong ways to reassemble it and only 1 right one.

Maybe the designer was Ern&#337]

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:45 pm

lightnin wrote:Maybe the designer was Ern&#337]

Perfect response, I loved it:D Jim

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:19 am

db5 wrote:Well, I wish I had read this before I completely dismantled them from my 510. In putting them back together I just looked at the parts, compared them to what I remembered I had taken apart (I should have taken pictures) and put it all back together. From your description I had a 1 in 16 probability of getting it right. I got it right. Therefore, either I should go to Las Vegas because of my incredible luck or it may not be so difficult to reassemble these things the right way. I can't believe any manufacture would design an assembly that could result in 15 wrong ways to reassemble it and only 1 right one.

What they designed was an assembly using a minimum of different parts and only two parts that are a l/r pair. The numerous possible incorrect ways to assemble are irrelevant, as in a manufacturing environment that can be controlled.

The assembly was not designed for easy disassembly/reassembly. The unique drilling of each assembly is a hidden gotcha.

IMHO it was a job well done!

Glad you succeeded in reassembling. Hope you do not discover otherwise later!;)

wgander · Post by **wgander** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:44 am

If I took pictures, I'm not sure they would have shown the right views: I ended up installing the wheel foot pedals facing the wrong way and don't know which way the cams face.
Using a capped pipe to soak the rods is a good idea but i had a tray that was long enough for them. After the Evapo-Rust soak I rinsed them and sprayed them with Rust-Block and let them dry overnight. Then I waxed everything before reassembly. Today I reverse the wheel foot pedals to get them right and try to determine if there's a right way to install the cams.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:56 am

wgander wrote:If I took pictures, I'm not sure they would have shown the right views: I ended up installing the wheel foot pedals facing the wrong way and don't know which way the cams face.
Using a capped pipe to soak the rods is a good idea but i had a tray that was long enough for them. After the Evapo-Rust soak I rinsed them and sprayed them with Rust-Block and let them dry overnight. Then I waxed everything before reassembly. Today I reverse the wheel foot pedals to get them right and try to determine if there's a right way to install the cams.

As long as the two cams on a given rod are installed ther same way, I don't believe it makes a difference except in the order of the step ie all the way down, midway up, all the way up OR all the way up, midway down, all the way down.

This might be considered an exercise in observation.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jul 03, 2012 12:49 pm

Actually it is an exercise in visualizing how the parts will function when assembled. The foot pedal orientation on the shaft(both the direction of the curved levers and the rotational positioning on the shaft) and the cams(same degrees of variability). I need to emphasize that in the link below.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=4110

Crucial observation of the relative rotational positioning of the cam flats and the foot pedal levers needs to be pointed out as well as their end for end orientation to the shaft.

Keep in mind there are different versions out there and the cams and crank attachment varies(tension pins in place of set screws with half blind holes and cam shaft retaining(?) screws.

Adding to all this confusion is the fact that the two casters are assembled differently so they function as a left/right pair. That means if you use one as an assembly guide, you will end up with two lefts or two rights!

wgander · Post by **wgander** » Thu Jul 05, 2012 9:10 pm

If you're going to take the retractable caster assembly apart, take many pictures from different angles first.
The link is helpful but I wasn't sure about the orientation of the cams.
It took several adjustments to get them so the foot pedals raised the Shopsmith part way, all the way, and back down.

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Retractable casters; how to remove the rods?

Retractable casters; how to remove the rods?

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