Shopsmith Forums

I have posted on this before but I am going to post again. I am too pleased with the results to not.

Table alignment seems to be one of the more complex alignment issues that we Shopsmith users face. I think I have just made it a piece of cake with a simple table saw insert.

Yes, the table had to have been aligned before I made this jig but once that was done making this jig is a 15 minute process that makes table alignment even quicker than that.

If I doubt the table alignment, I pull off the normal ZCI and install this. If the table is out of alignment, I know it immediately. At that point, all I have to do is loosen the trunnion bolts, install this jig on the blade and jockey the table around until the jig aligns with the cutout. Tighten the trunnion bolts and I am done.

I did that this morning in about twenty minutes and that included a recheck with the dial indicator and some camera shots.

I think you guys all need one of these.

[ATTACH]18006[/ATTACH]
Just a thick ZCI made right after that table was carefully aligned. I do not power the Mark V with this installed to preserve tight fit.

[ATTACH]18007[/ATTACH]
Mark on the blade should be vertical and should align with mark on ZCI.

[ATTACH]18008[/ATTACH]
Close enough for all of us.

[ATTACH]18009[/ATTACH]
Equally close.

I thought the whole idea of table alignment was to kill a couple of hours in the morning so the day won't be so long:D I do have a question. Do you use a specific saw blade to make the jig and when doing the alignment? Are all saw blades the same width? Thanks in advance for your answers. I just ordered the SS dial indicator so I can perform this task. How did you make the jig. Cut the slot first, then trace the shape from the removed insert and cut on the band saw?

fredsheldon wrote:I thought the whole idea of table alignment was to kill a couple of hours in the morning so the day won't be so long:D I do have a question. Do you use a specific saw blade to make the jig and when doing the alignment? Are all saw blades the same width? Thanks in advance for your answers. I just ordered the SS dial indicator so I can perform this task. How did you make the jig. Cut the slot first, then trace the shape from the removed insert and cut on the band saw?

I use a thin kerf. All of my thin kerf are the same thickness.

I made the insert first. Then on a table that I knew to be properly aligned, I cut the kerf.

The insert, to be used for alignment, must fit tightly in the table cutout. I cut it to width and then rounded the end using the bandsaw and belt sander. This is a cut to fit project.

I would think these would work on any 510/520.

Perhaps what you need to is readjust your table to .000 thousands parallel and then start making inserts and sell them. Then even with a little expected slop a persons blade would be well within tolerance.

I would buy one say for $15 plus reasonable shipping. It would not take long to supplement your income enough to afford a Power Pro.

Ed in Tampa wrote:I would think these would work on any 510/520.

Perhaps what you need to is readjust your table to .000 thousands parallel and then start making inserts and sell them. Then even with a little expected slop a persons blade would be well within tolerance.

I would buy one say for $15 plus reasonable shipping. It would not take long to supplement your income enough to afford a Power Pro.

This would be a real challenge and would be the biggest reason why I would not attempt this. I accept what I am able to reasonably achieve whereas the next person (the customer) expects what he/she expects.

That will take care of blade to slot alignment. Which next?



Maybe Ed would part with $ to get one from you, but we be wood nerds here and most would simply make their own!

Kicker is getting it 'perfect' before adding kerf slot.

[quote="JPG40504"]Kicker is getting it 'perfect' before adding kerf slot.]

Exactly!!!! That to me is would be worth $10-15

[quote="JPG40504"]That will take care of blade to slot alignment. Which next?



Maybe Ed would part with $ to get one from you, but we be wood nerds here and most would simply make their own!

Kicker is getting it 'perfect' before adding kerf slot. ]

I would hope that a vast majority of the forum members would make this for themselves before they would buy it. Getting accurate measurements and fitting the insert with precision is the time consuming part - 10 minutes maybe.

Getting the table aligned before making the kerf cut is the really important part. However, remember that 'perfect' is in the eyes of the user. The purpose of this jig is to allow you to return your table to 'what you consider perfectly aligned' in a minimum amount of time and with no fussing around with dial gauges and the like.

I am satisfied with my table as long as the measurements are within +- .005". When they come out per the images in this thread, I am delighted. The next guy might not be.

Some people demand absolute precision.:rolleyes::)

Ed in Tampa wrote:I would think these would work on any 510/520.

Perhaps what you need to is readjust your table to .000 thousands parallel and then start making inserts and sell them. Then even with a little expected slop a persons blade would be well within tolerance.

I would buy one say for $15 plus reasonable shipping. ....

WOW!

Me too!