Shopsmith Forums

So back in April Heath posted a couple of band saw boxes he had made and when I got a band saw his projects were in my mind. I was going to just post my "master piece" when it was done, but I keep creating questions so I guess I'd better ask as I go along. I will post pics as needed and when complete.

I am making an owl band saw box for my wife. We have an anniversary the second week of September and I want to give it to her then.

As starting point a block of Hackberry (the oither side of the block is more interesting) and a drawing
[ATTACH]18328[/ATTACH]
To here so far (next 2 pics)
[ATTACH]18332[/ATTACH][ATTACH]18330[/ATTACH]
A couple of issues
[ATTACH]18329[/ATTACH][ATTACH]18331[/ATTACH]

The first issue is that a lot of my cuts went too far leaving saw marks too deep to sand out. Any ideas to minimize their impact would be helpful.

An other issue is that the table insert or the hole for it caught my work piece while I was cutting out the upper drawer and I, unwisely 8-(, kept trying to feed the work around the curve. I should have stopped sooner and looked for the problem. So, not a very smooth ark on the right side of the box.

My first question was how much sanding do I do on interior surfaces of a band saw box? For reasons I am unsure of, the radius of some curves are different on the front than on the back. I think I left the guard/upper guides well above the work piece at least once. and one of the problem curves was on a small radius that needed "nibbling". The result of the differing radii was that the drawers would not slide in and out without sanding of the walls. So I kind of got an answer. I'm guessing in terms of a finished looking piece my focus should be on exterior surfaces and sanding of interior surfaces just creates gaps.

The poorly thought out plan is to mount a bit of maple to a dowel and shape (carve/sand) a beak out of the maple; this is to serve as a drawer pull. The lower drawer will have claws, also of maple, added for pulls if I can figure how I will make and attach them. I may post my plans for the claws here for a sanity check...once I have a plan.

I know There is a lot of sanding ahead, the front shell should be put on the belt sander and brought down so the drawers are flush or even a little proud. The pictures don't show the surface around the knot (front, left of the lower box drawer) that I thought I would leave pitted. But if this is a poor idea, let me know.

My next problem area is, as Heath had, what finish to use. I am thinking stain the eyes darker and also the base of the box, like the owls claws were on a branch. From limited tests, I think no stain on the bulk of the work piece. Other Ideas are welcome. I have no spray equipment, so any spray solution would have to be aerosol.

Even with all the mistakes, questions, etc., a band saw box is a good beginner project. I have had a lot of fun and it will look pretty in spite of me.

[quote="saminmn"]So back in April Heath posted a couple of band saw boxes he had made and when I got a band saw his projects were in my mind. I was going to just post my "master piece" when it was done, but I keep creating questions so I guess I'd better ask as I go along. I will post pics as needed and when complete.

I am making an owl band saw box for my wife. We have an anniversary the second week of September and I want to give it to her then.

As starting point a block of Hackberry (the oither side of the block is more interesting) and a drawing
[ATTACH]18328[/ATTACH]
To here so far (next 2 pics)
[ATTACH]18332[/ATTACH][ATTACH]18330[/ATTACH]
A couple of issues
[ATTACH]18329[/ATTACH][ATTACH]18331[/ATTACH]

The first issue is that a lot of my cuts went too far leaving saw marks too deep to sand out. Any ideas to minimize their impact would be helpful.

An other issue is that the table insert or the hole for it caught my work piece while I was cutting out the upper drawer and I, unwisely 8-(, kept trying to feed the work around the curve. I should have stopped sooner and looked for the problem. So, not a very smooth ark on the right side of the box.

My first question was how much sanding do I do on interior surfaces of a band saw box? For reasons I am unsure of, the radius of some curves are different on the front than on the back. I think I left the guard/upper guides well above the work piece at least once. and one of the problem curves was on a small radius that needed "nibbling". The result of the differing radii was that the drawers would not slide in and out without sanding of the walls. So I kind of got an answer. I'm guessing in terms of a finished looking piece my focus should be on exterior surfaces and sanding of interior surfaces just creates gaps.

The poorly thought out plan is to mount a bit of maple to a dowel and shape (carve/sand) a beak out of the maple]

I've never built a bandsaw box so I won't attempt to answer most of your questions. As to the question highlighted above in red (why is the radius different on the front and back), I'm betting you need to shim the bandsaw table front to back. Please read this thread. http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread. ... ndsaw+shim In particular take a look at the photo in post #23. If your table/blade relationship looks like that, photo you will get different a different radius in the top and bottom of cylinders/circles cut out of thick pieces.

This un';)
http://shopsmith.net/forums/showpost.htm?p=109342&postcount=23

Don't let the "mistakes" bother you. Remember, this is a hand made piece of art, not a production piece. What you consider flaws are unique marks of character. The best advice I can give you is don't stress about it.

I don't think the spots where your saw went a little too deep are a big deal. Make them the same on both sides and use them to show definition between the owl's body parts.

I wouldn't sand any more than is necessary on the outside of the drawers and inside of the drawer cavity. Don't try to "correct" a shape by sanding away wood there. You'll end up with a big gap and ill fitting drawer. The shape is what it is and what it is is just fine.

If you want the drawers to sit a little proud, you can glue a shim to the back (inside the cavity) to stop the drawer at the depth you want. Might be easier than sanding down the frame that much.

Hopefully someone else will have better advice. I don't have much experience to base my advice on, so take it with a grain of salt. But you're doing great!

Yes, when I went to the thread and saw the image with the square, I went down stairs and put a square to mine... same angle. I don't know that that is the whole cause of the problem, but I won't kick myself for this problem:)

Thanks for pointing me to the thread. Should I plan on shimming often, or only it once? I.e. Should I return the table to the lead-at-the-top mode when I am not putting curves in thick workpieces?

heathicus wrote:Don't let the "mistakes" bother you. Remember, this is a hand made piece of art, not a production piece. What you consider flaws are unique marks of character. The best advice I can give you is don't stress about it. ] you can glue a shim to the back[/color] (inside the cavity) to stop the drawer at the depth you want. Might be easier than sanding down the frame that much.

Hopefully someone else will have better advice. I don't have much experience to base my advice on, so take it with a grain of salt. But you're doing great!

I had not thought of pitting stops at the back of the drawers - good tip.

Heath, you really were my inspiration to try this as my first band saw project. I am enjoying it very much. Thanks!

As I mentioned in first post I am thinking of putting claws on the lower drawer for drawer-pulls. I have been thinking on this and how I can safely make them and how they will attach. To attach a claw I am planning to cut a saw kerf in the bottom of the drawer and have the base of the claw extend back into the kerf held there with glue. These parts will end up being small, so how to make them safely?

I think I can run a piece of maple into the table saw say 3" or so, stop the saw move the work piece over to create another slot in the wood and continue this until I have a supply of thin, saw kerf thick, strips at the end of my workpiece. The band saw would then cut the claws' hook shape with extra long bases all at one time. These would then be cut loose from the workpiece, each claw sanded, base trimmed (utility knife?) to give the claw its final size, and finally glued into the kerf in the bottom of the drawer. Unless someone sees a flaw or has a better way to handle this, I will see how well I do at creating saw kerf thick pieces using stopped rips on my Model 500.

Any Ideas for a jig to move my work piece over by 2 saw kerfs repeatably? I have an idea of setting a bunch of strips against the fence and a horizontal stop block. Then remove one strip after each cut. As a thought, the same idea might be useful making feather boards, only with the strips clamped to the in-feed side of the rip fence.

Re the 'canted' bandsaw blade. IMHO it is intentional and helpful when resawing thick stock.

As you have discovered it creates the tapered cut in thick stock and when it is a problem, then I consider shimming the table to eliminate the cant a reasonable action. I do not think I would leave it 'square' when going back to resawing. For cutting thinner stock I do not think it matters.

Watch the grain direction on the 'claws'. Do not cause them to be overstressed in the weak direction when 'pulled'.

JPG40504 wrote:Watch the grain direction on the 'claws'. Do not cause them to be overstressed in the weak direction when 'pulled'.

Yea, thinking the grain will run horizontal, following the kerfs (skinny dados;) ) I am going to cut in the bottom of the drawer to hold the bases of the claws. There will be 3 for each foot. the middle one of each triplet would protrude more than others and really be the pull with the others just visible, not really protruding. I may forgo any hook at all, just rounded stubs maybe. I gotta think on it.

Going to practice making small parts in pine, probably in the morning... 'cause I think I hear a beer calling me now:D

saminmn wrote:Yea, thinking the grain will run horizontal, following the kerfs (skinny dados]I think I hear a beer calling me now:D[/B]

From the land of sky blue wa-aa-ters waaaa - aaaa - ters?:rolleyes:



P.S. Beware of bears!