Man, I feel stupid....cross-cutting question.

teamtj · Post by **teamtj** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:31 pm

I am the proud new owner of a Shopsmith...well, I own 2, but only one is working.

I know how to cross-cut wood, but I've always used the fence and the miter guage.

Now I have a project in mind and the wood I need will be longer than the fence/miter can accomodate.

I am at a loss for what to do. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I am needing the following lengths:

40 1/2
21 3/4
18 3/4
16 1/2
35

How do I set up my SS so I can cut those lengths? I feel dumb for not being able to figure it out... Do I simply rely on marking the board and cutting without a fence?

Thanks!

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:59 pm

Please step away from the shopsmith.

If I'm understanding what you are saying, that is, you are combining using the rip fence and the miter gauge at the same time, that is a big no no no no.

There are procedures that let you do that but they involve using a spacer on the rip fence and having the end of your work piece past the that spacer before the work piece touches the blade. Never ever on a through cut should you be attempting to control the workpiece with both the miter gauge and fence.

I would suggest a visit to the PTWFE and reading the section on the table saw.

http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/welcome.htm

After reading those sections if you have farther questions or want to see some photos of setups please let me know and I'll see what I can do about getting you that information.

Ed

bduemig · Post by **bduemig** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 11:18 pm

reible wrote:Please step away from the shopsmith.

If I'm understanding what you are saying, that is, you are combining using the rip fence and the miter gauge at the same time, that is a big no no no no.

Ed

BIG NO NO!!! It will eventually cause binding of the piece between the blade and the fence and throw it back at you.

Once you start using the spacer method, you can extend the distance from your fence to the blade by using the aux table for the rip fence and moving the headstock and main table to the desired distance.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Sep 10, 2012 11:35 pm

teamtj wrote: . . .
I am needing the following lengths:

40 1/2

21 3/4

18 3/4

16 1/2

35
How do I set up my SS so I can cut those lengths? I feel dumb for not being able to figure it out... Do I simply rely on marking the board and cutting without a fence?

Thanks!

Yes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Use extension tables and/or external support on longer pieces.

The fence is for RIPPING!!!!

If you do not already have a miter gauge extension, I recommend making one.

A sled would be even better!;)

backhertz · Post by **backhertz** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 3:22 am

Are you ripping these boards out of a larger board? I could see ripping to width and then take the fence off & use a cross cut table or one of a dozen other ways.

Definitely read the book or at least the sections that will address your questions. It will also address safety which can bite you faster than you can react.

The place you're buying your wood from might cut it length for you. But please be sure to get to know your Mark 7 & it will do you well. A chop/miter saw will also permit you more easily make the cuts- but you didn't tell us how wide the wood is.

newportcycle · Post by **newportcycle** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 5:30 am

Use your skill saw,http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS112/SS112_Busting_Up_Plywood.htm this link will take you to Saw Dust Session 12 and show you how to make a dead accurate jig for your skill saw. If your worried, cut an 1/8" long and sand to final length on SS.

Good luck and dont forget, photos of your project.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 7:57 am

What you have done is not stupid, Morgan! Whenever an operation does not feel right, STOP. Re-evaluate or ask questions.

The ultimate solution for your problem would be a cross-cut sled. Using a sled provides for control of the work piece. It is when you lose control of the work that you are most likely to get hurt.

Please ignore the framing square and block of aluminum. These are not applicable to this discussion. I use those items as a "quick check" for sled positioning.

[ATTACH]18415[/ATTACH]

An immediate solution could be an extension to your miter gauge fence. The miter gauge fence is just too short for the size of the work pieces involved. Even this extension is likely too short; a simple matter of using a longer piece to fabricate the extension.

[ATTACH]18412[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]18413[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]18414[/ATTACH]

Extending the miter gauge fence to about 36" long (or longer) might be necessary to give you the additional work piece support that you need.

Study the information contained in the link that reible provided. I believe they provide information there on miter gauge extensions.

foxtrapper · Post by **foxtrapper** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:44 am

I'll also agree about the wonders of a sled for cross cutting, as well miters and such.

But without end support, big pieces of wood are simply awkward, especially on the itty-bitty table many Shopsmiths have (especially if you've something like a 500).

Many times, a hand held circular saw and edge guide do a better job.

camerio · Post by **camerio** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 9:18 am

You should never feel stupid for asking ...
You should and would feel more stupid for not asking, after the accident ...
We all make mistakes and we learned from it.
Asking is the proof that you care to learn, you care to be safe while doing something and you care about this forum enough to ask questions.
Most accidents happens at home while doing something before reading your manual that came with a tool or not asking advice if a question still persist in you head.
This forum is the best place, even if the answers don't always come fast.
Thanks to all the members of this forum who care to give us their experiences and advice when we ask.
In order for them to do so, we have to ask and that is not stupid at all

teamtj · Post by **teamtj** » Tue Sep 11, 2012 10:20 am

Thanks, everyone, for the quick responses.

In my head I remembered using the fence and the miter gauge for cross-cutting during the creation of the miter gauge extension that the "Get ready, Get Set, Go" manual walks you through when you get a SS initially, but I was incorrect.

I did use the gauge and fence when making a test dado for fun, but the gauge was between the fence and blade (is that a no-no, also?)

I can definitely see the need for a longer gauge extension, so I will probably build one today so I can get to work the correct way. The sled idea sounds intriguing, too, so I may investigate that.

Thanks again everyone for the positive feedback. When I couldn't figure out the right way myself, I knew there were plenty of smart people who could point me in the right direction. I was not disappointed!