steel 12" circular sanding disc - how to remove paper

john_520 · Post by **john_520** » Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:22 pm

Hi everyone,

I recently acquired a Shopsmith and so I've started lurking here
in the hopes of accelerating my learning curve.

I purchased a grab bag of arbors, router bits and miscellaneous components awhile ago.
A steel 12" sanding disc was included in the package.

Does anyone know how most sanding paper discs were bonded to face plates prior to the introduction of velcro ? What would be the best solvent to remove glue and old sandpaper without damaging metal finish ?

I was thinking of trying regular gas or naphta - kerosene, but thought I would ask here first.
The steel disc portion is black and the collar portion is finished like most standard Shopsmith arbors.
I noticed collars are a pretty snug fit on headstock shafts. Is it a good idea to grease or oil headstock shafts to avoid galling ? ... or is this only necessary on non steel to steel applications ?

I'm also looking for a 510 or newer lathe rest height adjustment post if anyone has a spare they might be interested in selling. The post I got with the included rest is a completely threaded style, found on earlier machines.

Thanks.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Sep 14, 2012 4:31 pm

To remove the sand paper, I put them out in the sun to get hot. That normally loosens the adhesive enough to pull the paper away. The remaining adhesive can be cut with mineral spirits.

The arbors are machined to be very snug on the shafts. Mine pop when they come off. I would not recommend and lubricant on the shafts and I definitely would not use any abrasive be used (unless you have burrs or heavy scratches).

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Fri Sep 14, 2012 6:31 pm

dusty wrote:To remove the sand paper, I put them out in the sun to get hot. That normally loosens the adhesive enough to pull the paper away. The remaining adhesive can be cut with mineral spirits.

The arbors are machined to be very snug on the shafts. Mine pop when they come off. I would not recommend and lubricant on the shafts and I definitely would not use any abrasive be used (unless you have burrs or heavy scratches).

I do the same except, I prefer lacquer thinner to remove the adhesive.

john_520 · Post by **john_520** » Sat Sep 15, 2012 5:07 pm

Thanks guys,

I found it a short while later under "Shopsmith most common issues"
I will try your direct sun method over the iron or stove.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:14 am

A little JPW into the hub bore works well.

nil · Post by **nil** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 2:08 am

I like using a heat gun. Much better than waiting on the sun or an oven if you're impatient. You can find them for about $20-$35 on amazon and they're also useful for tons of other things.

2bits · Post by **2bits** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 7:46 pm

nil wrote:I like using a heat gun. Much better than waiting on the sun or an oven if you're impatient. You can find them for about $20-$35 on amazon and they're also useful for tons of other things.

Just don't let your S.O. find out that you re-purposed the hair dryer:eek:

timsturnings · Post by **timsturnings** » Mon Sep 17, 2012 10:28 pm

To clean mine off I just put it on the slowest speed and held a paint scraper/putty knife against the surface. I scraped it in a upward and toward the center motion. Not much pressure, but it melted all the excess glue off and I worked it it to the center of the wheel. The friction of the putty knife on the wheel must have melted the excess glue and I was able to slowly move it to the center. It was a sticky mess to clean up in the center but it cleaned off the surface of the sanding wheel very well and I ended up with a smooth, clean wheel.