I am wondering if you have the wide rubber ring (item 189 in this diagram) in place on the rear way tube between the headstock and carriage. That maintains the minimum spacing between the headstock (and saw guard) and carriage (and table). That said, generally when you bevel cut you extend the quill to keep the blade centered in the table insert. If you do not have the ring you may be moving the carriage toward the headstock to keep the blade centered and causing interference between the guard and the table support. Just a thought.chrism wrote:Hi All,
Put it all back together today - you can see the quality of engineering, never had hands on with one before one thing that surprised me was just how heavy it is! and how easily it moves on the castors. Got it cleaned, waxed and oiled, runs very sweetly. Checked the saw table alignment - no adjustments required only tightened up the fence outfeed clamp.
One "problem" I hope one (or more) of you guys can help with.... how do you bevel rip with the saw guard in position. When I tried I found that the table fouls the bottom guard and so won't go down leaving only 1/4" of blade above the table.
I've taken a photo which is taken from the underside of the table showing the triangular shaped casting touching the lower guard. I know I must be doing something wrong as the various books / manuals show the guard in place!
PS Thanks SDSSmith for the UK link, my searches didn't throw that one up - I've joined.
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
Not sure about the ring, I don't think I have one, I'll check tomorrow. I know about moving the quill forward to allow the table to tilt, it's fine with no guard and would probably work without the dust extractor section of the guard which is what is fouling the table casting.
I got it aligned no problem for a 90 degree cut so I don't think that the rubber ring would make any difference - I'll study the manual again tonight.
I did have the rubber ring, it was in the box of bits and pieces I got with the machine, I thought it was a dust extraction adapter !
I had another good look at the lower saw guard and have now adjusted it properly, by moving the dust extraction part in towards the saw blade simple!!
In my defense I did say I knew I was doing something wrong!!
chrism wrote: In my defense I did say I knew I was doing something wrong!!
Really no need for a defense! I think we all fall into the category of messing something up.
It is the fix that counts!
Happy to have you on board! Best Wishes!
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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That "messing up" to which you refer is the learning process in action. Without that, we would all still be stark beginners. My frustration is that based on this criteria, I should now be a renowned professional and I am not.chrism wrote:Thanks for your kind words - I'm sure there will be lots more messing up in the coming months!!:)
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dusty wrote:That "messing up" to which you refer is the learning process in action. Without that, we would all still be stark beginners. My frustration is that based on this criteria, I should now be a renowned professional and I am not.
Sadly as age accumulates, memory diminishes!(or so I have been told:D)
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange