Shopsmith Forums

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I have everything torn down and soaking in EVAPO-RUST, except for the DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY. The bearings sound dry and noisey so I think I should replace them. How do I remove the assembly from the case. I squirted some blaster stuff in the screw hole in the hope it will loosen it up enough to drive it out. I don't want to break anything so I need some assistance in how do I go about removing it and replacing the bearings. I assume I will need to invest in a bearing puller/installer.

Any suggestions where I can get the new bearings once I get the assembly out? Are those on ebay ok to use?

Thanks for any assistance you might be able to provide.

Fred

fredsheldon wrote:[ATTACH]19264[/ATTACH]

I have everything torn down and soaking in EVAPO-RUST, except for the DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY. The bearings sound dry and noisey so I think I should replace them. How do I remove the assembly from the case. I squirted some blaster stuff in the screw hole in the hope it will loosen it up enough to drive it out. I don't want to break anything so I need some assistance in how do I go about removing it and replacing the bearings. I assume I will need to invest in a bearing puller/installer.

Any suggestions where I can get the new bearings once I get the assembly out? Are those on ebay ok to use?

Thanks for any assistance you might be able to provide.

Fred

Make sure you take out both set screws, they are at 90 degrees to each other. One used to be able to borrow the bearing pullers from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

SDSSmith wrote:Make sure you take out both set screws, they are at 90 degrees to each other. One used to be able to borrow the bearing pullers from O'Reilly Auto Parts.

Or take the shaft in to the store, and they might pull them there, call ahead to make sure.

There is a spacer between the two bearings that the SET screws bear against.

After making sure the SET screws are REMOVED, a bar inserted into the assembly quill bore when struck with a hammer will drive the assembly out. The resulting force will push the rear bearing, while pulling the front bearing.

6205 25x52x15

The ER may be different, but I only recall one setscrew on my 10E on the side.

What does the bar rest on when driving the assembly out. What is the size of the bar? I guess all this will make sense to me when I get home and look inside the casing. Not sure what you mean about pushing and pulling the bearings when driving the assembly out with the bar

Which direction do you drive the assembly, from the rear forward or from inside the casing and pushing it out to the rear.

Can I ask here where to purchase the bearings?

Thanks,
Fred

fredsheldon wrote:What does the bar rest on when driving the assembly out. What is the size of the bar? I guess all this will make sense to me when I get home and look inside the casing. Not sure what you mean about pushing and pulling the bearings when driving the assembly out with the bar

Which direction do you drive the assembly, from the rear forward or from inside the casing and pushing it out to the rear.

Can I ask here where to purchase the bearings?

Thanks,
Fred

Not a 10ER, but the idea is the same.(thanks again Bill)

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You only need two, but this is the site.

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit487

Thanks JPG,

Ordered bearings and now understand driving with bar principle.

Need to locate those set screws tonight, guess they are buried under a layer of paint. I assume they will be on the sides at 9:00 and 3:00 o'clock.

Fred

The set screw will be on the back side. Looking at the picture in your first post, if the screw hole on top is at the 12:00 position, then the set screw will be at 9:00. There is not one at 3:00 (the "front" side).

The screw hole on top is for mounting the pulley guard and jig saw. But it also tightens down on the spacer between the bearings in the drive assembly.

ah, 90 degrees in first reply, not 180 I think I have it now. Thanks for all the assistance.

fredsheldon wrote:ah, 90 degrees in first reply, not 180 I think I have it now. Thanks for all the assistance.

I just remembered, the "10" quill bore is a 'through', not a blind hole like the MVII/M5/V. The skinny rod will not work! A big fat dowel would though!

Start by tapping and gradually increase force till it starts to move.