Page 1 of 2
Model 500 Rip Fence
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 6:52 pm
by 53superm
OK - now I am starting to use my new toy! I do have 2 issues, though that I need to ask about.
1. When ripping a board, as I am pushing the piece that is between the fence and the blade with a push stick - just after the wood clears the fence, the board pitches to the left (into the blade) which leaves a nasty groove in the trailing end of the board. I have a good coat of wax on the fence and the table - so things slide very nicely. I have never had this issue with any other table saw ever.
2. When trying to adjust the fence (you can see a pic of it in my other post about replacing the cord) when tightening, the far end of the fence travels inwards toward the blade allot. It's impossible to set the fence accurately. I took the fence off completely and it will be put away forever. I am reduced to using a board and two clamps - snugging down the clamps and tapping the board with a mallet to get a final adjustment. This is rather time consuming to say the least. Do I have an older style fence which is upgradeable? Is there a fix for this? Please tell me there is.
David
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:16 pm
by dgale
I'm not sure what type of SS you have - 500 or 10E/ER? I'll let others address what may be the problem with your existing rip fence, as I've never had any such troubles with my original 500 rip fence...I"m also not sure I totally understand the problem you are having - when you say "just after the wood clears the fence" - do you mean on the outfeed side of the table, and if so, how is it then contacting the blade, as the fence extends all the way across the table and obviously only protrudes through the center portion of the table (?)
In regard to an upgrade for the fence, assuming you have a model 500 with the original rip fence, Shopsmith sells the following upgraded rip fence:
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/500ripfenceupgrade.htm\
I just bought one a few weeks ago and have only used it a small amount but it definitely is much smoother and easier to move and clamp. I bought the same type of rip fence for my band saw as well, although I haven't had a chance to use it yet.
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:38 pm
by 53superm
Sorry for the confusion...I meant to say that - as soon as the wood clears the blade on the outfeed side of the blade - it pitches left. In doing so, it makes a gouge in the end of the piece of wood.
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:03 pm
by dgale
53superm wrote:Sorry for the confusion...I meant to say that - as soon as the wood clears the blade on the outfeed side of the blade - it pitches left. In doing so, it makes a gouge in the end of the piece of wood.
Is there any side-to-side movement of the rip fence when this is happening? I can't really visualize why this would occur.
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:09 pm
by pennview
Perhaps a set screw is the problem. Take a look at the base of the fence where the locking handle/knob is located. To either side of the handle/knob there are set screws that allow you to cant or skew the fence depending on which set screw is run in. For ripping you want those two set screws backed out so they do not touch the clamping bar that runs across the front of the saw table when you tighten the handle/knob to lock the fence in position.
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:16 pm
by reible
53superm wrote:OK - now I am starting to use my new toy! I do have 2 issues, though that I need to ask about.
1. When ripping a board, as I am pushing the piece that is between the fence and the blade with a push stick - just after the wood clears the fence, the board pitches to the left (into the blade) which leaves a nasty groove in the trailing end of the board. I have a good coat of wax on the fence and the table - so things slide very nicely. I have never had this issue with any other table saw ever.
There is another current thread about much the same issue you are writing about. That user caught a kick back and you were not to far from that or worse. There is also a video posted showing someone attempting to recreate a kickback and he darn near gave a demo of cutting his hand wide open. This is not something you want to have happen.
Check that thread out here:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11750
2. When trying to adjust the fence (you can see a pic of it in my other post about replacing the cord) when tightening, the far end of the fence travels inwards toward the blade allot. It's impossible to set the fence accurately. I took the fence off completely and it will be put away forever. I am reduced to using a board and two clamps - snugging down the clamps and tapping the board with a mallet to get a final adjustment. This is rather time consuming to say the least. Do I have an older style fence which is upgradeable? Is there a fix for this? Please tell me there is.
If this machine is new to you then cleaning and polishing is not the only thing you need to do to get it ready to use. I haven't been following what you might have been told but just in case this information was missed I cover it here.
The machine needs to have an alignment done. The idea is that the blade is the fixed point you align to. The headstock needs to be locked in place then the main table is adjusted to "square" based on the blade. The miter slots need to be parallel blade. The miter gauge needs to be at 90 degrees to the blade, the rip fence needs to be parallel to the miter slots. This is something you must do or at least check on. Who know what condition it was in when you got it????
I will not take the time to detail this procedure here but it is very likely from what you said that the rip fence needs to be adjusted. You are right to not use things until the alignment has been done.
It is equally clear that you are not using the splitter and blade guard. I don't know if you have them or not but you really need to invest in safety gear. Cheaper then emergence rooms by far and much less painful.
If you don't own the manual I'd get that too. The alignment procedure is included in that.
I'd also invest in Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone the bible of the shopsmith. Get one that covers your machine for maximum benefit, several editions exist.
An online current version is available:
http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/introduction.htm
David
There are also other online support videos that might be of interest, start here if you wish
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm
Also if you have not done the lubrication that will need to get done too. Also waxing of a lot of areas besides the table and fence.
Ed
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:13 pm
by sawmill
I have the same fence as yours. Mine will do the same thing and the way I have found to correct it is before I clamp it down I push it tight to the rail on the saw table and then clamp it and the far end does not move. I always double check the cut width to make sure it is right before making the first cut.
You say your board was to twist to the left at the end of the cut are you using a push stick. Where are you pushing on the end of the board at? If you push on the fence side that may make it twist to the left.
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 10:49 pm
by beeg
Sounds to me that your fence needs to be aligned. If I'd had bought that SS home, I'd be doing ALL of the alignments and maintenance.
Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 2:46 am
by rpd
53superm wrote:OK - now I am starting to use my new toy! I do have 2 issues, though that I need to ask about.
MKC Tools
2. When trying to adjust the fence (you can see a pic of it in my other post about replacing the cord) when tightening, the far end of the fence travels inwards toward the blade allot. It's impossible to set the fence accurately. I took the fence off completely and it will be put away forever. I am reduced to using a board and two clamps - snugging down the clamps and tapping the board with a mallet to get a final adjustment. This is rather time consuming to say the least. Do I have an older style fence which is upgradeable? Is there a fix for this? Please tell me there is.
David
I spotted this on the
MKC Tools web site,
Mark V Rip fence fix
It may be the solution to you problem with the fence not locking properly.
Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 1:50 pm
by JPG
Regardless of which version fence you have, correct use includes insuring the front is tight against the front rail. If other than a 520 fence the biasing set screw(s) need to be retracted so they do NOT contact the rail. The 'front' clamp should be secured first, then the rear clamp.
The original '500' fence does that sequence when the single knob is tightened.
The later fence versions have dual knobs/levers and the operator determines the sequence.
The 10E fence does not have a rear clamp. (unless an upgrade has been added)
Nothing will operate as intended unless the fence is properly aligned to the blade/table.
Critical alignments are blade to table(slots and 'vertical'), miter gauge to table(slots), and fence to table(slots).
Notice all depend upon table miter gauge slots parallel to blade.
I consider them to be as important as blade guards for safety considerations other than unintentional contact.