Headstock not working

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beernbourbon
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Location: Mariemont, Ohio

Headstock not working

Post by beernbourbon »

I'm new to the SS world, well sort of. Used one back in the early 80's in school shop. Now, I finally got a used Mark V Model 510. My problem is, the headstock won't turn. I plug it in, flip the switch, and it 'buzzes'. You know, the electric motor won't turn kind of buzz....and it looks like it's trying to turn, but just won't. With the machine unplugged, I can manually turn the shafts, no problem. What have I gotten into? I have the manual, just not looked at it, because I found this first, but that is next.
Thanks all!!
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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

First of all STOP turning the machine on if the motor only hums when you flip the switch. Doing so repeatedly WILL destroy the motor. The fact that you can turn the shafts by hand is a good sign. Remove the belt cover with the machine unplugged and turn the shaft by hand and check to see that the motor shaft turns and that the belts are on the pulleys.
The primary causes of motor humming is a bad start capacitor and/or a stuck start switch. The capacitor is the least concern. They rarely go bad. Try to put the machine in the drill press mode and TAP the casting lightly with a rubber mallet. You can also blow out the motor housing with some compressed air and try the motor again. Do not let it hum for more than one second. The humming tells me that the motor windings are still intact but the motor interior may require a good cleaning.
If this does not help return here for more diagnosing.
Bill V
P.S.
No "beernbourbon" while woodworking.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

I doubt the 'manual' will be helpful. This is not an area it delves into.

From your description, it is probably the start switch that is not 'closing'.

Tapping and blowing may help, but complete clean out is needed.

Not easy, but quite doable.;)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

When was the last time ya did maintenance?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

beeg wrote:When was the last time ya did maintenance?
Methinks he just acquired it.:)
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

JPG40504 wrote:Methinks he just acquired it.:)

And your point is? :D
IF that's true, the maintenance should have been done FIRST.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.

Bob
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

beeg wrote:And your point is? :D
IF that's true, the maintenance should have been done FIRST.
Agreed!

However he does not have a manual and probably does not realize the need.

He needs a working motor so as to have incentive to do the right stuff.;)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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beernbourbon
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Post by beernbourbon »

@wr2crk:
Thanks for the advice, I will do these things ASAP.
No, I did not leave it running. (evidently, my decades of working with power tools is not apparent by my one and only post :D ) I flipped the switch twice. Once in anticipation of hearing the beautiful hum of a well maintained machine, and the second in complete "analyze problem" mode, hence the knowledge of being able to turn the shafts manually.
....and no...lol... never beer OR bourbon when working with my machines, woodworking or otherwise. The handle is a carry-over from my other hobby; I brew my own beer and other libations.

to the other replies as well....thanks... I think....:)
Yes, just acquired.....as in Monday evening...the 10th.

No, no maintenance performed, as the previous owner is an engineering type (working with them every day, I feel they are more apt to maintain such things very well, but maybe not) and the exterior is quite clean and well maintained, so I thought I would be safe.

Yes, I do have the manual (sitting next to me here at work, in fact) but I jumped on here and joined, searched for my specific problem and not finding it so I posted right away, as I did not want to do the WRONG thing to this wonderful machine that I have waited nigh on 30 years to own.... Hey, I gave up a Ruger .44 magnum for it, waddya want guys?? :p
Trust me, waiting this long for this, and as is my nature in general, this machine will be in perfect order before I even ATTEMPT my first project. I have many other machines that can 'get it done' in the meantime.

Thanks, I'll keep y'all posted!
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dusty
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Headstock not working

Post by dusty »

There will those who disagree but if I was faced with your situation I would first isolate the motor from the drive train and check to see if the motor will run with no mechanical load.

To do this one only needs to remove the drive belt from the motor pulley and then exercise (with care) the motor.

If it does not start and run in this configuration, the problem is within the motor. Obviously, if it does run you are about to learn more about the mechanics of the headstock.

Do not attempt to change the speed control without the motor turning.

To remove the drive belt, the speed control must be at high speed or very near to it. You can get there by turning the drive shaft by hand while simultaneously turning the speed control toward high.

To accomplish this, I mount a sanding disk on the drive shaft and use it to turn the shaft (like a fly wheel). A saw blade and arbor can be used the same way but be careful. It can cut even when not spinning.

OF COURSE, THIS IS ALL DONE WITH THE POWER CORD UNPLUGGED!!

Once at the high speed setting, remove the belt cover to gain access to the belt and pulley. Simply remove the belt and continue the test.

My money is on the centrifugal switch assembly inside the motor. Furthermore, I'd bet that there is nothing wrong with the switch and that an accumulation of sawdust and crude is the culprit. Just handing the motor could "fix the problem". Some people suggest a rubber mallet to the motor housing does the trick.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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beernbourbon
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Post by beernbourbon »

ahhh....interesting tac.... I will check into that as well.
Now, if I can just get the garage temp above 30 degrees, I'd be a happy camper.
Thanks!
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