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This is my first attempt to use a bearing press and just want to verify that my method is acceptable. I used a bearing remover/separator from Harbor Freight to press the drive shaft assembly bearings on my new 10ER. I used the table fence rail as a centering guide to keep things level and flat. Is this the proper method of pressing bearing on a shaft using this tool?
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fredsheldon wrote:This is my first attempt to use a bearing press and just want to verify that my method is acceptable. I used a bearing remover/separator from Harbor Freight to press the drive shaft assembly bearings on my new 10ER. I used the table fence rail as a centering guide to keep things level and flat. Is this the proper method of pressing bearing on a shaft using this tool?
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The 10 drive shaft is extra complicated due to no center dimple on the shaft(quill bore all the way through).

Your use of a piece of bar stock(table rail) is good, but I would reverse it so the 'outside counter sink holes' are not dinged by the screw.

It would be better if the two spacers were parallel to the shaft(they are a bit wide at the top bar).

I believe the flat side of the bearing do-hicky(the split silver colored part) is against the bearing.

I assume you are installing one bearing at a time from opposite ends.(do not forget the spacer the second time!).

Lastly, make sure the bearing gets started square to the shaft.

P.S. Make sure the bearing 'do-hicky' does not scrape against the shaft(open it up slightly to create clearance).

Thanks for the suggestions. There is a point on the drive side of the turn screw which fits perfectly in the dimple of the bar which holds it in alignment which is why I have it positioned as I do. I will adjust the tie bars to be more parallel to the shaft. Both bearings need to be installed from the same side, there is a flange at one end of the shaft that prevents installation from that end. I'll give it a try tonight and see how it works out.

Hey all! I'm getting ready to put drive bearings on my 10e and had a question: When I'm pressing the new bearings on, there's a spacer between the two, does the spacer need to be really tight against the bearings or leave it so it can move a bit freely on its own? Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated! Thank you!

[quote="icaniwill"]Hey all! I'm getting ready to put drive bearings on my 10e and had a question: When I'm pressing the new bearings on, there's a spacer between the two, does the spacer need to be really tight against the bearings or leave it so it can move a bit freely on its own? Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated! Thank you!&#65279]

I would just snug them. The inner race must not be bound, but the outer race can be tight against the spacer.

JPG40504 wrote:I would just snug them. The inner race must not be bound, but the outer race can be tight against the spacer.

Thanks so much, JPG40504!!! Extremely helpful and appreciated!

[quote="icaniwill"]Hey all! I'm getting ready to put drive bearings on my 10e and had a question: When I'm pressing the new bearings on, there's a spacer between the two, does the spacer need to be really tight against the bearings or leave it so it can move a bit freely on its own? Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated! Thank you!&#65279]Are you speaking of space between the bearings (two bearings on the same shaft) or between the inner race and outer race of the bearing?

If you snug the outer race tight against the bore, is the inner race not free to turn by design? Asked a different way: Are the ends of the inner and outer races of a bearing each in the same plane?

I have always thought that the inner race was, by design, slightly recessed.

dusty wrote:If you snug the outer race tight against the bore, is the inner race not free to turn by design? Asked a different way: Are the ends of the inner and outer races of a bearing each in the same plane?

I have always thought that the inner race was, by design, slightly recessed.

Question is, does the inner race clear the spacer when the outer race butts against it. I believe there is clearance.