Saw Blades not going on spindle
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- Bronze Member
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- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 5:18 pm
- Location: Springfield, MO
Saw Blades not going on spindle
I became the owner of a shop smith that had not been used in years. I am trying to put saw blades on the spindle and they won't go on. I was wondering what to do for lubricant on the spindle. I have watched the DVD that came with my maintenance care package that I ordered from Shop Smith but it did not mention the spindle and how to maintain it.
Welcome to the forum! Make sure the saw arbor's set screw is backed out enough to fit on the spindle. You do have a saw blade arbor, don't you? If not, you will need to purchase either a 5/8" or 1 1/4" arbor for your blades if an arbor didn't come with your machine. You may also want to update your profile to add location to see if there may be someone who lives close to you with a Shopsmith who may be able to help.
BPR
BPR
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Welcome.
I do hope you are not attempting to put a saw blade with a 5/8" center hole directly on the quill shaft.
I do hope you are not attempting to put a saw blade with a 5/8" center hole directly on the quill shaft.

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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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- Bronze Member
- Posts: 4
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 5:18 pm
- Location: Springfield, MO
I have the arbor on the saw blade. I am having trouble with the blade with the arbor attached going on the spindle. I might not be using the right terminology since I am new to the shop smith. Basically I am trying to get the arbor onto the spindle and it is a very tight fit. Wondered what to use for lube on it so the saw blade with slip on and off easy when I switch between different blades.
Does the inside of the Arbor (where it fits over the spindle) perhaps have some rust accumulation, or other "crud" or debris in it? Does the spindle have any rust on it? Maybe it just needs a good cleaning.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35457
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Other than an occasional 'waxing' the quill shaft and arbors need no 'lubrication'.
The fit is fairly tight, so any rust or a burr will make changeovers difficult. The arbors etc. should not require much effort to slide on/off.
The fit is fairly tight, so any rust or a burr will make changeovers difficult. The arbors etc. should not require much effort to slide on/off.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:Other than an occasional 'waxing' the quill shaft and arbors need no 'lubrication'.
The fit is fairly tight, so any rust or a burr will make changeovers difficult. The arbors etc. should not require much effort to slide on/off.
In fact, mine make a pleasing 'pop' sound when you take off the arbor or other attachment...
It is definitely a machined tolerance fit between the arbor and the main shaft
Geo
- fredsheldon
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:31 pm
- Location: The Woodlands, Texas
My arbor and spindle has such a tight fit that air pressure builds up as I attempt to push on the saw blade. It acts like a spring is inside the arbor and I have to keep pressing it on until the air slowly leaks out.
Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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That is the way it should be and you don't want to do anything that will change that. If, for example, you burnish the shaft, the arbor may slide on more easily but doing this might also introduce some runout (wobble). I burnished both of mine to eliminate a bit of corrosion and I regret it.fredsheldon wrote:My arbor and spindle has such a tight fit that air pressure builds up as I attempt to push on the saw blade. It acts like a spring is inside the arbor and I have to keep pressing it on until the air slowly leaks out.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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520, Bandsaw, Beltsander, Delta Drill Press, Delta Lathe, Craftsman Planner/Jointer, Delta Planner, Mini "Greenie" Shorty 500
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520, Bandsaw, Beltsander, Delta Drill Press, Delta Lathe, Craftsman Planner/Jointer, Delta Planner, Mini "Greenie" Shorty 500
Being a VETERAN is an honor
Being a GRANDPA is priceless