Mark VII Motor Reassembly

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:31 pm

Starting with the armature. I am not sure of the correct placement of the plastic washers/shields. They may have been intended to be on the outside of the bearings to act as a dust shield. I placed them as shown in the second pix. AIRI that was where one of them was. I am not the first to be into this motor, so as found is suspect anyway.
[ATTACH]19842[/ATTACH]

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There is a goof here. The output bearing retaining collar is missing. I had to later remove it all(press off/press on) to add it to the mix.

[ATTACH]19843[/ATTACH]

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Pulling the output bearing on was pretty straight forward. There are two gotchas on this armature shaft though. The ends of both shaft ends are 5/8" which is slightly smaller than the shaft at the bearing id location. Make sure the bearing puller is open sufficiently to clear that part of the shaft.

[ATTACH]19844[/ATTACH]

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Setting up for the vac end bearing was problematic.

[ATTACH]19845[/ATTACH]

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A crude 'solution' but it worked. I have since acquired 3/8-16 couplings for the 'extensions'.

[ATTACH]19846[/ATTACH]

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This thread is linked to from https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11984

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jan 07, 2013 5:50 pm

The armature fully assembled(sorta-the retaining ring is still absent)

[attach]19847[/attach]

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The start switch board mounting hardware includes 3 washers between the board and the end cap. The lock washer and nut are in depressions on the outside of the cap.

[attach]19848[/attach]

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The start switch and end cap bearing spring are lubricated with lithium grease. The washer goes in the cap cavity before the spring. Lithium grease is what I have on hand.

[attach]19849[/attach]

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When replacing the vac end cap, do watch for pinched wiring.

[attach]19850[/attach]

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Finally align the end cap and motor shell 'scratches'.

[attach]19851[/attach]

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JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:01 pm

As mention previously, this should not be left over!

[ATTACH]19852[/ATTACH]

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After removing all that output end stuff and adding the retainer and repressing etc., it can be used to attach the output end cap. Screws from the outside resting in depressions also.

[ATTACH]19853[/ATTACH]

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No pix, but the long screws that secure the end caps to the shell are added next after aligning the output end cap with the 'scratches'.

Now what to do about the rubbing sheave.

[ATTACH]19854[/ATTACH]

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When I determine 'the solution' I will 'continue'.

I wanted to get 'reassembly' thread begun so at least this is a start to be completed later.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 4:27 am

After simmering for a week(two?) I finally decided upon the 'fix'. Since the groove was close to the shaft od, the fix needed to be 5/8" id. It also needed to be thin so as to not space the fan sheave out from the motor.

The 'fix' was a 5/8" retaining ring. It is only about 0.030" thick.

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So next the fan sheave is attached and the set screw very tightly secured. I think they stay if the set screw is secured properly and sufficiently tight. However a little blue locktite won't hurt. The key must be located so the set screw gets a good bite onto it.

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Next the floating sheave is installed. A liberal application of oil at this time is proper. I have my misgivings about the PO's alteration.

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Spring and cap ready to be compressed and secured with the retaining ring. I am fortunate to be able to do that with only the retaining ring pliers for tools. Trick is to never let go until ring is fully seated. If plan goes south, release spring tension slowly!

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Motor itself is essentially done, but this model has much else in/attached to the motor pan.

: spring on.jpg (232.36 KiB) Viewed 5338 times

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 5:10 am

The 'front' of the motor pan has a model plate, key lock, and the power/direction switch mounted to it.

The model plate is secured with two small screws. Shopsmith Inc. and RLF Tools Inc. are not the only ones that confuse model 'numbers' with both Roman numerals/'Arabic' numbers. At least they did not include both on the same unit as Magna America did! The plate says "7" but everywhere else it is referred to as a "VII".

[ATTACH]20020[/ATTACH]

The lock has two flats that prevent it rotating in the double d shaped hole. The moving part also has double d flats.

[ATTACH]20021[/ATTACH]

The cam plate is secured to the lock core with a nut. A wave washer spaces the plate away from the lock base. The nut must not be over tightened or the lock core will not rotate.

[ATTACH]20022[/ATTACH]

The cam plate rocks under the switch button shafts. The cam plate end must be rotated out from under the switch shaft to allow the switch to operate. This pix shows the cam plate in the off/locked position that prevents both the forward and reverse switch buttons being depressed. It also shows the plate 'offset' facing the inside.

[ATTACH]20023[/ATTACH]

Got lucky! Got both original keys! Third one is a copy and will be the 'active' one. The lock is shown in the forward run position. The cam plate is rotated so the forward switch to the right can be activated.

[ATTACH]20024[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 5:53 am

Moving on to the power/direction switch. The power switch mounting holes were deformed by the mounting nut.

[ATTACH]20025[/ATTACH]

I added a flat washer under the nut. The switch is mounted on spacers and two screws. I have since added ext tooth lock washers. I had hoped to find kep nuts, but with no hardware store near by. .

[ATTACH]20026[/ATTACH]

Front view of mounted switch. You can see the cam plate in off/locked position.

[ATTACH]20027[/ATTACH]

Last a hole plug.

[ATTACH]20028[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 6:12 am

At last we mount the motor. The Mark VII differs from the Mark 5/V as the mounting brackets use 2 of the 4 screws on the front. The screws are still #3 Phillips.

[ATTACH]20029[/ATTACH]

Connecting the motor wiring to the switch. A jumper is hiding someplace in this state. I may have to make another one.

[ATTACH]20030[/ATTACH]

Motor on and running in reverse. Note the 'iluminated' button.

[ATTACH]20031[/ATTACH]

Next the 'vacuum'.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 8:27 am

JPG, thanks for posting and keep up the good work. The pictures certainly are extremely useful for anyone wanting to restore a Mark VII.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 12:32 pm

pennview wrote:JPG, thanks for posting and keep up the good work. The pictures certainly are extremely useful for anyone wanting to restore a Mark VII.

That is what I thought as well. There are not many out there and even fewer restorable due to the infamous plastic cam and gear rack and other plastic parts.

I apologize for the poor quality of the pix above(and below). I did not realize it until edit time. The lighting was either inadequate or too much or shadowy.

I 'chose' to not take it apart and 're-photograph'.

Now if the fresh paint were not so 'shiney'.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jan 25, 2013 1:17 pm

Moving on to the 'vacuum' etc.

The motor shaft extends from both ends of the motor pan. This is the 'front'(towards tailstock end). The shaft dings were 'provided by a PO to I assume settle down a wobbling impeller(makes taking it on/off almost a pita). Step one reattach the retaining clip that serves as a stop on the shaft,

[ATTACH]20035[/ATTACH]

The vacuum blower base is essentially a shaped flat plate.(I did not have any black paint). The large screws are started only to provide positioning at this time. The smaller screws are tightened down.

[ATTACH]20036[/ATTACH]

Next comes a flat washer on top of the stop ring.

[ATTACH]20037[/ATTACH]

Then the impeller.

[ATTACH]20038[/ATTACH]

Then a smaller flat washer and ext tooth lock washer.

[ATTACH]20039[/ATTACH]

I does not show in the pix, but, the shaft at some time was dropped and the very end of the threads were slightly mangled. Had to chase the threads on both the shaft and the nut(since I first tried to force the nut on). 3/8-24.