I have a 4" Jointer that needs a tuneup but I don't know the first thing about it. Does this site have any tutorials for dummies on the subject? I need to remove and replace the knives but am reluctant to do so for fear of never getting the machine back in running shape. I'd take any and all suggestions.
Thanks,
Oakcutter
4" Jointer Maintenance
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- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Since it is a jointer, there isn't a whole lot to do to it. Make sure the bearings are good, the blades are sharp and wax the tables.
Removing the blades is relatively simple and putting then back is almost as easy. Do not worry about it being difficult. Take your time. Clean the socket heads on all the screws that secure the blades and the adjusting screws. Make sure you have a good allen wrench. The one thing you do not want to do is round out the sockets on those screws. Insert the allen wrench all the way.
If the screws have not been moved for a long time, they could be very tight.
The one measurement that is critical to good operation is blade height. All three blades must be at the same height and equal across the length of the blade. I measure both ends and the center (all three blades).
Oh yeah, one more thing. Make sure that the in feed and out feed tables are co-planar (same height and flat from end to end with no twists (warps) in the tables). Once the alignment is done, you can set the depth of cut by adjusting the in feed table. I keep my at about 1/16" as a default depth and seldom change it.
Removing the blades is relatively simple and putting then back is almost as easy. Do not worry about it being difficult. Take your time. Clean the socket heads on all the screws that secure the blades and the adjusting screws. Make sure you have a good allen wrench. The one thing you do not want to do is round out the sockets on those screws. Insert the allen wrench all the way.
If the screws have not been moved for a long time, they could be very tight.
The one measurement that is critical to good operation is blade height. All three blades must be at the same height and equal across the length of the blade. I measure both ends and the center (all three blades).
Oh yeah, one more thing. Make sure that the in feed and out feed tables are co-planar (same height and flat from end to end with no twists (warps) in the tables). Once the alignment is done, you can set the depth of cut by adjusting the in feed table. I keep my at about 1/16" as a default depth and seldom change it.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange