I bought an older used (steel table) bandsaw this weekend and have a couple questions I'm hoping to find answers to. First, when I took the cover off, I noticed the blade was tracking on the very front edge (closest to you) of the wheels, and I also noticed the blade was quite aways away from both of the non adjustable guide rollers. After I adjusted the one adjustable guide roller as described in the owner's manual, the blade guard wouldn't stay in place when raised to a higher position. If I adjusted the guide roller so the blade guard would stay in place, when I lowered it, it would really load the guide roller and push it away from the other two guide rollers (probably what the previous owner was dealing with). Is it likely the "rod" for the blade guard is bent, or am I doing something wrong in adjusting the roller?
Second, I noticed if I grab the bottom of the upper wheel and push/pull, I can achieve some movement in the wheel...about 1/8". Is that normal, or is the bearing/bushing worn?
And finally, I noticed that some of the bandaw accessories in the catalog won't work with the steel table. Is the aluminum table a direct bolt on?
Thanks a bunch for any help you can offer.
Bandsaw Questions
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First welcome,
The new table is a direct replacement, on the Shopsmith.com site you can see the various upgrades that will take you from where you are to a brand new machine. My blade tracks almost at the back of the wheel and I believe this is correct, I get no wobble. If you search here there is another recent thread addressing the alignment issue you raise.
The new table is a direct replacement, on the Shopsmith.com site you can see the various upgrades that will take you from where you are to a brand new machine. My blade tracks almost at the back of the wheel and I believe this is correct, I get no wobble. If you search here there is another recent thread addressing the alignment issue you raise.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Funny you should ask...I just yesterday performed an alignment of my new-to-me 1955 vintage SS bandsaw after installing new day-glo urethane tires.eggy wrote:I bought an older used (steel table) bandsaw this weekend and have a couple questions I'm hoping to find answers to. First, when I took the cover off, I noticed the blade was tracking on the very front edge (closest to you) of the wheels, and I also noticed the blade was quite aways away from both of the non adjustable guide rollers. After I adjusted the one adjustable guide roller as described in the owner's manual, the blade guard wouldn't stay in place when raised to a higher position. If I adjusted the guide roller so the blade guard would stay in place, when I lowered it, it would really load the guide roller and push it away from the other two guide rollers (probably what the previous owner was dealing with). Is it likely the "rod" for the blade guard is bent, or am I doing something wrong in adjusting the roller?
Second, I noticed if I grab the bottom of the upper wheel and push/pull, I can achieve some movement in the wheel...about 1/8". Is that normal, or is the bearing/bushing worn?
And finally, I noticed that some of the bandaw accessories in the catalog won't work with the steel table. Is the aluminum table a direct bolt on?
Thanks a bunch for any help you can offer.
I do have about 1/8" push-pull movement on the upper wheel; I think it is normal, given the position of the fiber washer and slot for the circlip. The bandsaw blade loading should push the wheel against the rear bearing. So nothing wrong there.
As far as alignment goes, get yourself a manual if you don't have one. The instructions aren't the best but they are OK. The wheel tracking bearings (just below the upper wheel on the left and just above the lower wheel on the right) can only be moved side to side, and they should be centered on the blade when tensioned. The guide roller on the blade guard is the one that really needs to be adjusted carefully; on mine, it was a good 1/8" or more behind the blade, so some adjustment was in order. There are two locknut-held screws which adjust the in-out position; it sounds like you've adjusted those and found the adjustment did not track over guard height position. If you think about it, by turning one screw in and the other out, you can tilt the bar relative to its vertical travel, so you can get the position of the bearing to track the blade as it is raised and lowered. When you do this, you may have to adjust the screw (on the left side of the adjustment plate) to fix the tension which locks the bar in place. I had to fiddle with it a while, but now I have that bearing so it barely touches the blade over the entire vertical travel of the guard, and my blade tracks beautifully on the wheels.
Just think about how all those screws are pushing on the bar and it should become clear. Good luck!
John Mallick
Dripping Springs, TX
Beginning Woodworker
Passable Barbecue'er
Dripping Springs, TX
Beginning Woodworker
Passable Barbecue'er
- dusty
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Bandsaw Question
eggy,
The blade on the Shopsmith bandsaw tends to track toward the backside of the wheels centerline. The blade should ride against the left hand guide bushing; this establishes the rearward movement of the blade on the wheels.
I would suggest that you adjust all of the other bushing so as to take them completely out of play; move the blade guard to its upward most position.
Exercise some Special Caution when you turn the bandsaw on. With the guides all disengaged (except for the left one), the blade is free to go where ever it might.
Tension the blade just a bit less than normal until you see where the blade tracks.
Turn the bandsaw on and find where the blade tracks naturally.
It should track toward the rearward side of the centerline on the wheels (with no loading).
If this happens, then you are ready to align the other bushings. I find the procedure in the manual to be quite definitive. The adjustments are tedious and especially so if they are way out.
The 1/8" front to back movement in the top wheel is close to being excessive and may indicate that you need a new upper wheel bearing but I don't believe it should cause any major concern right now (if the blade tracks properly).
The blade on the Shopsmith bandsaw tends to track toward the backside of the wheels centerline. The blade should ride against the left hand guide bushing; this establishes the rearward movement of the blade on the wheels.
I would suggest that you adjust all of the other bushing so as to take them completely out of play; move the blade guard to its upward most position.
Exercise some Special Caution when you turn the bandsaw on. With the guides all disengaged (except for the left one), the blade is free to go where ever it might.
Tension the blade just a bit less than normal until you see where the blade tracks.
Turn the bandsaw on and find where the blade tracks naturally.
It should track toward the rearward side of the centerline on the wheels (with no loading).
If this happens, then you are ready to align the other bushings. I find the procedure in the manual to be quite definitive. The adjustments are tedious and especially so if they are way out.
The 1/8" front to back movement in the top wheel is close to being excessive and may indicate that you need a new upper wheel bearing but I don't believe it should cause any major concern right now (if the blade tracks properly).
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Thanks
Thanks Paul for pointing me to the other thread. After reading through that, I realized what Johnm pointed out. I'm pretty sure I just need to work at it a little longer.
Boy...I sure wish I found this table while the Christmas pricing was still in effect. I found the old catalog and found an upgrade kit that Paul mentioned. It was quite a bit cheaper than they are now. I think I'll hold out and see if anything comes up during maybe the Father's Day sale (if they do it again this year).
Thanks for everyone's help. I'll get out to try an align it some more in the next couple of days.
Boy...I sure wish I found this table while the Christmas pricing was still in effect. I found the old catalog and found an upgrade kit that Paul mentioned. It was quite a bit cheaper than they are now. I think I'll hold out and see if anything comes up during maybe the Father's Day sale (if they do it again this year).
Thanks for everyone's help. I'll get out to try an align it some more in the next couple of days.