Truck Rack

[frank81]

I'm having to pull a quick project ahead of getting the ER operational and building storage in the garage.

I recently refurbished some canoes and want to build a ladder/canoe rack for my truck rather then dent the roof or spend $500+ for a store bought metal one. Actually build two so we can have one waiting to go at the end of the float rather than shuttle back. I've found examples scattered around the internet, but most of it is built by canoe guys so contruction is not their expertise.

Looking to get your guys take on lumber size, joints, etc. The basic setup is just a box, here is one of the better examples http://howdyyadewit.blogspot.com/2011/0 ... r-and.html. However, I want to be able to carry 3 or more canoes (17ft, ~85 lbs each) so I would need to either go wider than the interior of the truck box (for 3) or go vertical (for 4). I'd also like to be able to disassemble/reassemble for storage which I think means going with threaded inserts?

Just being overly cautious and asking the experts, considering its being used on public roads and too much shadetree engineering could result in an expensive mistake.

[terrydowning]

That looks to be serviceable. Although for more than 2 canoes you would probably be best served with a canoe trailer. Google "canoe trailers"

2 is pretty much max width, going taller may be a problem although probably not too much weight, it could be difficult getting a canoe up that high and the added sail surface up that high could prove to be a very exciting drive.

I would use 2 x 4 stock rather than 2 x 6. I don't think you need to bother with pressure treated. Just seal up the wood with a good quality outdoor varnish. You did mention that you want to disassemble. For a really sharp look you could go with redwood or cedar, these are naturally rot and bug resistant. Cost could be an issue here.

The general plan on the linked page seems decent if a bit over built. To improve the appearance and strength, I would make the following modifications to the plan. Use 2 x 4 as stated. Instead of the long plane of the wood running perpendicular to the truck body, I would run it parallel to the truck body. I have holes in the top rail of my truck so I would fashion a bracket to secure the rack to those. (A piece of all thread bent into a hook the hook attaches to the stake hole and the threaded rod goes through the riser and is is secured to the side of the truck.) Use "Half Lap" joints to join the stretchers (length wise connector frame to frame) to the frames and use carriage bolts to fasten. This would improve the rigidity of the structure and allow for a take down assembly that is easily removable.

I would also do half lap joints and carriage bolts on the rails for the frames. The rails should sit slightly below the stretchers. This allows the stretcher to serve as a side rail and tie down point for the canoes.

If you have 2 trucks and three canoes, a cradle with tie downs could be fashioned to fit in the bed of one truck to serve as a hasty portage back to the other truck for final loading and the drive home. It would stick out the back significantly but it's an idea. This depends on local traffic laws on how far something can stick out behind your truck and how willing someone is to drive like that. I personally don't like things sticking out more than a couple of feet. I'd be thinking trailer personally.

Just some ideas, enjoy the canoeing!!

[saminmn]

To add a 3rd or 4th canoe going up, I would use a pair of 2x4 or 2x6 boards about 6' apart across the hulls/keels of the first 2 canoes and secured to the rails of the main rack. These boards would have notches cut for the gunnels of next layer of canoes to sit in. If it was me, I'd use 2x6s and cut hull shaped contours into the bottom 2” or 3” then pad with thick felt or a layer of carpet.

This whole thing is farther off the ground than I could deal with. But this layer would not take much to try out, just a couple of 2x4s and 3 canoes.

[frank81]

That looks to be serviceable. Although for more than 2 canoes you would probably be best served with a canoe trailer. Google "canoe trailers"

2 is pretty much max width, going taller may be a problem although probably not too much weight, it could be difficult getting a canoe up that high and the added sail surface up that high could prove to be a very exciting drive.

I would use 2 x 4 stock rather than 2 x 6. I don't think you need to bother with pressure treated. Just seal up the wood with a good quality outdoor varnish. You did mention that you want to disassemble. For a really sharp look you could go with redwood or cedar, these are naturally rot and bug resistant. Cost could be an issue here.

The general plan on the linked page seems decent if a bit over built. To improve the appearance and strength, I would make the following modifications to the plan. Use 2 x 4 as stated. Instead of the long plane of the wood running perpendicular to the truck body, I would run it parallel to the truck body. I have holes in the top rail of my truck so I would fashion a bracket to secure the rack to those. (A piece of all thread bent into a hook the hook attaches to the stake hole and the threaded rod goes through the riser and is is secured to the side of the truck.) Use "Half Lap" joints to join the stretchers (length wise connector frame to frame) to the frames and use carriage bolts to fasten. This would improve the rigidity of the structure and allow for a take down assembly that is easily removable.

I would also do half lap joints and carriage bolts on the rails for the frames. The rails should sit slightly below the stretchers. This allows the stretcher to serve as a side rail and tie down point for the canoes.

If you have 2 trucks and three canoes, a cradle with tie downs could be fashioned to fit in the bed of one truck to serve as a hasty portage back to the other truck for final loading and the drive home. It would stick out the back significantly but it's an idea. This depends on local traffic laws on how far something can stick out behind your truck and how willing someone is to drive like that. I personally don't like things sticking out more than a couple of feet. I'd be thinking trailer personally.

Just some ideas, enjoy the canoeing!!

Thanks for the advice, excellent suggestions. Just a couple questions.

"Instead of the long plane of the wood running perpendicular to the truck body, I would run it parallel to the truck body" Are you referring to the vertical posts of the frame? Meaning rotate 90 degrees?

If I use half lap joints for the stretchers and the rails, and the stretchers are above the rails, how much space would you put between the joints?

The canoes are only 15" deep (Old Town Discovery 169), my thought on vertical was adding a set of rails and stretchers similar to the 10 canoe trailers that outfitters use (which are really high). Wouldn't add more than 2 ft, though it may mean a staged assembly and load process when putting 4 on. I'm trying to avoid a trailer because it just won't fit a lot of places we are going, and the reason I want to build two is some of our trips are going to be an hour or two by road to get back so it would save $$$ on gas.

I do like saminmn's idea for a wider board with notches for the rail.

[dforeman]

Design aside, one thought I had is to transport the canoes up on their side (gunnel). An outfitter I once took paddling classes from used to haul his boats this way to get as many onto his racks as possible. Of course you have to make sure they are tied down well. But, essentially they just stick up a little higher and lean against each other for support.

I typically haul my 16 foot Grauman in the back of my truck bed with a flag. It sticks out. But as long as you are conscious of it being back there, it is no problem. But of course, I would check your local regs on this. Here in Maryland we can have objects out past the tailgate if we have a brightly colored flag/ribbon on the end as a warning.

[frank81]

Design aside, one thought I had is to transport the canoes up on their side (gunnel). An outfitter I once took paddling classes from used to haul his boats this way to get as many onto his racks as possible. Of course you have to make sure they are tied down well. But, essentially they just stick up a little higher and lean against each other for support.

I typically haul my 16 foot Grauman in the back of my truck bed with a flag. It sticks out. But as long as you are conscious of it being back there, it is no problem. But of course, I would check your local regs on this. Here in Maryland we can have objects out past the tailgate if we have a brightly colored flag/ribbon on the end as a warning.

Neither of those are stable enough for pulling poly boats, they weigh more and slide a lot more than aluminum even when tied down. The rack also leaves me bed space, some of our float trips are multi-day camping/fishing/hunting excursions so there is a lot of gear to bring along.