Sawdust Session Ideas
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Sawdust Session Ideas
Reading a book on Cabinet making, the first project was written by none other then Nick Engler. It was a corner cabinet and is quite complex if you ask me as it has lots of different things that make the cabinet up. It's quite an interesting project and I've learned some techniques just by reading it.
Plus there are a bunch of other projects with other interesting tips I discovered.
The one thing that I'm going to try to do is to make my own Cove using the examples in the book, but seeing it work in a Sawdust Session would be great.
And perhaps Shopsmith could make a new accessory for cutting coves on the Shopsmith. Rockler has one, but frankly I'd rather give my $$ to SS rather than Rocker, although I like both companies.
-Tim
Plus there are a bunch of other projects with other interesting tips I discovered.
The one thing that I'm going to try to do is to make my own Cove using the examples in the book, but seeing it work in a Sawdust Session would be great.
And perhaps Shopsmith could make a new accessory for cutting coves on the Shopsmith. Rockler has one, but frankly I'd rather give my $$ to SS rather than Rocker, although I like both companies.
-Tim
You really don't need to buy such a jig. Two boards clamped to the saw table will do the job nicely. I saw the jig sold by Rockler, and thought at the time, WHY?
Keep in mind that before angleling a board for a cove cut, you need to first saw out (hog) most of the material. The cove cut with the saw should take only a very small part of the wood at a time. Never over 1/8". I use a guide of 1/16" at a pass. There is always time to make additional passes.
Have you seen the charts giving a combination table/saw tilting vs. angle of approach to the blade? Different combinations of tilt and angle will yield different depth/width results.
Yes, Excellent Idea!! This would make a good Sawdust Session!:)

Keep in mind that before angleling a board for a cove cut, you need to first saw out (hog) most of the material. The cove cut with the saw should take only a very small part of the wood at a time. Never over 1/8". I use a guide of 1/16" at a pass. There is always time to make additional passes.
Have you seen the charts giving a combination table/saw tilting vs. angle of approach to the blade? Different combinations of tilt and angle will yield different depth/width results.
Yes, Excellent Idea!! This would make a good Sawdust Session!:)
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- a1gutterman
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I have seen that jig and I too think that it would make a good Sawdust Session! Nick is so good about doing the math, etc., that I bet he could even come up with a chart showing what angles and tilts produce what width/depth cove.

Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
I had found a Visual Basic app plus an excel spreadsheet both of which can can the width and thickness of your board. Then you can determine how much of a cove you want by having the saw the indicated depth plus the all important angle to push it through.
In fact the book that I was referring to actually does show two pieces of wood clamped on either side of the blade and the book mentions a technique of looking down with you eye as you set you saw depth which would determine how much of a cove. Not as mathmatical as the spreadsheet or the .EXE I found, but it is possible making them with just what you have laying around the shop. Then they have you do a couple of 45 degree miter cuts and presto, you have cove crown molding. Beats spending big bucks on a premade molding.
I think it would be cool to actually see in action, plus the cost of that Rockler jig is rather high (in my opinion) since the return would be pretty low - I don't plan on making them every day - just now and then for projects.
In fact the book that I was referring to actually does show two pieces of wood clamped on either side of the blade and the book mentions a technique of looking down with you eye as you set you saw depth which would determine how much of a cove. Not as mathmatical as the spreadsheet or the .EXE I found, but it is possible making them with just what you have laying around the shop. Then they have you do a couple of 45 degree miter cuts and presto, you have cove crown molding. Beats spending big bucks on a premade molding.
I think it would be cool to actually see in action, plus the cost of that Rockler jig is rather high (in my opinion) since the return would be pretty low - I don't plan on making them every day - just now and then for projects.
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I would like to see something about dovetailing, halfblind, through and sliding or french dovetails. I know Nick mentioned something about making half blind dovetails on the overarm pin router. I would love to see it. I have made halfblind dovetails with my joint-matic and the opr would do it in a similar way. Also more with the bandsaw. I made through dovetails with my ss bandsaw and a jig.

Keep 'em coming, folks. We're listening.
With all good wishes,
With all good wishes,
Nick Engler
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
http://www.workshopcompanion.com
OK, here's some more ideas:
1. Bandsaw boxes, particularly design elements (recommendations for thicknesses of top, bottom, and sides, what's the best way to cut out the middle so the resulting glue line will be hidden, etc.)
2. Bandsaw adjustment/maintenance- I know Nick gave good written instructions on bearing adjustments in a previous thread but I'm one of those people who learn it best if I can watch it being done.
3. the Incra Fence system that SS sells- Rick demo-ed it in a TA, making dovetails, I think, and it looked great, but the whole concept was way beyond my understanding at that point. What can you do with it that you can't with the regular fence?
4. the Kreg bandsaw fence and accessories- What can you do with it/them that you can't with the regular fence?
5. discussion of various joints, their strengths and weaknesses, and the types of projects each are best suited for.
6. SS historical info- there's so many questions on this forum about which model someone has, how can you tell if it has been upgraded, etc., that I think a visual show-and-tell would be useful. Also a good selling point if the advantages of each upgrade path are clearly stated.
7. the SS miniature hollowing tools- use of and how to sharpen them
OK, that's enough rambling from me for a while. Thanks, Nick and Drew and the rest of the Sawdust Sessions team!
Gary
1. Bandsaw boxes, particularly design elements (recommendations for thicknesses of top, bottom, and sides, what's the best way to cut out the middle so the resulting glue line will be hidden, etc.)
2. Bandsaw adjustment/maintenance- I know Nick gave good written instructions on bearing adjustments in a previous thread but I'm one of those people who learn it best if I can watch it being done.
3. the Incra Fence system that SS sells- Rick demo-ed it in a TA, making dovetails, I think, and it looked great, but the whole concept was way beyond my understanding at that point. What can you do with it that you can't with the regular fence?
4. the Kreg bandsaw fence and accessories- What can you do with it/them that you can't with the regular fence?
5. discussion of various joints, their strengths and weaknesses, and the types of projects each are best suited for.
6. SS historical info- there's so many questions on this forum about which model someone has, how can you tell if it has been upgraded, etc., that I think a visual show-and-tell would be useful. Also a good selling point if the advantages of each upgrade path are clearly stated.
7. the SS miniature hollowing tools- use of and how to sharpen them
OK, that's enough rambling from me for a while. Thanks, Nick and Drew and the rest of the Sawdust Sessions team!
Gary
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Okay, here it comes.....Nick wrote:Keep 'em coming, folks. We're listening.
Some of these may take more than one session, or perhaps part of several sessions. If you already have done any of these, please accept my apology in advance, as I missed the first 9 Sawdust Sessions.
1) I agree with greitz: a session on fancy dovetails using the Incra Ultimate Fence/Router System making perhaps
A) machinist or other tool box
B) jewelry box
2) You demonstrated, in one Sawdust Session, the base of a small table. How about a table top, using the bisciut cutter and the double bar clamps?
3) Overhead-pull-down-storage-bins, perhaps designed for SPT's or whatever
4) The under the SS cabinet
5) A sharpening session in every sawdust session until you run out:
A) jointer blades and setting them correctly in the jointer
B) planer blades and setting them correctly in the planer
C) lathe chisels-a different one each session plus show what that chisel does
D) using the 3 different sanders and the grinder for sharpening the same tool
6) How to install the lift assist
7) How to use the shaper
8) How to use the mortise and tenon pkg
9) How to use the molder
10) Applying the sandpaper to the disk (including cleaning the old paper off)(also including the velcro system)
11) Setting up the various sanding stations
A) the disk
B) the belt
C) the strip
D) the oscillating drum sander
E) the Sand Flea
F) the conical disk
G) the lathe
12) How to set up/use the lathe duplicator
13) A session(s) on using all the different rules and layout tools
14) A session(s) on each of the different clamping methods
15) A session on the stop collar
16) Sessions on each of the "17 most frequently ordered" service part replacements
That should keep you busy for awhile:D .
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.