Goldie Lower Floating Sheaves

tgamel · Post by **tgamel** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:00 am

Although the 1962 Goldie I just purchased and the 1983 Mark V I have look very similar. When it comes to oiling the lower floating sheaves, the spring on the 1962 is compressed quite a bit more, and I could not actually spread apart the springs to find the hole for lubrication as shown in my users manual for my 1983 Mark V. To be honest I blind lubricated, but am concerned that I make not have gotten any oil in the access hole on the shaft. In the picture, there is a large metal end piece that is compressing the spring, not having a 1962 manual, I did not know if I had to remove this piece or not to properly lubricate the sheave.

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Any advice from anyone who has a older Mark V or a Goldie on the best way to lubricate the lower floating sheaves would be appreciated. Thanks

Todd

mountainbreeze · Post by **mountainbreeze** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 10:00 am

I'm not sure what the cover is but to decompress the spring to the maximum amount, turn the speed to maximum. In your picture, it looks like the speed is set low.

tgamel · Post by **tgamel** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 10:23 am

mountainbreeze wrote:I'm not sure what the cover is but to decompress the spring to the maximum amount, turn the speed to maximum. In your picture, it looks like the speed is set low.

Yes, I have it set to slow, as I have learned you should always set it for slow before turning it off. The (1983) manual does mention changing the speed to lubricate, but if this works than I will do that. Never had to cover off before when running the motor so I never noticed the change in spring compression. Thanks for the info.

Todd

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 11:34 am

So is yours a 3/4hp motor?

It needs to be set to fast so the spring will be extended(floating sheave closed fully.

The oil hole will still be partially hidden, and a screwdriver may need to be used to separate the spring. FWIW, the shaft is likely visible(accessible) from the top down between the belt. That is where the oil needs to be(on the shaft).

IIWM, the belt would come off(fast sc setting) so that the sheave can be moved manually to distribute the oil. Do Not Let IT Slip!!!!!;)

Finally It the sheave has any tendency to stick, It would come off for a thorough cleaning/lubing.(gotta love that spring and clip

:eek::D:D)

P.S. Could you verify the bench tube od? It is either 1 7/8" or 1 3/4". TIA

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:20 pm

I only apply oil when the speed control is set to FAST. Otherwise neither the control sheave bearing or the motor shaft will get lubricated. Do not be afraid to use too much oil. I oil using many drops of oil and then cycle from FAST to SLOW and back several times. Then reoil again. Too little oil is the major cause of internal headstock problems. The zoom spout oiler really works well for the headstock lubrication. I actually stick the oil spout tube up under the motor end shield (small screwdriver) and spurt away to get the motor shaft end and key.

If the motor stalls when starting at FAST, then use the sanding disk to get back toward the SLOW end and try starting the motor. I never found any headstock I was working on that would not start at FAST without any thing attached to the quill or drive sleeve shafts. This was on a 15 AMP circuit for many years.

tgamel · Post by **tgamel** » Tue Apr 16, 2013 4:09 pm

[quote="JPG40504"]So is yours a 3/4hp motor?

It needs to be set to fast so the spring will be extended(floating sheave closed fully.

The oil hole will still be partially hidden, and a screwdriver may need to be used to separate the spring. FWIW, the shaft is likely visible(accessible) from the top down between the belt. That is where the oil needs to be(on the shaft).

IIWM, the belt would come off(fast sc setting) so that the sheave can be moved manually to distribute the oil. Do Not Let IT Slip!!!!!]

It is a 1 1/8 hp or so it says on the metal disk next to the serial number on the end of the headstock, that and the serial number lead me to believe it is a 1962 model. As for the bench tubes I will have to measure them later today if I get a chance as I am unsure of their diameter. The top set of tubes appear to be chromed, while the bottom tubes are duller and resemble more like a painted galvanized steel.

Todd

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 12:58 am

Since it is a 'Magna American 1 1/8 hp' I assume it has 1 3/4" silver/gray painted bench tubes. I am away from home, but I think a 379xxx sn would be closer to 1963.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 1:42 am

Like others said = start the motor and turn it to high speed. Then shut it down (at high speed setting). Now raise the unit to drill press position and liberally oil the shaft. Now you should be able to spread the spring and find the oil hole. You can now lower to horizontal position and pull the sheave out against the spring several times. You will feel it loosen up. Keep oiling and pulling until you feel it sliding freely against the spring.

Don't let the sheave slide back with a snap. You will want to maintain a strong hand.

RobertTaylor · Post by **RobertTaylor** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 5:32 am

Also I believe a '62 would have a "gilmer" belt and a '63 would be a "poly-v" with the 1 1/8 hp motor.

tgamel · Post by **tgamel** » Wed Apr 17, 2013 4:55 pm

JPG40504 wrote:Since it is a 'Magna American 1 1/8 hp' I assume it has 1 3/4" silver/gray painted bench tubes. I am away from home, but I think a 379xxx sn would be closer to 1963.

Yea, I would agree with the color of the lower tubes, that sounds right. Could be a 1963, just guesing since the Shopsmith serial numbers do not list my number figure it is late 62, or a 63.

Todd

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