Does anybody know the size of the clip used on the idler shaft to hold back the idler sheave? I was cleaning up the idler shaft and took the sheave off to do so, and, like the title says, I lost the gold clip. I'm wondering if this is a standard size clip I can get at the hardware store. It's only $0.80 at shopsmith and would hate to have to wait for it. The part is highlighted in the picture below.
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The shops gremlins got my sheave clip.
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The shops gremlins got my sheave clip.
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1986 Mark V 500, SS Bandsaw, SS Belt Sander, Shaper Package, SS Molder, SS Oscillating Drum Sander, Excalibur EX-II scrollsaw, Central Machine 6 1/8" Jointer, Rigid 13" planer, Various routers and table.
"Remeber, you're unique. Just like everyone else."
"Remeber, you're unique. Just like everyone else."
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dusty
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
If you have the idler shaft removed, just take it with you. The clip needs to fit firmly in the notch and around the shaft. As long as it does that and is not too large to disappear into the sheave, any clip should work.
The notch is .074" wide and the shaft at the bottom of the notch measures .547" (35/64").
The notch is .074" wide and the shaft at the bottom of the notch measures .547" (35/64").
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
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JPG
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- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I doubt you will find one at a 'hardware' store. It is a miniature version of the clip in the casters.
As long as the control and floating sheaves are free to move, I would run it without it until a replacement arrives.
It is imperative that the sheaves move freely so that (almost) constant pressure is applied by the belt so as to restrict the idler sheave from drifting towards the control sheave.
I would not let this become a permanent workaround.
P.S. any substitute clip must also fit into the idler sheave hub cavity and be removable.
As long as the control and floating sheaves are free to move, I would run it without it until a replacement arrives.
It is imperative that the sheaves move freely so that (almost) constant pressure is applied by the belt so as to restrict the idler sheave from drifting towards the control sheave.
I would not let this become a permanent workaround.
P.S. any substitute clip must also fit into the idler sheave hub cavity and be removable.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Take the shaft and Idler Sheave to an ACE hardware store or big box store. I have used an internal retaining ring in the past for #106. It needs to fit firmly in the shaft groove and inside the Idler Shaft pulley recess hole. I have used a external snap ring to hold the Idler Sheave (107) on the shaft but believe it would be very difficult to remove in the future. I have found this sheave clip (107) missing on a few operating headstocks so would believe you could get away without it for awhile .
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Thanks for the replies guys. I do have the shaft seperate from everything. Bill, I thought the same thing as you that I could use a snap ring but it would be hard to remove once installed. I would imagine that's why the orginal is the way it is.
Luckily when I first took apart the headstock a couple years ago I would always make sure I clipped that ring back when I was done cleaning the shaft, etc. I wish I would have done that this time.
Sounds like a lot of people have lost this to the shop gremlins.
-Erich-
Luckily when I first took apart the headstock a couple years ago I would always make sure I clipped that ring back when I was done cleaning the shaft, etc. I wish I would have done that this time.
Sounds like a lot of people have lost this to the shop gremlins.
-Erich-
1986 Mark V 500, SS Bandsaw, SS Belt Sander, Shaper Package, SS Molder, SS Oscillating Drum Sander, Excalibur EX-II scrollsaw, Central Machine 6 1/8" Jointer, Rigid 13" planer, Various routers and table.
"Remeber, you're unique. Just like everyone else."
"Remeber, you're unique. Just like everyone else."
Took the shaft and sheeve to Lowes but was unable to find a clip that fit. So I put the headstock back togehter and it spins like a top. Once I put the shaft under tension with the eccentric bushing I could not move the sheeve at all. So for now I'll run it that way and add the clip to the next order to Shopsmith. I'll replace it the next time I do a high speed adjustment.
-Erich-
-Erich-
1986 Mark V 500, SS Bandsaw, SS Belt Sander, Shaper Package, SS Molder, SS Oscillating Drum Sander, Excalibur EX-II scrollsaw, Central Machine 6 1/8" Jointer, Rigid 13" planer, Various routers and table.
"Remeber, you're unique. Just like everyone else."
"Remeber, you're unique. Just like everyone else."