Well, I guess the sickness has started

[linedrive]

So, as I alluded to in an earlier post, I'm new to the forum and three weeks ago I brought my dad's Mark V (1981) home with me (he passed away 17 years ago, and it hasn't been run since then).

Long story short, I was able to score a fantastic deal on Evaporust (at 61 cents a quart - bought 2 gallons for under $6), as there are a few areas that I need to work on. The plan is to strip it completely and restore it (to use and in honor of dad).

Well, I happened upon a 510 model that a friend had(I did not realize before that he had one). Because I was pretty well versed in the SS lingo, and what to look for, I spoke with him about it. He said that he got it many years ago in the 1970's (By serial number and the 510 fact, it is actually a 1986). He said he never really used it (you can tell). I offered him $300 for it and he took it. It is in perfect running order. The only thing missing was the drill chuck key, which I'll order from SS today.

My wife was, how should I say this... not thrilled.

I'll use it for the time being and see if I really need the larger tables... may sell it down the road, but for now I scored a great deal (in my opinion).

ONE QUICK QUESTION: the sanding disk and saw arbors (not really having been used) would not "slide" on, and I imagine there is some corrosion on the arbors (the shaft seems fine, the drill chuck slides on without problem). Should I put some Evaporust on the arbors, or just try some steel wool?

Thanks!

... Line

[dusty]

So, as I alluded to in an earlier post, I'm new to the forum and three weeks ago I brought my dad's Mark V (1981) home with me (he passed away 17 years ago, and it hasn't been run since then).

Long story short, I was able to score a fantastic deal on Evaporust (at 61 cents a quart - bought 2 gallons for under $6), as there are a few areas that I need to work on. The plan is to strip it completely and restore it (to use and in honor of dad).

Well, I happened upon a 510 model that a friend had(I did not realize before that he had one). Because I was pretty well versed in the SS lingo, and what to look for, I spoke with him about it. He said that he got it many years ago in the 1970's (By serial number and the 510 fact, it is actually a 1986). He said he never really used it (you can tell). I offered him $300 for it and he took it. It is in perfect running order. The only thing missing was the drill chuck key, which I'll order from SS today.

My wife was, how should I say this... not thrilled.

I'll use it for the time being and see if I really need the larger tables... may sell it down the road, but for now I scored a great deal (in my opinion).

ONE QUICK QUESTION: the sanding disk and saw arbors (not really having been used) would not "slide" on, and I imagine there is some corrosion on the arbors (the shaft seems fine, the drill chuck slides on without problem). Should I put some Evaporust on the arbors, or just try some steel wool?

Thanks!

... Line

First thing to do is make certain that the set screws are not inhiiting installation. Then I would clean the arbors on the inside with a light abrasive (steel wool or fine sand paper). This is by design a snug fit. When I remove mine from the shaft they sorta pop when the suction is broken. You want that.

Congratulations of the find. Build something for the "little woman" so that she has reason to overlook the $300 that is missing from her budget.

[JPG]

IIWM, Evaporust first always(except if black oxided) then minimal abrasion if needed. Black oxided parts, light wire brushing with fine 'bristles'.

Sometimes only more aggressive abrading is needed.

Hurrah for your 'find'. Do not forget the familial one!

Try the hardware store for a chuck key. Take the chuck with you. Pilot hole size and gear pitch are what matter.

[shaun]

What JayPeeGee said (about taking the chuck wi' you) -- I've found two (different) 'close but no Seger' keys, both made for 5/8" chucks. Pilot holes are a pretty good fit, but the size of the pinions make them barely functional. (Dangerous unless the key is forced in an up into the rack and the chuck is progressively tightened using each of the three holes in sequence.)

Regarding the difficulty mounting arbors: I had that problem with my first SS, an old 500 or V. I mounted an arbor by "persuading" it on; couldn't properly mount it; then couldn't un-mount it. After getting the arbor off, used some sandpaper on my finger and polished out the bore. Worked great.

Note: unless one were to take a Dremel to it, using sandpaper (or even emery cloth) to clean out the bore would be fine -- you needn't fear removing metal with hand polishing.

And congratulations on your purchase -- yew did gud!

Cheers!
-Shaun-

[tgamel]

Well, I happened upon a 510 model that a friend had(I did not realize before that he had one). Because I was pretty well versed in the SS lingo, and what to look for, I spoke with him about it. He said that he got it many years ago in the 1970's (By serial number and the 510 fact, it is actually a 1986). He said he never really used it (you can tell). I offered him $300 for it and he took it. It is in perfect running order. The only thing missing was the drill chuck key, which I'll order from SS today.

My wife was, how should I say this... not thrilled.

... Line

Congrats on your find.....Do like I did and build her something, and if that dosen't work, buy her something "purdy" as my grand daughter would say.