Shopsmith Forums

Picked this up at a yard sale for $3. Decided it needed a bit of tlc.

[ATTACH]21905[/ATTACH]

First puzzle is how to remove the rollers and cutter. This side has pins that are aligned to slots. I assume that is to prevent the axles from turning. The heads limit motion toward the body.

[ATTACH]21906[/ATTACH]

From the opposite side, the axles are flush with the outer surface. There is no way to rotate the axles because of the heads and slots on the other side, so I guessed they would press out from this side. Turned out to be a good guess.

[ATTACH]21907[/ATTACH]

But how does the moving slide come off the main body? The slide is held captive when fully opened and when closed the cutter and rollers interfere.

[ATTACH]21908[/ATTACH]

Underneath is a clue. the slide has a notch. The main body where the slide 'slides' also has a open area. Not shown in the pix, but the screw has additional threads at the cutter/roller interference point. If the slide were moved further, the slide notch and the ,main body open area will align.

[ATTACH]21909[/ATTACH]

Yer powers of deduction are most impressive, as always! But when is the last time that you needed to cut a pipe that was a good 12" away from the nearest obstruction?

Whoa, I just inadvertently proved the old maxim: "To find the right answer, you must first ask the right question". I hereby conclude that those cutters were never intended to be used for repairing stuff. They are designed to cut new pipe, yet to be installed.

Another clue is the notch the screw goes into the slide. It had to slip on, so it must slip off.

After removing the cutter and roller axles, moving the slide further until the slide notch and main body break align, the slide slips off.

[attach]21910[/attach]

The screw can now be backed out completely since the end is smaller than the thread id.

[attach]21911[/attach]

The roller axles were worn on one side only so this is the first time they have been removed. Notice the retaining rings on the axle.

[attach]21912[/attach]

The cutter axle was had wear on both sides of the axle, so the cutter is likely not the original.

[attach]21913[/attach]

Exploded view. Not too many parts.

[attach]21914[/attach]

Reassembly is the reverse. I was able to get a 5 pack of new axles and a new cutter. The current model number is '202' This is a model 2. Wonder how old it is?

I used 3 new axles and decided to use the old cutter for the time being as it looks like it does not have much wear. I am keeping the original axles(the roller axles can be used so that the bearing surface is on the opposite side of the axle).

I applied lithium grease on all moving parts bearing surfaces.

So I spent an additional $20 and have a nearly new condition good quality pipe cutter and some new and used spare parts. Ready for mini making.

[quote="BuckeyeDennis"]Yer powers of deduction are most impressive, as always! ]
Truth be told, this model(the current catalog listing anyway) is intended to be used with a pipe 'rotator' and the cutter is held as the pipe is spun so new pipe conclusion is accurate.

12" is not enough any way. It is longer than that especially when fully opened for 2" pipe.

For close quarter cutting, a sawsall or a cutoff wheel gets them separated.

Besides who uses iron pipe now days? Even copper has been replaced with pvc/cpvc. Priced iron pipe fittings lately?:eek:

JPG40504 wrote:Truth be told, this model(the current catalog listing anyway) is intended to be used with a pipe 'rotator' and the cutter is held as the pipe is spun so new pipe conclusion is accurate.

12" is not enough any way. It is longer than that especially when fully opened for 2" pipe.

For close quarter cutting, a sawsall or a cutoff wheel gets them separated.

Besides who uses iron pipe now days? Even copper has been replaced with pvc/cpvc. Priced iron pipe fittings lately?:eek:

I've always seen that cutter used with a pipe cutting/threading machine, with the cutter fixed in place so it pivots in/out as needed to cut. Iron pipe is used for gas lines - I replaced all the gas lines in my house a few years back when I switched to a tankless water heater and wanted to upgrade to a 1" main line from the meter. These are also used for galvanized steel pipe cutting and threading - not used much anymore for water lines, although it was quite common in the era between when cast iron was used and when copper become the norm, so lots of houses from the ~40's-60's around us that still have galvanized steel pipe, so when something needs to be fixed, folks will usually patch in a piece rather than face the inevitability of replacing all of their plumbing...steel pipe doesn't mix well with copper and bi-metalic unions are required for each junction, which are expensive....as a result all the respectable hardware stores around us still carry galvanized steel pipe and have a ridgid cutting/threading machine.

As for copper being replaced by PVC (?) - not in my neck of the woods...PVC for water lines (other than irrigation/non-potable uses) is rare and frowned upon. If anything, copper is being replaced by PEX tubing due to lower costs and ease of installation. Me? I just totally replumbed my house at the time I did the gas lines - I was tired of the galvanized steel pipes that were 3/4 clogged with rust and grunge. I did everything in 3/4" copper - four days of wallowing under my house with a Sawzall and a sweat fitting torch and an overdue, major upgrade to my 1930 house was at last complete. Copper is fairly expensive these days but it was a once in my lifetime type of repair and would definitely more than pay for itself in increased home value to have it done right...besides, I'm just not that sold on newfangled PEX tubing.

JPG40504 wrote:Truth be told, this model(the current catalog listing anyway) is intended to be used with a pipe 'rotator' and the cutter is held as the pipe is spun so new pipe conclusion is accurate.

12" is not enough any way. It is longer than that especially when fully opened for 2" pipe.

For close quarter cutting, a sawsall or a cutoff wheel gets them separated.

Besides who uses iron pipe now days? Even copper has been replaced with pvc/cpvc. Priced iron pipe fittings lately?:eek:

Looks like you picked up the older brother to my No. 2A. I've used mine to cut everything from 2" black and galvanized pipe to chain link fence posts and top-rails to 1/2" pipe for my Pony clamps. Don't think I've tried the 1/8" minimum.....that could be a trick to keep from bending 1/8" stuff from the weight of the thing

From what I know about the history of the one I've got, mine is somewhere around 30-40 years old. I've replaced the cutter wheel on mine a number of years ago after shattering the cutting edge trying to cut some oil-field tubing. That's when I bought my DeWalt 14" abrasive wheel chop saw
BTW....the new cutting wheel is apparently MUCH sharper than the original. It creates a much smaller internal burr than the original. Spose it was due for replacement anyway.

I know all too well the price of black pipe and fittings.....we had to do a total replacement of the central air/heat system 2 weeks ago and had to have the gas line run to the new furnace location.....the price to run about 20' of 3/4" pipe and a half dozen fittings was $600:eek:

Last year in an old Toronto bay-side museum, I saw a very old RIDGID heavy-duty tool. I had not appreciated how long they've been around.

Funny that a pipe cutter happens be be a topic here since I've dug mine out to cut conduit for a couple of none electrical projects just a week or so ago.

This is what mine looks like, and I'd have to say I think it is pretty old just because of how it looks.

[ATTACH]21915[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]21916[/ATTACH]

I use it so little but it is nice to have for projects.

Ed

To put your $3 in perspective, this is on the low end of normal for a Rigid pipe cutter in my area. Probably worse condition than you found yours in as well.

http://springfield.craigslist.org/tls/3754052616.html

Residential plumbing is but one use for pipes, there are many applications that PVC or PEX are not appropriate for.

frank81 wrote: Residential plumbing is but one use for pipes, there are many applications that PVC or PEX are not appropriate for.

Like commercial and industrial sprinkler systems. All steel there. I've never seen any plastics on sprinkler systems.