Mark VII Miter Gauge Reassembly

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jul 19, 2013 9:04 pm

A few differences from a Mark 5/V as will be shown.

A couple obvious ones here are the segment lock(no knob) and no t slot washer etc.

[ATTACH]22201[/ATTACH]

Less obvious is the 'feet'. The Mark VII has small nylon headless screws that ride against the table top. They are slotted on the top end and are adjusted from the top. Same as Mark 5 and early Mark V.

[ATTACH]22202[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]22203[/ATTACH]

The 'feet' peek out from the bottom.

[ATTACH]22204[/ATTACH]

May not be OEM, but it works. I will show 'how' in the next post. I prefer set screws for this and will not be using the wing 'screw'.

[ATTACH]22205[/ATTACH]

This thread is linked to from https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11984

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jul 19, 2013 9:47 pm

The thumb screw is long enough so that it extends down to the miter gauge stop rod holes.

[attach]22206[/attach]

An 'alternate' screw. I do not like either one. I prefer 5/16-18 flat ended set screws that use the SS tool kit. They are accessed from above. They must be removed to adjust the feet, but that is seldom needed and the set screws are easily removed.

[attach]22207[/attach]

One area of consternation with newer miter gauges is the two thicknesses of 'shim' washers. The pivot boss and segment clamping area are not at a different height, so the shims are the same thickness on the Mark VII.

[attach]22208[/attach]

As received, there were 'extra' parts. There were two cupped or spring washers. I decided to try the 'weaker' one first. There was never a need to try the other one.

[attach]22209[/attach]

The segment clamp parts sequence starts with the thin shim washer between the bar and the segment and two flat washers separated by the spring washer on top of which the clamp cams against. A stud connected to the clamp screws into the bar. The clamp 'tightness' is affected by the distance the stud is screwed into the bar. That adjustment needs to be done before adding the safety grip etc.

[attach]22210[/attach]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:11 pm

The pivot has a shim washer between the pivot boss and the bar. A flat head screw secures the segment to the bar. The screw has nylon(?) embeded in the threads which allows tightening the screw and then backing it off until the segment pivots freely.

[ATTACH]22211[/ATTACH]

The clamp cam in the loose position('wings' raised).

[ATTACH]22212[/ATTACH]

And in the clamped position('wings' lowered). Notice the compressed spring washer between the two flat washers.(focus is better).

[ATTACH]22213[/ATTACH]

The angle stop pin mounting block is secured with two screws.

[ATTACH]22214[/ATTACH]

The clamp stud extends below the bottom of the bar, but the table slots are deeper in the center, so it does not drag. The stop screws will be adjusted later.

[ATTACH]22215[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jul 19, 2013 10:54 pm

All the pix in this post are the same as the earlier safety grip.

Clamp rod and nuts.

[attach]22216[/attach]

Simple enough! Notice the nut orientation.

[attach]22217[/attach]

So is this, but assembly can be trying! Using a table vise and drift pin punch makes it easier. Notice how the parts nest. Squeeze handle in the groove, pivot plate in the notch and spring on the nubbin of the pivot plate and spring in the 'box'.

[attach]22218[/attach]

Not shown in the pix, is the mounting post which fits into the area under the pivot plate screw. The relief cut into the post sets on the narrow area of the 'hole'. The other half of the handle is placed onto the pin punch and meshed with the first half.
By inserting the screw as the assembly is drawn off the pin punch keeps the pivot plate from shifting out of position. The top two screws are tightened.

[attach]22219[/attach]

The mounting post is screwed down into the tapped hole above the pivot screw. The clamp wings must be oriented to straddle the handle. Then the last screw is inserted to secure the handle bottom to the detent pin block. This is a loose fit to the block.

[attach]22220[/attach]

One 'detail' is missing! If you noticed in the middle(third of five) pix, there are three screws of three different lengths. There are supposed to be four! During assembly a shop gremlin stole one of the screws. I believe the longest belongs at the bottom and the shortest belongs in the rear upper hole. If that is incorrect I shall alter this post when I find the gremlin:mad: and get my screw back!:D

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:02 pm

As mentioned earlier, I prefer set screws for securing the miter gauge stop rod.

[ATTACH]22221[/ATTACH]

They are accessible from the top.

[ATTACH]22222[/ATTACH]

I assume everyone knows how to attach the safety grip clamp arm to the pivot plate so no pix/verbage about that is included.

Hey!!!!! We are done!!!!!:):):):):):):)(except for the missing screw:() P.S. Went back and looked at the disassembly thread. Only three screws there! So the Gremlin was falsely accused!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ATTACH]22223[/ATTACH]

BuckeyeDennis · Post by **BuckeyeDennis** » Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:14 pm

A thing of great beauty! Can't wait to see the whole machine restored and assembled.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jul 19, 2013 11:34 pm

BuckeyeDennis wrote:A thing of great beauty! Can't wait to see the whole machine restored and assembled.

I eagerly anticipate using it.!

Then my half century old Goldie will get its turn!

algale · Post by **algale** » Sat Jul 20, 2013 6:26 am

This is an interesting design for locking in the angle as it does not introduce twist along the direction of travel of the protractor. In my experience with the standard Mark V miter gauge, setting angles can be frustrating because turning the lock knob on the protractor can cause the desired angle to shift slightly (although this can be minimized or eliminated by using two washers under the knob). So, how effective do you think the the clamping mechanism on the Mark VII miter gauge is going to be at holding an angle?

Al

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jul 20, 2013 9:30 am

I am not a good one to ask! I am used to having the single washer/knob version all these decades, but have added a second washer since it was brought up. I am in the habit of feeling the bar as I grasp the segment when tightening. If it moves, I know immediately. I am also in the habit of checking visually with 'odd' angles. I rarely use 'odd' angles so usually I am pushing into the stops as I tighten.

The cam lock has to be an improvement, but I am concerned relative to its slipping. Time will tell. The 'wings' are free(small range) to move so loosening can occur.