Shopsmith Forums

I honestly did not believe that the Mark 7 would come precisely adjusted form the factory or even if it did, the transit would know something out of alignment.

Happy surprise was that it was so close I'm not certain I could get it better.

Anyway, I had watched the setup of the table on the old videos where they used the L shaped hex wrench and thought that it was okay accurate , but not great so I bought a cheap dial indicator with the idea that I would make a runner to fit in the miter slots then attach the gauge and check out the table to the blade and fence.

Then I though I might be able to adapt the old style hex wrench to the dial gauge as shown in the video.

What I found is that a small piece of 1/4" flexible tubing "snugly" fits in the hole in the back of the dial gauge and the wrench can be pushed into the opening in the tubing, making a reliable adapter.

I presume many others have found this same solution, but after a brief search I didn't find any other posts.

Neat idea!:)

Reliability questionable.

Flexible tubing means spongy.

Miter gauge set screw pressing against point of the SS tool kit. Means bottom point also pressing against bottom of hole in miter gauge.

I think I see your invention, but not quite sure

Wouldn't it be more accurate using the set screw that can tighten the wrench into the miter guage?

charlese wrote:I think I see your invention, but not quite sure

Wouldn't it be more accurate using the set screw that can tighten the wrench into the miter guage?

I think he does use the set screw to tighten the wrench into the mitre slot.
I think the tubing is to provide a snug fit of the gauge onto the wrench.
JPG thinks that might be spongy, but I don't think it would be all that problematic.

JPG also mentioned the with the hex wrench the set screw and part of the wrench touching the mitre gauge would be on a corner of the hex of the wrench. Again if it is solid I don't see a problem.

I set up my SS for years using a feeler gauge and the hex wrench and it worked fine so I think this would be a suitable way to utilize dial indicator instead of the feeler gauge.

I see it as a great idea!

Ed in Tampa wrote:I think he does use the set screw to tighten the wrench into the mitre slot.
I think the tubing is to provide a snug fit of the gauge onto the wrench.
JPG thinks that might be spongy, but I don't think it would be all that problematic.

JPG also mentioned the with the hex wrench the set screw and part of the wrench touching the mitre gauge would be on a corner of the hex of the wrench. Again if it is solid I don't see a problem.

I set up my SS for years using a feeler gauge and the hex wrench and it worked fine so I think this would be a suitable way to utilize dial indicator instead of the feeler gauge.

I see it as a great idea!

Oh I do agree(sorta).

For decades a hand held ss toolkit was adequate for checking alignment.

Still is.

It is only with the introduction of a gauge calibrated on 0.001" that spongy(the gauge mount to the ss tool kit) and edges becoming 'bearing surfaces are potential causes of inaccuracy.

Truth be revealed, a hex shaped rod can only be reduced to one flat and two point contacts in a round bore with a flat end setscrew.

Hey! It WILL work better than a hand held wrench!




Until you become a 'tail chaser' striving for 'perfection'!:eek:



I would be inclined to use a miter gauge stop rod to mount a gauge on(if I had a gauge;)).

Ed in Tampa wrote:I think he does use the set screw to tighten the wrench into the mitre slot.
I think the tubing is to provide a snug fit of the gauge onto the wrench.
JPG thinks that might be spongy, but I don't think it would be all that problematic.

JPG also mentioned the with the hex wrench the set screw and part of the wrench touching the mitre gauge would be on a corner of the hex of the wrench. Again if it is solid I don't see a problem.

I set up my SS for years using a feeler gauge and the hex wrench and it worked fine so I think this would be a suitable way to utilize dial indicator instead of the feeler gauge.

Ed is completely correct.

Yes, I do use the set screw in the miter gauge to hold the wrench (as in the old video) and since the wrench is hexagonal, the flat side is held firmly by that screw.
The tubing is a very snug fit both going in to the bracket on the back of the dial indicator gauge and then pressing the short end of the wrench into the tubing. The gauge doesn't slip at all.

To check for slop in the bar and somewhat compensate for it, I did tighten the middle set screw that widens the miter gauge bar enough to remove slack and then further tightened it at each far end so the miter would not move when checking readings just in case. That has nothing to do with the attaching, but wanted to assure that I was trying to keep things accurate.

Sorry I gave much less than a satisfactory and thorough explanation. I am usually so long winded and am trying to change that in my old age.

Ben

benush26 wrote:Ed is completely correct.

Yes, I do use the set screw in the miter gauge to hold the wrench (as in the old video) and since the wrench is hexagonal, the flat side is held firmly by that screw.
The tubing is a very snug fit both going in to the bracket on the back of the dial indicator gauge and then pressing the short end of the wrench into the tubing. The gauge doesn't slip at all.

To check for slop in the bar and somewhat compensate for it, I did tighten the middle set screw that widens the miter gauge bar enough to remove slack and then further tightened it at each far end so the miter would not move when checking readings just in case. That has nothing to do with the attaching, but wanted to assure that I was trying to keep things accurate.

Sorry I gave much less than a satisfactory and thorough explanation. I am usually so long winded and am trying to change that in my old age.

Ben

Take a closer 'look'!;) Point faces up. Has to for the short end to be horizontal!










Details, assumptions!:eek:

[quote="JPG40504"]Oh I do agree(sorta).

I would be inclined to use a miter gauge stop rod to mount a gauge on(if I had a gauge]

I did consider something similar but using ready thread. Bend a 90 degree and then use washers and nuts to firmly hold the dial indicator on. Frankly if the tubing had not worked, that was my next creation

I am certain that a dedicated bar that fits in the miter slot and has the piece to attach the dial indicator is the way to go, but I figured I'd save the $40 to make payments on this new FUN toy (or maybe more lumber!).

Still having a difficult time believing how accurate the Mark 7 is coming from the factory. But I am NOT complaining!!:p

[quote="JPG40504"]Take a closer 'look'!]

How do I do I show a supplicating bow with emoticons! And say "I am not worthy!"

I hate "assuming" so try to presume, but in this case, as is often the case with me, luck wins out over skill (though one day I'd like to try the skill thing - just not sure how ). Just lucky that the set screw did not slip.

That'll Do Ben, That'll do!

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