I am trying to build a adjustable height music stand with a turned base and a Dowel through center to act as the height adjustment. Basically small 1 1/2" through a 3 1/2" spindle. any idea's?
Thank's in advance.
Dowel Through a Spindle.
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How deep?
Basic scenario would be to turn spindle to round. Use Forstner bit to drill while still mounted in a lathe chuck or on a faceplate. With an extension for the Forstner bit you can get about 9" deep.
My tailstock seems to wobble too much to do this as accurately as I want, so I put my lathe chuck on the tailstock arbor and mount the bit in the drill chuck.
Basic scenario would be to turn spindle to round. Use Forstner bit to drill while still mounted in a lathe chuck or on a faceplate. With an extension for the Forstner bit you can get about 9" deep.
My tailstock seems to wobble too much to do this as accurately as I want, so I put my lathe chuck on the tailstock arbor and mount the bit in the drill chuck.
Jim in Bakersfield:D
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JPG
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I think that is a horizontal boring task, not a lathe task.randyt wrote:I was hoping to go about 18" into a 30" spindle.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I agree with JPG.....
Horizontal boring is the way to go IMO (not known for being humble). Your key is going to be your table/fixture being as perfectly parallel to the spindle as possible.
I recently had to cut many round tenons and found that it was helpful to first bore a through hole through a piece of perfectly squared wood (at least in 2 dimensions) with everything at final configuration (DON'T change anything between test and final bore) and then measure the thickness of the hole at each end. Since you are planning on a 18" hole I highly recommend that your test drill be at least that long to assure no wobble in the final hole.
That's a tough alignment!
Forrest
I recently had to cut many round tenons and found that it was helpful to first bore a through hole through a piece of perfectly squared wood (at least in 2 dimensions) with everything at final configuration (DON'T change anything between test and final bore) and then measure the thickness of the hole at each end. Since you are planning on a 18" hole I highly recommend that your test drill be at least that long to assure no wobble in the final hole.
That's a tough alignment!
Forrest
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
You could go with a square channel inside the 3 1/2" spindle instead. While the spindle is still square, cut it in half and rout or dado a 1 1/2" wide by 3/4" deep groove down the center of both pieces, then glue the halves back together. As long as the core touches the inner channel snugly on 4 sides, I don't think you'll have any wobble.
Gary
Gary