Shopsmith Forums

I have a question for those in this forum who have used Evapo-Rust. I picked-up a pint from Tool Freight and Harbor yesterday (thanks for the previous posts on where to get it) and then got to wondering how I was going to apply it.

I have a sump pump that I pulled that needs a little clean-up before a new coat of paint. It stands 11 inches high 6 inches wide. Obviously I am not going to be able to submerse the pump in a pint, nor do I want to buy a gallon or more. The rust is just a light coat on the exterior of the pump.

Question: Those who have used this on SS parts of a larger size, how did you apply it? Instructions suggest paper towels wet with it, them wrapped in plastic to keep it from drying out. Any suggestions other than this? I started to think I might be better off with a naval jelly.

I would follow the paper towel instructions.

heathicus wrote:I would follow the paper towel instructions.

Or shop rag.

For larger stuff, I use electrolysis (washing soda/scrap steel/battery charger(battery optional!)).


The plastic bag is important - It does 'evaporate'.

Howdy,

I love EvaporRust. I've used it to restore old hand saws, planes, and other severely rusted items. I had the best results by submerging the items in plastic tubs or trays that were a little larger than the parts. I've used plastic bags, long trays, and tubs long enough to hold a hand saw blade.

It cleaned up with water and worked better than anything else I've tried. I tried the paper towel soak, but it seemed to waste a lot of the liquid. You can reuse it if you submerge the part, but towels are a one way street and take a lot longer to clean the part.

Mike

Buy a gallon. Place the part in a pan and rotate it as required to cover all sides over a few days. I leave it in the solution for 24 hours before rotating the part if the gallon won't completely cover it until it's all done. You can reuse the solution over again as long as you keep it covered in the pan with foil so it won't evaporate.
[ATTACH]22804[/ATTACH]
only half of some parts fit in solution at a time.

[ATTACH]22805[/ATTACH]
half done after 24 hours.

friscomike wrote:Howdy,

I love EvaporRust. I've used it to restore old hand saws, planes, and other severely rusted items. I had the best results by submerging the items in plastic tubs or trays that were a little larger than the parts. I've used plastic bags, long trays, and tubs long enough to hold a hand saw blade.

It cleaned up with water and worked better than anything else I've tried. I tried the paper towel soak, but it seemed to waste a lot of the liquid. You can reuse it if you submerge the part, but towels are a one way street and take a lot longer to clean the part.

Mike

Does EvapoRust effect the etchings that might be on an old saw blade (like one of my old Disstons). I have one that has been really abused.

Evaporust will tend to darken the whole saw-blade if it had much rust and/or pitting.

Most of the saw-restoring gurus like to use a wet/abrasive method: Scrape heavier rust with a razor, then go to wet sandpapers. Sometimes they will then apply a selective bluing compound to 'raise' the etch back up in contrast.

The good news is that Disston saw etches are typically quite deep and will come back to visibility. The bad news for myself, an Indianapolis Atkins-saw fan, is that the Atkins etches tend to get removed more permanently.

Thanks for the advice. I especially appreciate the pictures (worth a thousand words). I will get a gallon and use a bucket that fits the pump closely. I have some old drill bits and a #5 Stanley plane base that I will clean after the pump. This looks much easier than my previous method - WD40 and a 8 inch wire wheel on the lathe. Thanks again! Now I have another question related to contact cement. I will post a new thread.

Evaporust will turn the last vestiges of rust to blackoxide(veeery thin). If the evaporust evaporates, the residue(blox) will be thicker.

Evaporust does eventually get 'depleted'(contaminated?) and reuse gradually becomes ineffective.

If saw blades are truely etched, evaporust will not attack them, but will remove darker oxide from within.

A good saw will perform with 'etching' removed!;) Etchings are only good for ego tripping!:rolleyes:

Your question led me to thinking (dangerous). Has anyone run Evapo-Rust through a parts washer?