Shopsmith Forums

How thick is the new non-thru-cut riving knife?

dusty wrote:How thick is the new non-thru-cut riving knife?

I thought you owned one?

Anyway mine measures .075"

Ed

reible wrote:I thought you owned one?

Anyway mine measures .075"

Ed

I have one that I built myself but it is less than ideal (I think due to being a little too thick). Mine measures .088" to .102".

However, .075" is a bit thinner than I had expected. Doesn't a thin kerf blade typically measure .093"?

dusty wrote:I have one that I built myself but it is less than ideal (I think due to being a little too thick). Mine measures .088" to .102".

However, .075" is a bit thinner than I had expected. Doesn't a thin kerf blade typically measure .093"?

I went and rechecked and the .075 number looks good.

In general the thin kerf blades will be in the range you mentioned, some a bit thicker some a little under that number. One extra thin blade is about the thickness of a dime.

http://www.totalsawsolutions.com/

I've used my knife but really how much can you tell about how well it works? It only works in blind cuts and I've never had any issues with it, I've also gone years with out one of these and never had any issues either.

I tend to take the extra step with safety concerns so I bought in to the micro jig system MJ splitters/GRR-Ripers some years ago.

http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-spl ... ndex.shtml

When shopsmith offered the knife I didn't order it at first but at a later time I decided I'd give it a go.

Ed

Other than a thin kerf blade I own, my saw blades are 1/8 or .125 cut kerf. I have the non-thru-cut riving knife installed and find that 12% wet wood will close and bind unless I put a wedge in the kerf beyond the knife.

Don't use that very often, but fir 2x4s are good for cheap (always find one around the house) jigs and fixtures in some cases.

I know that a 1/8 knife would be too thick and would tend to hangup a cut but does anyone know of one on the order of .095 for the SS? Guess I need to make one, too.

Forrest

forrestb wrote:Other than a thin kerf blade I own, my saw blades are 1/8 or .125 cut kerf. I have the non-thru-cut riving knife installed and find that 12% wet wood will close and bind unless I put a wedge in the kerf beyond the knife.

Don't use that very often, but fir 2x4s are good for cheap (always find one around the house) jigs and fixtures in some cases.

I know that a 1/8 knife would be too thick and would tend to hangup a cut but does anyone know of one on the order of .095 for the SS? Guess I need to make one, too.

Forrest

Cutting wet wood (especially ripping wet wood) will always have potential for serious problems. Using wedges may reduce the propensity for those problems but will never eliminate them. I suggest that "no wet home" is the only way to go.

Making your own slitter is really quit simple IF you can find suitable materials of the right thickness.

[ATTACH]22803[/ATTACH]

If you do make one, don't leave that sharp point on the end. Making unplanned contact leaves a nasty gash. Round it off!!!

forrestb wrote:Other than a thin kerf blade I own, my saw blades are 1/8 or .125 cut kerf. I have the non-thru-cut riving knife installed and find that 12% wet wood will close and bind unless I put a wedge in the kerf beyond the knife.

Don't use that very often, but fir 2x4s are good for cheap (always find one around the house) jigs and fixtures in some cases.

I know that a 1/8 knife would be too thick and would tend to hangup a cut but does anyone know of one on the order of .095 for the SS? Guess I need to make one, too.

Forrest

Cutting wet wood (especially ripping wet wood) will always have potential for serious problems. Using wedges may reduce the propensity for those problems but will never eliminate them. I suggest that "no wet home" is the only way to go.

Making your own slitter is really quit simple IF you can find suitable materials of the right thickness.

[ATTACH]22803[/ATTACH]

If you do make one, don't leave that sharp point on the end. Making unplanned contact leaves a nasty gash. Round it off!!!

BTW

The stock splitter is the same .075" thick. So the option of finding a used one then cutting to make a new version exists. Not sure you can save much money that way but it would be simpler.

On cutting wet wood or any other cheap 2 X stock will often result in some major twisting as the internal stresses are revealed. Wet or not that will happen so I don't use that for cost savings as it often turns out so bad I have to use it for garden projects to rot away any way.

I have seen wood turn 90 degrees in 8 feet after being cut, you just have no idea of the stress that is built up as part of a growing living tree.

If you have to cut wet wood I would go to the bandsaw with a wet wood blade (see Highland), that works pretty well.

Ed

If I'm using a thicker blade and worried the wood closing on itself. I stick painters tape to the riving knife to make it thicker. But over all I haven't felt the need often. The only times I use the knife are when the regular saw guard would interfere with the fence or when doing blind cuts.

Mine is also .075". It's leading edge is tapered toward the front. Not sharpened, but is tapered that direction.