Shopsmith Forums

From Yahoo. 10ER like rail added to 10E wooden extension table.

http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Shopsmith10ERusers/photos/albums/1173653092/lightbox/2018868144

In case the link doesn't work for thee.

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The extension table mod is nicely done. It is also interesting how they shortened the bench (but not the tubes), although I don't think it would work in drill press mode.

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Did you notice the 10ER with longer bench and lathe extension?
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Shopsmith10ERusers/files/Accessories-Modifications/10ER%20Lathe%20Extension%20Tilt

for some reason it was posted in the files section not in photos. Here are the photos for those who are not members there.

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Ron, that second set of pictures has given me an idea.

Some of you know, I wasted to make a set-up, to make a semi dedicated "drill-press" mode ER, that would adapt the way that second one does. Since I have all the parts, I've decided to do something different.

Along wiht my main ER, I'll build;

1, a real (well, kinda, read on) dedicated drill-press ER.

2, take a "drill-press" base, mount the tilt base on it, with the way tubes. Now (in drill-press mode from bottom to top) carriage, tailstock, and tiebar. The tiebar needs the threads drilled out, where you'd attach the tailstock to the left end. I would use flat-end setscrews on the tie bar, so if you need the FULL length, you can put the tailstock all the way at the right end.

The tiebar on the extension piece, will be 1/2 tailstock thickness from the end of the way tubes, as will the main ER's tilt base's way tubes. 2 more pieces. 2 pieces of oak, turned to fit inside the way tubes, at that join area.

Take #2, lay it to horizontal, insert the oak plugs half way, and slide it into the right end of the real ER, with a tailstock mounted upside down.

By my calculations, this will give an ER an extra 4 feet of length for spindle turning. (And, if you saw my spoiler up there, the dedicated drill-press could add an EXTRA 2.5 feet, using the same method. I'd just have to remove the tiebar, and slip on a tailstock above the headstock.)

Once my extra tiebar and tailstock show up, I'll have ALL the parts.

Yes, I'm weird, thanks for noticing. (Now, what to do with a 10 foot spindle lathe?)

steve

I really really would hate to see you drill out the tie bar threads.

Consider: With the tie bar 'loose'(and upside down) on the 'extension', attach the 'extension' with 'plugs' as suggested, then move the tie bar up close to the upside down tailstock at the 'joint' with the plugs inside.

Thread a long threaded knurled 'bolt'(one of those OEM ones will do!) from the upside down tailstock out to the upside down tie bar and engage the threads of both the tailstock and the tie bar.

Extend the 'bolt' past the tiebar and install a nut, but leave some space between the tie bar and the nut.

Tighten the set screws on both the upside down tailstock and tie bar.

Now back off the 'bolt' until the nut pulls it all tight(er).

An additional nut on the tailstock end of the 'bolt' could lock it all down.

Only the nuts are non-EOM! . . . . . . The ones on the bolt, not 'us'!:D

Flat washers between the nuts and the castings would be good.



P.S. You turn 10 ft columns from trees. :eek::eek::eek::eek:

JPG, the tailstock doesn't have any threads or setscrews. (Well, not by the way tubes.) The top of the pivot, on the pivot base does, though. Those are the threads that hold the tailstock on, on the right end. The only thing the threads on the tiebar do, is to hold the tailstock on, on the left end. (For mounting another ext table.)

The notch in the tiebar is not centered, and lines up with neither the pivot, or the tailstock. The threaded hole does, though. Besides I've got an extra tiebar coming.

The knurl-headed 'bolt' doesn't have threads the whole length, I'd need something else. And, I like using this bolt to pull everything together.

Outside of "ruining" a tiebar, I'm altering nothing. (And, if I absolutely NEED to fix the tiebar, there's always helicoils.) And, the only changes will be done to the "extension." My main ER, (even though it has a MkV headrest and a DC motor)) is still going to be the same.

As it is, I'm thinking of drilling and tapping the "extension" way tubes, about 2 inches in. Drill and tap for a setscrew each, that would screw into the oak pins, and be sunk below the surface of the tubes. That would locate the oak pins, and still be smooth enough for stuff to slide over.

Oh, to do it the way you're suggesting, I'd still need to drill out the threads on something, since the pivot and the tiebar, (which would be the outer components) need to be pulled together, somehow. I'd rather drill out the tiebar, so I can still use my main ER, as a short (normal length) lathe. The extension is just to be an extension.

steve

Now that I have demonstrated the fallibility of my memory cells, I shall alter the 'suggestion' made above after looking at some actual parts.

Overlooked(forgotten) fact: the hole between the way tube bores on the tailstock is NOT threaded. Actually GOOD news!

Overlooked (forgotten) #2: There is a tapped hole in between the way tube bores in the 'hinge' that aligns with the tie bar and tail stock hole. The reason twas good above!

Sooooo; Change the above to extend the 'bolt'(likely needs to be allthread(readyrod for nautical types lurking herein) due to it's needed length) through the tailstock and into the tapped hole in the hinge etc.

Fortunately all these holes are on a common center line so upside/downside down/up they still align.


OVER!:D

I think the 'plugs' really need to be steel(at least metal) to insure adequate strength and dimensional stability. Oak is good enough for a prototype.

I had overlooked(also) the lack of set screws in the tailstock.

So the upside down tailstock serves as an alignment/rigidity vehicle, and the hinge, tie bar and 'bolt' serve to hold it together.

I don't know if I mentioned it earlier, but the upside-down tailstock, as well as the oak pins, will be reinforcing the joint.

I've, for about 20 years, have been spacing my way tubes at about half the thickness of the tailstock, sticking out of the pivot or tiebar. Never had any problem with that. This method is using the same spacing, but also uses the tailstock as reinforcement with the oak pins.

I've heard of people attaching a tailstock to a wall, and nailing down the feet of their lathe for long turnings, but this method looks to be MUCH stronger.

Besides, at most, I'll be turning 4X4 or 6X6 posts into bed legs. I'm not about to try an unbalanced tree trunk.

Yet!:D

steve

skou wrote:I don't know if I mentioned it earlier, but the upside-down tailstock, as well as the oak pins, will be reinforcing the joint.

I've, for about 20 years, have been spacing my way tubes at about half the thickness of the tailstock, sticking out of the pivot or tiebar. Never had any problem with that. This method is using the same spacing, but also uses the tailstock as reinforcement with the oak pins.

I've heard of people attaching a tailstock to a wall, and nailing down the feet of their lathe for long turnings, but this method looks to be MUCH stronger.

Besides, at most, I'll be turning 4X4 or 6X6 posts into bed legs. I'm not about to try an unbalanced tree trunk.

Yet!:D

steve

That 'detail' was not overlooked by me.

What I initially 'overlooked' was the clearance hole in the tailstock between the way tube bores.

I think the half way protrusion is actually a good thing(increases length)!

Ya kin double that on the opposite end!:D

My oversite is due to lack of enough experience actually using this beast(recently).]Please![/I]

[quote="JPG40504"]Do keep metal modifying tools away from all original parts. Please!]

That is why I bought another tiebar.

I understand the concern with not refacing original ER parts, but, for the time being, they are plentiful.

"Ya kin double that on the opposite end" said JPG.

I do.

I just slid a tailstock onto the tail of this machine, and the top wobbled on the looseness, about 1/32nd of an inch. Tighten up the bolt, and nothing.

OK, we've got .2 inch wall thickness way tubes, with a 3/8ths inch cast iron collar joining them, and an oak 6 inch long plug inside the way tube at the join. If something were to bend, it would be the way tube, outside the cast iron collar.

Back, when the ER was released, one of the manufacturing crew, took a now famous picture of a Buick, jacked up and supported on 3 wheels with jackstands, and the front driver's wheel sitting on an ER's way tubes. And, that was when a Buick was really a Buick, not one of these flimsy plastic things.

As always, thanks for any suggestions/critiques. I'm HOPING you catch some idea I don't.

steve