After market table saw blades / balancers
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texomawood
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After market table saw blades / balancers
Has anybody shifted to 5/8" arbor table saw blades? Do you use stiffeners / balancers? Any issues? I need to cut some cabinet grade plywood and the 3 blades avail from Shopsmith don't seem to cut without a lot of chip/ tear-out.
Rather than going to a different blade or arbor, a cheaper fix for chip out is to buy or make a zero-clearance insert.
To answer your question, however, I have used a 5/8 bore full-kerf Forrest WWII blade on my Mark V using the Shopsmith 5/8 saw blade arbor. I have experienced no issues. Since it is full kerf, I have not tried stiffener or balancers.
To answer your question, however, I have used a 5/8 bore full-kerf Forrest WWII blade on my Mark V using the Shopsmith 5/8 saw blade arbor. I have experienced no issues. Since it is full kerf, I have not tried stiffener or balancers.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Never used one either. Although some say it helps prevent wobble on thin-kerf blades.dusty wrote:I have never felt a need for a stiffener but maybe that is ignorance on my part. What adverse effects are eliminated by using a stiffener?
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
- dusty
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algale wrote:Never used one either. Although some say it helps prevent wobble on thin-kerf blades.
Do you have wobble when using a Shopsmith thin kerf blade? It is my opinion that the arbor used with a Shopsmith blades has the same effect as a stiffener.
It is easy to tell if you have wobble. Just measure your blade and then measure a kerf cut.
When I make ZCIs, I check the kerf expecting it to be 3/32". The kerf doesn't remain 3/32" very long though for obvious reasons.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Common - Get Real!
I'm Sorry, but I wish to put a little realism in here!! Wobble/bobble.
Wobble make for nice discussion on a forum or at a coffee clutch, or bridge club, but what are the effects?
Had anyone ever seen adverse affects from blade wobble? Never heard of some!!
Just what extremely precise wood projects is a craftsman working on where any wobble from a blade is noticeable or ruins a project? What is the project? Hmmm - must be a wooden "O" ring for a rocket booster, or something like that! Gotta be in imagination only!
Wobble make for nice discussion on a forum or at a coffee clutch, or bridge club, but what are the effects?
Had anyone ever seen adverse affects from blade wobble? Never heard of some!!
Just what extremely precise wood projects is a craftsman working on where any wobble from a blade is noticeable or ruins a project? What is the project? Hmmm - must be a wooden "O" ring for a rocket booster, or something like that! Gotta be in imagination only!
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
I'm not sure I even have a Shopsmith thin-kerf blade. My only Shopsmith blade is a combination blade marked with the number 555001. I don't see any description on the blade referencing it being thin-kerf and I can't find any literature on it. I tried to measure a tooth and get about .125 on my calipers, which I think of as full-kerf. Anybody with an old catalog know whether 555001 was advertised as thin-kerf or full-kerf?dusty wrote:Do you have wobble when using a Shopsmith thin kerf blade? It is my opinion that the arbor used with a Shopsmith blades has the same effect as a stiffener.
It is easy to tell if you have wobble. Just measure your blade and then measure a kerf cut.
When I make ZCIs, I check the kerf expecting it to be 3/32". The kerf doesn't remain 3/32" very long though for obvious reasons.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
0.125= ?
The on-line Catalog doesn't show 555001 or 1/8" kerf, 10" saw blades. So I went to my ol' standby - the 2007 Holiday paper Catalog.
What-d'-y-know! Page 36 shows all the Shopsmith 10" saw blades. There is a NOTE at the top of the page.
"NOTE: All 10" Shopsmith Saw Blades require a 1 1/4" Shopsmith Saw Arbor. All Carbide-Tipped Blades are thin kerf (3/32" blades)."
Since there is no blade with part no. 55501 I cannot tell you the width. But I assume it is 1/8" kerf.
Do you suppose .125" = 1/8"?
What-d'-y-know! Page 36 shows all the Shopsmith 10" saw blades. There is a NOTE at the top of the page.
"NOTE: All 10" Shopsmith Saw Blades require a 1 1/4" Shopsmith Saw Arbor. All Carbide-Tipped Blades are thin kerf (3/32" blades)."
Since there is no blade with part no. 55501 I cannot tell you the width. But I assume it is 1/8" kerf.
Do you suppose .125" = 1/8"?
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Thanks, Charlese. Somewhere along the line I thought I had read that Shopsmith had gone to all thin-kerfs around 1996. Since my machine is a 2001, I had always believed the Shopsmith blade was thin-kerf. I even convinced myself that it looked thinner than my full-kerf Forrest WWII and that the motor strained less with the Shopsmith blade on. But I had never actually thrown a caliper on it until today. I was so sure it was thin-kerf, I didn't want to believe my own caliper readings (and yes, I know that 1/8 = .125charlese wrote:The on-line Catalog doesn't show 555001 or 1/8" kerf, 10" saw blades. So I went to my ol' standby - the 2007 Holiday paper Catalog.
What-d'-y-know! Page 36 shows all the Shopsmith 10" saw blades. There is a NOTE at the top of the page.
"NOTE: All 10" Shopsmith Saw Blades require a 1 1/4" Shopsmith Saw Arbor. All Carbide-Tipped Blades are thin kerf (3/32" blades)."
Since there is no blade with part no. 55501 I cannot tell you the width. But I assume it is 1/8" kerf.
Do you suppose .125" = 1/8"?
I guess one of these days I'll have to try a real thin-kerf blade and see what kind of difference it makes.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!