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Dial micrometer mount - simple version
Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 11:30 am
by bobgroh
Almost a trivial little gadget but here goes. I recently bought an inexpensive dial micrometer from Harbor Freight ($20 or so and works quite well) and I wanted a simple way to mount it (using the miter gauge slot) and use it when aligning my 510 and (ta-da!!) my 520.
[ATTACH]23380[/ATTACH]
This is my rather simple little wood bracket I built to hold the dial micrometer. I opted to use the miter gauge itself and I just clamp my little assembly to the gauge.
[ATTACH]23381[/ATTACH]
You can just flip around the miter gauge to measure on the other side.
[ATTACH]23382[/ATTACH]
And here are two shots of the simple mount - just cut a piece of 1x2 pine, a bit of gluing, sanding and a quick coat of shellac.
[ATTACH]23384[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23383[/ATTACH]
Eventually I'll probably eliminate the need to use the miter gauge. Maybe. Or just leave it alone! It gets the job done.
Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 12:29 pm
by dusty
bobgroh wrote:Almost a trivial little gadget but here goes. I recently bought an inexpensive dial micrometer from Harbor Freight ($20 or so and works quite well) and I wanted a simple way to mount it (using the miter gauge slot) and use it when aligning my 510 and (ta-da!!) my 520.
[ATTACH]23380[/ATTACH]
This is my rather simple little wood bracket I built to hold the dial micrometer. I opted to use the miter gauge itself and I just clamp my little assembly to the gauge.
[ATTACH]23381[/ATTACH]
You can just flip around the miter gauge to measure on the other side.
[ATTACH]23382[/ATTACH]
And here are two shots of the simple mount - just cut a piece of 1x2 pine, a bit of gluing, sanding and a quick coat of shellac.
[ATTACH]23384[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]23383[/ATTACH]
Eventually I'll probably eliminate the need to use the miter gauge. Maybe. Or just leave it alone! It gets the job done.
That looks to be a real neat solution to a common task. How much deviation does the miter bar create? I would guess about .005" which is really negligible.
Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 4:11 pm
by Jack Wilson
I like it, neccessity is the mother of invention strikes again.
Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 4:40 pm
by benush26
Very nice!
Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 10:14 pm
by bobgroh
dusty wrote:That looks to be a real neat solution to a common task. How much deviation does the miter bar create? I would guess about .005" which is really negligible.
I've just started playing with it - the table itself hasn't been aligned at all although the overall deviation along the saw blade is 15 thou or less. I have always wondered how flat a saw blade is, etc. Now I can play around a bit and see! But first I need to get some other work done and then I will mount my 'new' 520 table and get it aligned. And check saw blades and the sanding disks for flatness and a few other little twitches. I've been seriously thinking about picking up a Wixey digital angle gauge for aligning things also.
Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 10:11 am
by mountainbreeze
Here is a thread I started a while back with my version of a jig for aligning the table using a dial indicator.
Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:50 pm
by terrydowning
That could also be clamped to the lathe tool rest for checking runout on the shaft. Could it not?
Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 12:54 pm
by JPG
terrydowning wrote:That could also be clamped to the lathe tool rest for checking runout on the shaft. Could it not?
Ya checking shaft runout or way tube runout or most likely the combination of the two!;)
Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 1:10 pm
by dusty
terrydowning wrote:That could also be clamped to the lathe tool rest for checking runout on the shaft. Could it not?
Yes, it could. In fact, I am going to play with that idea this afternoon. There was no saw dust scheduled but I need tinker time and that will be a good way to get it.
JPG: Please explain "way tube runout".
Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 2:07 pm
by bobgroh
[quote="JPG40504"]Ya checking shaft runout or way tube runout or most likely the combination of the two!]
The way tubes probably wouldn't be a factor if you didn't move the carriage. Which is probably a good idea not to do since things wiggle around a bit anyways - i.e. lock everything down that you can and then only turn the output shaft (gently!).