Lathe chuck compatibility?

[phillsam]

Hey guys,

I have been wanting to get an inexpensive chuck to try for a while before committing to a nice one.

I am seeing chucks (per Grizzly's site) that say 5/8" unthreaded. How do they secure? Will this be a direct fit?

here is a link --

5/8” unthreaded 4 jaw—http://www.grizzly.com/products/H8047

5/8” unthreaded 3 jaw (self centering)—http://www.grizzly.com/products/H8032

I have also seen adapters to 1x8tpi, but I would prefer not to buy adapters.

Please let me know if those would work on the shopsmith spindle

[scollins]

A 5/8 unthreaded inset is a blank sleeve that has to have a set screw to hold it on the shaft. I have owned a couple of different SS's plus a variety of attachments and have yet to spot an angled set screw. Since the set screw has to be turned to be tightened it would be extremely difficult to line the angle perfectly on the shaft and I suspect that it would contribute to wear and tear of the shaft. The angle of the shaft should help snug the accessory tight against the shaft and then resist working it's way back off as the screw would have to climb uphill to allow that to happen. That said, I have had the original equipment saw arbor screw loosen during use and have a chuck that does the same. I have learned to tighten those screws turn it on turn it off and retighten. Then I have no more issues with the screws until I remove the accessory and put it back on. I have made custom faceplates using 5/8 stop collars welded to flat plates and to quality plumbing flanges (not pot metal) with no worries of failure. My first chuck was a non-self centering metal lathe chuck with an insert my brother machined from round stock. It worked perfectly, but centering was a task.

I have a $7000 custom lathe that came from the previous owner with 24 faceplates and no chuck. Since it is a 36x48" over the ways and can go much bigger with an outboard tool rest I doubt that I will be comfortable holding anything that size in a chuck. I did get a chuck for it, but will use for smaller stuff. I just reversed a 30-40# cherry burl that was secured by a faceplate/worm screw and the live center. It is now secured by the worm screw and wood screws thru the faceplate in preparation to remove the live center once I remove more of the core and get ready to finish the bowl. Nothing beats a healthily doze of common sense. This puppy can be on and set to turn at 1 rpm if you want to.

As for a chuck use your faceplate until you can get a quality one.

[JPG]

A 5/8 unthreaded inset is a blank sleeve that has to have a set screw to hold it on the shaft. I have owned a couple of different SS's plus a variety of attachments and have yet to spot an angled set screw. Since the set screw has to be turned to be tightened it would be extremely difficult to line the angle perfectly on the shaft and I suspect that it would contribute to wear and tear of the shaft. The angle of the shaft should help snug the accessory tight against the shaft and then resist working it's way back off as the screw would have to climb uphill to allow that to happen. That said, I have had the original equipment saw arbor screw loosen during use and have a chuck that does the same. I have learned to tighten those screws turn it on turn it off and retighten. Then I have no more issues with the screws until I remove the accessory and put it back on. I have made custom faceplates using 5/8 stop collars welded to flat plates and to quality plumbing flanges (not pot metal) with no worries of failure. My first chuck was a non-self centering metal lathe chuck with an insert my brother machined from round stock. It worked perfectly, but centering was a task.

I have a $7000 custom lathe that came from the previous owner with 24 faceplates and no chuck. Since it is a 36x48" over the ways and can go much bigger with an outboard tool rest I doubt that I will be comfortable holding anything that size in a chuck. I did get a chuck for it, but will use for smaller stuff. I just reversed a 30-40# cherry burl that was secured by a faceplate/worm screw and the live center. It is now secured by the worm screw and wood screws thru the faceplate in preparation to remove the live center once I remove more of the core and get ready to finish the bowl. Nothing beats a healthily doze of common sense. This puppy can be on and set to turn at 1 rpm if you want to.

As for a chuck use your faceplate until you can get a quality one.

You will not likely observe the 'angle' by looking at short set screws. Older arbors(10E/ER) were not tapered, but they were either larger(3/8-16) or double.

I do not know when the taper first occurred on arbors, but the nova(?) adapter definitely had issues one of which was the lack of the screw angle.

Common sense, of course, but the proper set screw is not cupped nor serrated, so they will tend to loosen if not properly tightened.

Beware the PP exacerbates these problems.