Shopsmith Forums

As I look at pictures of the SS-Incra v120 it appears that the grip is adapted to the 120 via an aluminum block attached at the front, a short knob in place of the Incra handle and what looks to be a knurled knob replacing the small degree adjustment knob at the rear (and possibly connected to the grip)
In my imagination or a fantasy I thought I saw an Incra other than the 120 or 27 utilizing the SS grip. Yes, I thought it was on this site! However, I cannot seem to find that picture so it could be my cabin fever imagination!!:eek:

I would like to add the SS grip to my 1000SE (I've got the miter express/1000SE combo in SS trim). Has someone done this modification? Did it take much more than a small block of aluminum (possibly drilled and tapped), replacing the Incra handle and degree knob?

As much as I too often enjoy reinventing the wheel , I would like to make this mod if it can be done with a few parts and a modicum of profanity!

Help, clues, knowledge and wise directions will be appreciated. If I am completely off the rails and no one has done this and it is completely my imagination, please be gentle when making me put on the white jacket with very long sleeves!

Be well,
Ben

benush26 wrote:As I look at pictures of the SS-Incra v120 it appears that the grip is adapted to the 120 via an aluminum block attached at the front, a short knob in place of the Incra handle and what looks to be a knurled knob replacing the small degree adjustment knob at the rear (and possibly connected to the grip)
In my imagination or a fantasy I thought I saw an Incra other than the 120 or 27 utilizing the SS grip. Yes, I thought it was on this site! However, I cannot seem to find that picture so it could be my cabin fever imagination!!:eek:

I would like to add the SS grip to my 1000SE (I've got the miter express/1000SE combo in SS trim). Has someone done this modification? Did it take much more than a small block of aluminum (possibly drilled and tapped), replacing the Incra handle and degree knob?

As much as I too often enjoy reinventing the wheel , I would like to make this mod if it can be done with a few parts and a modicum of profanity!

Help, clues, knowledge and wise directions will be appreciated. If I am completely off the rails and no one has done this and it is completely my imagination, please be gentle when making me put on the white jacket with very long sleeves!

Be well,
Ben

Before investing too much time on the problem of attaching the Shopsmith miter grip to the 1000SE, I'd advise measuring how far the 1000SE protractor head extends beyond the miter slot. I'm pretty sure you will run into interference --at least on the left slot at least with the table tilted. I say this because I think even the smaller head on the Shopsmith miter gauge will hit the blade from the left slot with the table tilted. Not good but at least the Shopsmith miter head is aluminum. You don't want to run a steel protractor like on the 1000SE into the blade. Even if you will only use it in the right hand side miter slot, make sure there is clearance between the head and the blade both at 90 degrees and at the maximum protractor angles in both directions and with the table tilted.

Assuming you have the clearance with the 1000SE, there's also the issue about the miter bar itself. I don't believe there's an Incra miter bar that both is compatible with the Shopsmith slot and the 1000SE head.

Since you already have the Miter Express, why don't you just buy the Shopsmith miter bar that fits the Miter Express and use it with the 1000SE on the Shopsmith?

algale wrote:Before investing too much time on the problem of attaching the Shopsmith miter grip to the 1000SE, I'd advise measuring how far the 1000SE protractor head extends beyond the miter slot. I'm pretty sure you will run into interference --at least on the left slot at least with the table tilted. I say this because I think even the smaller head on the Shopsmith miter gauge will hit the blade from the left slot with the table tilted. Not good but at least the Shopsmith miter head is aluminum. You don't want to run a steel protractor like on the 1000SE into the blade. Even if you will only use it in the right hand side miter slot, make sure there is clearance between the head and the blade both at 90 degrees and at the maximum protractor angles in both directions and with the table tilted.

Assuming you have the clearance with the 1000SE, there's also the issue about the miter bar itself. I don't believe there's an Incra miter bar that both is compatible with the Shopsmith slot and the 1000SE head.

Since you already have the Miter Express, why don't you just buy the Shopsmith miter bar that fits the Miter Express and use it with the 1000SE on the Shopsmith?

Algale,
Thanks for the reply. My Miter Express will already accept the Shopsmith miter gauge in the track next to the one that fits theirs (in this case a 1000SE). Nothing more to buy, adjust, etc.

My goal is to be able to use the Shopsmith grip function on the 1000SE. I have an extra SS miter that I bought cheaply for the purpose of fitting the grip if I could.

Background...One of the side effects of platinum based chemotherapy was a condition called neuropathy. If you don't know about it, though the cancer gets nailed, so do the nerve endings in extremities. I don't feel much with my fingers. Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy to be on this side of the concrete, but I sometimes need to make allowances for tasks that require a grip with my fingers. I'd much rather squeeze the grip on the Shopsmith miter to hold work in place instead of holding it by hand. When I use the Incra sled and miter gauge, I do have T-track fasteners as a substitute to hold pieces, but that can get slow and tedious loosening and clamping, especially when cutting lots of small pieces. I appreciate the ability to quickly and VERY accurately set a miter angle using the 1000SE, so being greedy and wanting it all, I am trying to figure a way to have my cake, ice cream and saw dust all at the same time!:o

Having looked at the V120 modified for the Shopsmith grip and my 1000SE (which I way to often refer to as the 1000HD!! ), it seems that the aluminum block is the key.

Hence, my request for information (that may or may not exist).

Again, thanks for the thoughts and ideas. The effort is appreciated.

Be well,
Ben

Hi,

I can't say I recall anyone posting about this here. Of course I might have missed it.

How close to the v120 does the angle bar look? It could be that if you contact Mark at Incra he might be able to tell you if those bars are interchangeable. Then if one were to get the v120 angle and the drilled and milled part you might be out some money but you would have what you are looking for.

You could build your own of course, it doesn't look that hard.

The question might be if you have the incra fence mounted with the 1000SE do you think you will still have enough room to use the shopsmith grip and still "grip" the wood well enough? Just wondering.

Ed

reible wrote:Hi,

The question might be if you have the incra fence mounted with the 1000SE do you think you will still have enough room to use the shopsmith grip and still "grip" the wood well enough? Just wondering.

Ed

Hi Ed,
That was one of my biggest concerns! I went out into the receding lake I call a garage (WAY too much melting snow for the french drain to handle!) and brought in a SS miter gauge along with the 1000SE (already had the sled inside)

It appears that I can use the same rear fastening point by replacing the one screw, The aluminum block will probably have to be custom because the holes where it would mount on the V120 are not the same as the 1000, but that is as simple as buying a chunk of aluminum which I'd have to do anyway and having one big hole tapped and drilled and two smaller holes drilled to attach to the angle plate
At first glance, with the 1000SE extended fence attached, the amount of material that would be held down by the grip is just the width of the shoe.

A while back I did buy one of these
[ATTACH]24342[/ATTACH]

so I might just see what I can with it.

I did look at the position of the v120 and 1000SE in relation to the angle bar and they seem close. If I want to remove the extension bar from the 1000SE, I presume that will give me significantly more space!

Maybe I should forget about speed and just be excited I can do it at all!

Thanks for the ideas and insight!

Be well,
Ben