Shopsmith Forums

Has anyone adapted a 24" Flatmaster drum sander to the Mark V tubes. From what the folks at Stockroom Supply told me the choices were to modify the Flatmaster "legs" to allow direct connect to the Shopsmith PowerPro headstock or to build a platform to sit the Flatmaster on and drive it with the pulley and linkbelt via the PowerPro headstock.

I would appreciate to see how others have addressed this issue.

Thanks, dpjbmac

Not exactly what you are asking, but...

This is how I mounted an 18" V-Drum sander on my 10ER.

Mounted
[ATTACH]24673[/ATTACH]

Top open
[ATTACH]24674[/ATTACH]

and the bottom
[ATTACH]24675[/ATTACH]

At present it just sits on the table but I am getting a bit of vibration towards the right end so I will be adding some more bracing and a way to clamp it to the table.

Here is a post from a few years back when I built a sand flee sort of sander:

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5342

You can either wade through for lots of details or work backwards to where you can see how I mount it/dust collect/attachment options etc....

BTW I don't know if I've mentioned it in a while but it is still working fine. And no this is not a thickness sander, it is more like a powered hand sander.

Ed

Flatmaster video on YouTube.

It occurred to me while watching the video that you could square an edge if it had a fence.

Wow, these are expensive. I can see why you would want to make your own.

I enjoy making cutting boards and almost always end up with a board not flat following the glue up process. I am looking for a way to flatten the boards before applying the finish.

I like the idea of adapting the device to the Mark V with the PowerPro headstock

DP

Have a look at this thread.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9972

Yes, I built a fancy one, I think it is the 30" V drum, but might be 24".
It MOUNTS on, and is driven by the shopsmith. 4 short round legs fit
into the table saw mount holes and the end mount holes, which it overhangs.
Basically is a BOX, based on the Stockroom supply DRUM SANDER PLANS.
Has a large 4" vacuum connection, and a 120 Outlet. Hooks to motor
with standard shipsmith accessory connector. Top is made of 2 thicknesses of 1 inch mdf, so very stirdy. Formica (not melamine) top.
The base has cutouts (reduces weight a little) for handling.
I am still working on mounting the full length OVERHEAD roller to provide
even pressure. Once hinged lid is open, there is lots of storage inside
for folls of the special sand paper, etc. , and all the accessories for my downdraft palm sander table.

SORRY, I have no photos of the Drum sander part of it, nor any plans.
It is essentually based on the stockroom supply design sized for SS.
All lost to a disc crash. It is also currently not real accessable to
take new photos. HOWEVER, I did add a drop on downdraft sanding
table that covers the V drum and formica top. Since the box has a good
vacuum draw and the box has 120V power outlet this all works nicely
for palm sanding. I made holdowns/wedges for parts being sanded, palm
sander paper cutter, a palm sander parking pad (even if still running),etc. I have photos of those, ATTACHED, the drum sander is hidden underneath.
You can see the round mounting feet. Peg board holes were all enlarged
and beveled.

Gort

Merry Christmas all. Here is a version of a surface sander I built a while back. It works really well and will handle up to 30 inch wide by 3 inches thick stock. The drums are made from 5 inch aluminum tubing and are end capped with maple. One end uses a live center and on the other end a 3 inch faceplate. I have three drums for utilizing different grits. I have had a Grizzly surface sander and this is a far better system. It takes about two minutes to change drums/grits and is accurate to .01 inches for cabinet doors. The variable speed makes it even better.
Paul

SWEET!!! Great job!

I'D love to hear more details bout how you made it and sources of parts, how the feed works etc...

Again looks great.....

I can start a new thread later today and give you all the info. The feed is manual which is a personal preference. It would be relatively easy to build a power feed for it. The hardware is readily available stuff. The tubes are from a local metal supplier and trued up on the SHOPSMITH.
Paul