My wife asked me to make some shelves similar to these she found on Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/128853679/storage-shelves-honeycomb-shelving-wood?ref=listing-shop-header-3
The wood they used is new to me - presumably a laminate with wood grain on three sides and a variety of colors available on the surface used for the inside of the shelves…the colored surface appears to be melamine. Any idea where they got this wood or, presuming it's not something readily available as is, how they made it? In all likelihood I'll just make them out of real wood but I have to admit I kinda like the look of the colored melamine on the inside surface.
Type of Wood?
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Type of Wood?
'78 Mark V 500 #27995 (my Dad bought new)
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
- RobertTaylor
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 569
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:28 am
- Location: North Canton, Ohio
shelves
it looks like the inside is painted to me
Bob
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
I agree with Bob
One of the reviews gives it away:
"These shelves were well worth the wait! I ordered them in pine and had them painted in persian colour. They were easy to put up, vibrant and authentic."
Forrest
"These shelves were well worth the wait! I ordered them in pine and had them painted in persian colour. They were easy to put up, vibrant and authentic."
Forrest
Forrest
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
Huntington Beach, CA
1985 500->510->520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, PowerPro, double-tilt, 3" casters,(now obsolete) speed increaser
The description says birch hardwood, but rather than birch hardwood, I would presume that you could get similar painted surface results using Baltic Birch plywood at a significant savings. The face of BB plywood will take paint quite well, especially if you use a surface sealer before painting.
If you get a wide enough Walnut (or what ever species) verneer, you could wrap around match grain on the narrow sides. Though it does not look like solid wood, but it does give an interesting appearance.
BB plywood cuts and glues well (even the edges!!), so you can make nice miter joints. I've even used biscuits at mitered corners. There are no gaps in the plys.
As a different aside approach, you might just get narrow walnut banding strips for the edges and paint one face while staining the other.
Not sure any of the above helps. Have fun making them.
Be well,
Ben
If you get a wide enough Walnut (or what ever species) verneer, you could wrap around match grain on the narrow sides. Though it does not look like solid wood, but it does give an interesting appearance.
BB plywood cuts and glues well (even the edges!!), so you can make nice miter joints. I've even used biscuits at mitered corners. There are no gaps in the plys.
As a different aside approach, you might just get narrow walnut banding strips for the edges and paint one face while staining the other.
Not sure any of the above helps. Have fun making them.
Be well,
Ben
Like Ben said, the add says - "Featured item is Birch Hardwood with Walnut exterior and Sage interior"
I agree with Ben about making them yourself, except I would use wood rather than plywood. Once you get the angle of the table set the rest would be a snap. Except for finishing, of course.
So far I'm buffaloed about where to put the keyhole cut outs. Once that is figured out, a router bit and a jig should get them evenly and horizontally spaced.
I agree with Ben about making them yourself, except I would use wood rather than plywood. Once you get the angle of the table set the rest would be a snap. Except for finishing, of course.
So far I'm buffaloed about where to put the keyhole cut outs. Once that is figured out, a router bit and a jig should get them evenly and horizontally spaced.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I'm guessing on the upper half just above the side apexes. Rotate hex shape to hang on second 'nail'.charlese wrote:Like Ben said, the add says - "Featured item is Birch Hardwood with Walnut exterior and Sage interior"
I agree with Ben about making them yourself, except I would use wood rather than plywood. Once you get the angle of the table set the rest would be a snap. Except for finishing, of course.
So far I'm buffaloed about where to put the keyhole cut outs. Once that is figured out, a router bit and a jig should get them evenly and horizontally spaced.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange