Shopsmith Forums

Well, the daggone Kitchen oven had the same control fail for the 2nd time in 5 years....

I wasn't too impressed with the 'universal' replacement they sold me last time; it allows some flimsy plastic tips to be placed on the shaft once it's sawn to length. The applicable plastic tip is what broke on me lately:
[ATTACH]25896[/ATTACH]

Decided to use some brass tubing from my pen-turning supplies to work up a 'fix'. This is not the actual process, since I didn't know if it would work. But it seems to be holding, so some re-enactment steps are shown in photos.

I 'flared' a short piece of brass tubing to fit just around the remaining metal shaft:
[ATTACH]25898[/ATTACH]


At one end of the brass tube, I made the "half moon" cut with a Dremel cutoff wheel. Yes, that's another machinist-chest being restored in the background:
[ATTACH]25897[/ATTACH]


Using the JB Weld stick-epoxy, I filled the brass shaft / half-moon, and put everything together within 5 minutes. After drying, it works as well as the rest of the controls :
[ATTACH]25899[/ATTACH]

Chris, if you think our Shopsmiths are just for working on wood, you're not thinking ahead. (But, from the looks of it, you ARE thinking ahead!)

A long time ago, when I had my first Model 10, I also had a real Dodge van, with a bad motor. I picked up a rebuildible motor from a local junk yard, but the crank looked a bit dodgy. (Main and rod journals were scuffed and rusty.) It was a 360, quite possible the worst Mopar motor ever.

I hung the crank on the easiest accessible fixture, (my 10 ER) and hand sanded the journals back into decent shape. The drive spur fit inside the transmission end, and the tailstock dead center fit in the front end. No, I didn't use any power, just hung the crank between centers and turned it by hand.

Put another 10,000 miles on that engine, before I traded the van.

steve