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Making A Storm Door

Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 6:10 pm
by WmZiggy
The storm door on my machine shed, which I made in 2003, had some joint problems at the top and bottom coping. I was going to repair them, but ended-up making a whole new door. It's made out of recycled wood. Pine in the panel, birch for the frame. All the wood had 40 yrs + age. They were SS jointed and run through the SS planer, then coped with the SS shaper. Here it is dry fitted after all parts where shaped.

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The floating panel was hand cut with a panel raising plane. The plane was made by James Moir of Glasgow, Scotland in 1836. It has a skew blade and cuts beautifully.

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I used a Stanley #289 skew rabbit plane to bring front and back of the panel to just under 1/4" and a depth of 3/8" to sit in the coping.

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Here is the panel dry fitted. I attached a medallion - feeling artistic! :D

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Glue-up.

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Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:54 pm
by nuhobby
Great work as always! Thanks for the photos and techniques.

Very nice door and beautiful presentation.

Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 10:11 pm
by charlese
Excellent work, Wm.!! Absolutely no joint problems for this Winter. Gotta keep that machine shop cozy!:)

Atta Boy WmZiggy!!!!!

Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:28 am
by WmZiggy
Thanks guys! I was amazed how smooth it all went. The worst part was pulling the tape off the glass after painting. And it was blue tape too.

Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:40 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
Ziggy,
The worst part was pulling the tape off the glass after painting. And it was blue tape too.
Was it the paint overflow or the tape adhesive holding it on?
Now there are so many tapes out there, and now pretty much color coated for "days left on".
Regular light tan masking tape the worst for getting off, then the blue, the green or yellow the easiest. Most say on them, except the original light tan "masking tape" Gorilla, I think it is them, has a whole line of them now.

Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:50 am
by WmZiggy
What I did was lay the tape about 1/8" from where the cope and glass meet. That way I could lay down a bead of latex calk uniform around the edges on both sides. Then it was painted. Took a couple of days. On those places where the calk lapped the tape - no fault of moi you understand :D - it really played hell coming off. I had to use razor blades and carefully match both sides of the glass. I was hoping to lift the tape and be done with it.

I am not sure it was the fault of the tape, but rather the calk. Laying that stuff is an art form.

But I appreciate the thoughts on the other color tape. I have never tried the green or yellow, although I've seen it. Also, the blue seemed to really grasp the glass, which is understandable. I think it is made for wood and sheet rock.

Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:30 pm
by beeg
Did ya REMOVE the tape VERY SOON after painting it? I've found that if ya don't pull the tape off VERY SOON after painting. It leaves a ragged edge and may pull off the paint in strips. I'd almost be afraid to tape off something your going to caulk. Because it might string and make a mess.

Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:54 pm
by charlese
Has anyone tried the "Frog Tape" that I see advertised on T.V.? It' supposed to seal and can be used on newly painted surfaces. It is advertised to be used with water based paint.

Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:05 pm
by WmZiggy
I let it dry. Taking it off while wet never occurred to me.