Shopsmith Forums

Gents, I am now the owner of a Shopsmith 10ER. It was my wife's Grandfathers, passed to her father and just recently when my father in law passed away no one wanted anything to do with it. I jumped at the opportunity to pick it up because I have always wanted to learn to work with wood. Now that I have this new toy at home I don't even know where to begin. Im going to take my time and clean it up real good and then slowly try to learn the machines in's and out's. Please take a look at some of my pics and give me feed back.

Nice looking 10. I was using mine just today as a saw and horizontal boring unit as the Mark 7 was tied up in overhead router mode. Looks like you have a nice collection of extras. There will be a few more people chime in here that know a lot more than I do, but welcome to the "club". It can't be cured LOL.

Dick

You done good!

You now have a fairly rare animal. 4E jointer etc, a speed changer, 3 disk sanding plates and IIUC, a ring-master!!!!

I did not notice a drill chuck, but that is easily 'fixed'.

A word of warning, do not allow the springs on the speed changer to become fully compressed EVER! They are on the control shaft at the fixed arm location.

Saw blades???

The one looks already 'compressed'.

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JPG40504 wrote:You done good!

You now have a fairly rare animal. 4E jointer etc, a speed changer, 3 disk sanding plates and IIUC, a ring-master!!!!

I did not notice a drill chuck, but that is easily 'fixed'.

A word of warning, do not allow the springs on the speed changer to become fully compressed EVER! They are on the control shaft at the fixed arm location.

Saw blades???

JPG, please tell me what you refer to as IIUC and what is the ring master. Sorry to ask dumb questions but I'm starting from square 1.
What are the repercussions of a fully compressed spring? Will it need to be replaced?

Only came with the one rusty blade. Are these not standard size blades I can pick up anywhere? I have a chuck. I'll grab some pics tomorrow. I need to get it all scrubbed up and lubed down.

I hope to be able to use it to make patio furniture and just possibly speakers.

aginhouse wrote:JPG, please tell me what you refer to as IIUC and what is the ring master. Sorry to ask dumb questions but I'm starting from square 1.
What are the repercussions of a fully compressed spring? Will it need to be replaced?

Only came with the one rusty blade. Are these not standard size blades I can pick up anywhere? I have a chuck. I'll grab some pics tomorrow. I need to get it all scrubbed up and lubed down.

I hope to be able to use it to make patio furniture and just possibly speakers.

IIUC = IF I UNDERSTAND CORRECTLY

A RING MASTER IS A DEVICE THAT ALLOWS ONE TO MAKE 'BOWLS'.'VASES' FROM FLAT BOARDS.

The saw blades are standard with a 5/8" arbor. Be aware that the 10 is an 8 inch design.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-Jacobs-Drill-Chuck-and-Key-/141388784334?pt=Power_Tools&hash=item20eb6da2ce
I found this before your last post

JPG40504 wrote:IIUC = IF I UNDERSTAND CORRECTLY

A RING MASTER IS A DEVICE THAT ALLOWS ONE TO MAKE 'BOWLS'.'VASES' FROM FLAT BOARDS.

The saw blades are standard with a 5/8" arbor. Be aware that the 10 is an 8 inch design.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shopsmith-Jacobs-Drill-Chuck-and-Key-/141388784334?pt=Power_Tools&hash=item20eb6da2ce
I found this before your last post

Got it. Thank you sir

I missed the most important question.

The springs do not break. The ears on the fixed pivot or the movable one do break. An all too common occurrence. If the springs do not get fully compressed when making speed adjustments, the ears will not break.

So the purpose of the springs is to make sure excessive force is not applied to the ears. The 'secret is to make speed adjustments slowly so the movable sheave has time to respond. The 10 differs from the later models in that damage can occur when adjusting either towards fast or slow.

Let me help, if possible.

Adjusting the settings on the speedchanger, ONLY do it with the belts turning. Either put one of your 3 (lucky you) sanding discs on, and turn by hand, or just plug it in and run it. Like JPG said, do NOT do it with nothing turning, and do it slowly, until you get a feel for it.

Saw blades. Any 8 inch, or even 7 1/4th inch blades will work, but you can cut deeper with an 8 inch blade. 5/8ths inch hole, to line up with your 5/8ths arbor.

Treat it well. It has lasted a LOT longer than anyone else's Mark whatever. (And, is {in my humble opinion} built better. You can build a Mark whatever with a Model 10. (Shopsmith is STILL using Model 10s on the production floor.) Try building a Model 10 with a Mark X.

Oh, enjoy your new hernia. That thing is HEAVY!:D

steve

aginhouse wrote:Gents, I am now the owner of a Shopsmith 10ER. It was my wife's Grandfathers, passed to her father and just recently when my father in law passed away no one wanted anything to do with it. I jumped at the opportunity to pick it up because I have always wanted to learn to work with wood. Now that I have this new toy at home I don't even know where to begin. Im going to take my time and clean it up real good and then slowly try to learn the machines in's and out's. Please take a look at some of my pics and give me feed back.

Welcome to the forum!

If you don't have the original paper manuals, you can download a set of them from vintagemachinery.org. A great resource. The old newsletters to be found there will give you many ideas and insights for using the machine. It is amazingly versatile.