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Carriage thingy

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 4:46 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
I cant find the thread that went there so starting a new one.
Hencle, God save the Queen!!!
All of my Ers carriage and HS locks look the same, but on the dedicated DP the table will move unless REALLY Gorriladed!!!
They all have a shiny area, with a slight radius to them, I dont know if from wear or by design, and if that is the problem ?
It shows up the best in the first pic.

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:10 am
by "Wild Bad Bob"
B4 you go there JPG, I KNOW you notice everything, I wanted them in oragne but they were out of them in my size, so I got the yellow ones!!! I am flamboyant!!!:cool:

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:26 am
by skou
Bob, I've got 2 suggestions.

#1, switch them around, and see if the loose one moves. (Put the carriage one in the headstock or quill position, and see if the quill or headstock has issues locking down.

#2, remove the screw, and sand down the front end, to see if you're bottoming out in the hole. (Or, look at the front end, and see if they have been hitting the bottom of the hole,)

Oh, the yellow ones look "sweet.":eek: :D

steve

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 1:19 pm
by JPG
L am not familiar with the single wedges. Does the 'screw' mate to a threaded hole in the headstock?

If so, like Skou said, make sure it is not bottoming out in the bore.

That shiny area is minimal wear.

On Mx we file it flat matching the original angle. That may create bottoming out with this one. Measure bore depth and wedge length.

I assume the wedge bolt hole is not tapped.

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 1:55 pm
by skou
Ghost, (JPG) I've got single wedge locks on a couple machines, and I REALLY like them. When you loosen the locks, the wedges are pulled out, not like the 2 wedge locks, that MIGHT have a spring between them. In my experience, the hold just fine, with minimal tightening.

Oh, all 3 locks are pretty much interchangeable, and DO screw into a drilled and tapped hole in the (you all will LOVE this) CAST IRON! 2 in the headstock, one more in the carriage.

steve

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 3:52 pm
by rpd
skou wrote:Ghost, (JPG) I've got single wedge locks on a couple machines, and I REALLY like them. When you loosen the locks, the wedges are pulled out, not like the 2 wedge locks, that MIGHT have a spring between them. In my experience, the hold just fine, with minimal tightening.

Oh, all 3 locks are pretty much interchangeable, and DO screw into a drilled and tapped hole in the (you all will LOVE this) CAST IRON! 2 in the headstock, one more in the carriage.

steve

I thought that too,:confused: but the head stock and carriage locks are about 1 1/8" straight before the bend and the carriage lock is about 1 7/16". If one of the others is put in the quill lock position it will catch on the depth indicator knob before it is tight:(. Don't ask me how I know:o.

[ATTACH]26130[/ATTACH]

One of mine has double wedges and the other has the newer single wedge locks. I prefer the single wedge design myself.

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 4:47 pm
by JPG
Those must be an ER thing.

My E has through bores with two piece wedges and the inner wedge holds a captive nut(hex shaped hole).

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 4:55 pm
by rpd
&quot wrote:Those must be an ER thing.

My E has through bores with two piece wedges and the inner wedge holds a captive nut(hex shaped hole).
The earlier of my ER's has the same, a PITA to remove/reinstall. The later one wedge design just screws out, no hassle.

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:48 pm
by JPG
rpd wrote:The earlier of my ER's has the same, a PITA to remove/reinstall. The later one wedge design just screws out, no hassle.
The modus operandi changes also. The two piece squeezes the way tube between the two line contact wedges. The one piece squeezes the line contact wedge on one side, and the whole side of the way tube bore against the opposite side. I guess the one wedge design would work better(assuming all those things mentioned earlier are not present).

Hmmmmmm a tapped plug in the through bore of mine just might work.

Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 10:33 pm
by skou
&quot wrote:The modus operandi changes also. The two piece squeezes the way tube between the two line contact wedges. The one piece squeezes the line contact wedge on one side, and the whole side of the way tube bore against the opposite side. I guess the one wedge design would work better(assuming all those things mentioned earlier are not present).

Hmmmmmm a tapped plug in the through bore of mine just might work.
If I'm not mistaken, Skip ( http://mkctools.com/ ) made some plugs that went in the back side of the bore, to do just that. But, you still need the single wedge and the single wedge screw.

Ron, I think I said "pretty much interchangeable." The wedge WILL work in any hole, but the screw, not so much. Only reason I wanted him to try different locks, was to troubleshoot the issue.

steve