Shopsmith Forums

Even though I hollow slow grind my plane blades they are too thin for me to freehand sharpen them. Some years ago I purchased the Veritas Mk. II Honing Guide from Lee Valley and have used it for different hone angles except the back bevel setting.

What is nice is that you have a choice of a purely straight edge using the flat included roller or you can camber the edge by using the barrel roller. In this picture I have the blade holder on the flat roller:

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I usually hollow grind the blades to a low angle, around 20 deg, so that my honed angle of 25 to 45 degrees does not require removal of a lot of metal. It is pretty straight-forward to re-hone to the same angle using the Veritas Guide:

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The blade setting device has pin-holes for various angles and the colors are used with the color that the blade holder is set to. In the above picture I am honing a 45 degree angle so the blade holder is set to the red dot and the blade setting device is set to 45 degrees on the red scale. This hone was for a cabinet scraper blade.

I always mark the area to be honed with a red marker to be sure after the first swipe on the stone/paper that I have not made a gross error. I use it to also verify that my re-hone angle has been set correctly and to give me an idea of how much I have to hone. It isn't perfect on setting angles but closer than I can. I have made jigs for blade angles in the past but find this to be much more accurate.

The blade setting device has a marker on it that should be lined up with the blade width markings on the blade holder. Here I am honing a block plane blade of 1 ⅜ inches wide. Doing this sets the blade smack in the middle of the blade holder so you can easily apply even pressure when honing.

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The blade is installed in the blade holder and its projection is set by the indicator on the blade setting device:

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That is a phony setup since I don't hone back bevels and the blade is the wrong side up for a back bevel. Photographic license.

The last picture shows the back side of the blade setting device with the blade edge touching the indicator and parallel to the side of it. This assures that the edge ail be perpendicular to the blade side - assuming you have followed the directions.

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The set comes with good instructions.

I have used it a lot and have yet to find rust on any part. I used waterstones in the past but now am on the "scary sharp" system and the lubricant is honing oil instead of water. That helps.

In all I find the guide easy to use and it gives excellent results.

Forrest

Its one of my favorites.

Thanks for the great review Forrest!
I now have something for my Christmas list.

I have the older and simpler model. The Mk II looks like it has the same brass roller. If it's the same, be aware that if you use it with water stones, stuff can get into the axle of the roller and cause it to stick. Mine did, and I wore a flat spot in it before I discovered the problem.

I have had the Veritas Mk II Honing Guide for a year or so and I have a couple of comments to throw out (warning: I am not terribly good at sharpening stuff!!)

The Mk II is great with plane irons but, like most guides that 'squeeze' the item you are sharpening, it is less than stellar with chisels which (typically) have a slope between the back surface and front surface. This means the chisel blade is basically (one side) being held by a 'line' contact and this can make the chisel very liable to skew to one side or the other as you apply pressure. Depends a bit on how 'hard' the chisel blade is and how much of a slope difference between front and back.

So I am still looking for the 'perfect' sharpening system.

Bob, you might look at
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/chise ... e-reviews/
and maybe find something your like.
Forrest

bobgroh wrote:So I am still looking for the 'perfect' sharpening system.

Pick one sharpening system, any system. Then LEARN to use it over time. You might have to have more than one system to meet all of your sharpening needs.

Certainly a lot of merit to your suggestion to pick one system and stick with it until you've got it! It is also true that many woodworkers have tried a variety of systems and gradually evolve to a system that works for them. I guess I am still on that evolutionary path. I'll get there some day. Maybe before I pass away or the arthritis gets too bad. Maybe. Until then I'll keep hacking away. I've got some diamond stones on my Christmas list - not because they are necessarily better than a good waterstone or better than sandpaper on a flat surface but primarily because they are quicker! And Paul Sellers likes them.

Hi Forrest, I coordinate the Seminar Program at Lee Valley in Coquitlam, BC (just outside Vancouver), and I am a big fan of this guide system as well, using it it our sharpening classes. Your review is very good, well balanced and readable. Do you mind if I forward it to my boss? I'm sure Mr. Lee would appreciate reading it as well.

Derek Darling
10ER user

derekdarling wrote:Hi Forrest, I coordinate the Seminar Program at Lee Valley in Coquitlam, BC (just outside Vancouver)
Derek Darling
10ER user

Hi Derek
I note that you have changed stores.
Is the move a promotion, a better comute or hopefully both?
Best wishes