Shopsmith Forums

I recently acquired the molder head (two actually -- don't ask) and a handful of molder knives. The wife has asked for some picture frames for some prints and paintings so I decided it was time to try it out.

I read/watched everything in the Forum and on the Shopsmith site about the molder. There's really not that much out there about using the molder head so I though I'd post about my little experiment.

Because this was just test I decided to use some scraps of 2x6 that I had milled for another project.

The face profile was cut with the bead & cove molding molder knife (number 555038) in several passes until I achieved full depth.
The cove in the side profile was made with the 1" flute molder knife (number 505573).
These photos are fresh off the molder head itself (and mitered) -- no sanding. Here's the end view:
All in all I think the molder has tremendous possibilities. I did make one mistake. When cutting the flute in the side I forgot to check the carriage lock. When I started the Shopsmith up, there was more vibration than I had experienced with the first cut (using the bead & cove knife) and the carriage drifted and before I could knock off the power I had nibbled a 32nd of an inch off of my molder table insert.

LoL, the photos aren't uploading! I guess the molder will continue to be a mystery accessory!

Hope the photos appear later. Really thinking about getting one!

One reason you do not see much posted about the molder, is a lot of folks are scared to death of them(with good reason). Also most that they do can be done with a shaper or router.

I prefer the molder, but it does have extra risks and requires more diligence when using.

For some reason they seem to demand a premium when being sold used.


BTW anybody know how the 'current' blades/holder differ from previous ones? There are two different 'old' style.

SS says the new style is not compatible with the older. ????????

I recall reading the new molder blades are thicker and assume the new molder head has a wider slot to accommodate the thicker blades. EDIT: Here's what they say: "Note: Molder heads shipped now (September 2011 or later) require newer style, thicker molding knives." http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... erhead.htm

I certainly understand why the molder is potentially dangerous but not why it is (or is perceived as) inherently more dangerous than a shaper. You mention extra risks, what are they in your opinion? Also why do you have a preference for the molder?

algale wrote:I recall reading the new molder blades are thicker and assume the new molder head has a wider slot to accommodate the thicker blades. EDIT: Here's what they say: "Note: Molder heads shipped now (September 2011 or later) require newer style, thicker molding knives." http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... erhead.htm

I certainly understand why the molder is potentially dangerous but not why it is (or is perceived as) inherently more dangerous than a shaper. You mention extra risks, what are they in your opinion? Also why do you have a preference for the molder?

The answer to both questions is due to the same 'thing'. The radius of travel of the cutting edge.

The area between the cutting edge and the head is sufficient to really grab in/on to body parts. The greater radius has the geometry to create smoother cuts.

That extra depth of exposed blade can really throw a workpiece if feed depth is to too deep and/or feed rate is too fast.

I have used both and respect both for what they are. Not sure they are superior to a high speed router except for larger profiles.(my router has a 1/4" collet)(really ancient).

I do not(yet) have a router table, so the SS with table is preferable to me for larger workpieces(and really small workpieces).

Continuing experimentation with the molder and a 2x6. We have some oil paintings with thick, wide, gold leaf frames and I'm trying to do something in the same style.

I am very impressed with what this tool can do with just the handful of profiles I have. The large cove was cut in three passes with the 1 inch cove knives mounted and a temporary fence set at 60 degrees to the cutter. Very little sanding was required. Much smoother than I could get using a table saw blade. I don't have the triple bead knives so the triple bead detail was made with the single bead knives and moving the fence progressively further from the cut. Makes me want more profiles!!!

Damn good looking 2 x 6 !!!!!

Nice joint also????

I would call that a very successful experiment.

I think I see picture frames in your future. Good 45'sbecome extremely important when you cut your own profiled lumber. I tried a couple picture frames to ascertain that I was ready for cove moldings. I was NOT.

Thanks for sharing; we don't see this topic come up often!