Shopsmith Forums

In another thread, two or three of you have reiterated the need for a safety switch (slap switch). I agree that there are some setups in which the on/off switch is not in the most convenient location. I have often thought about installing some sort of shut off that would be more readily available in an emergency. but never did anything about it.

But when I read the discussions today, I decided that I had to correct this situation for myself NOW.

The immediate solution does not employ a slap switch. I have simply relocated the on/off switch to the edge of the table. I have reinitiated a search for the right switch to use.

Doc has implemented a fine solution to this problem. Ed in Tampa alluded to it in a post earlier today.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=178&highlight=sawstop

I posted more pictures in another thread (same subject) but I never implemented the switch.
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachment.htm?attachmentid=1131&d=1205964225

I have now. This is a temporary solution but will remain n place until I complete a new switch panel with a slap switch.

dusty, when I was putting together my shaper/router cabinet, I wanted a paddle type kill switch I could operate with a hip. I was going to build one, then found that both Sears and Rockler carry them. The one from Sears (in the router section. Couldn't find a webpage, but it's a common item) is a 7 amp unit with a lockout/kid safe switch, $19.95. It's probaby a little lightweight for the SS. The Rockler unit is a 15amp unit which is more than adequate for the SS, it's $29.95. I bought the Sears switch for the router table, and ordered the Rockler unit for the SS. Rather than mount the switch on the SS directly, I mounted it on a thigh high, weighted stand, which I can move around as needed (don't have a picture handy, but I'm sure you get the idea). It's operated with a knee or hip, and by mounting it on the stand I can use it for other equipment as I need.

You could also mount the switch in a box, with a couple of rare earth magnets epoxied on the back, and then stick it where you need it. I swear, rare earth magnets are the best damn thing to come along, I use them everywhere in the shop.

Except on aluminum. I had posted my "Stop Sign" Slap switch which I mounted oon an oak board that was contoured to epoxy to the area where the long vertical label is affixed. It is easy to get to. I don't dispute the value of a "portable" switch post, though I have not really had much reason to be in a position to have problems hitting the stop sign. I suppose if one is often at the "off" side of the powerhead, another could be wired in series or parallel(can't recall which is which- I only understand vehicle wiring-hot and ground(earth).mt

Jim, those are good ideas. They are especially good because you have implemented them. You'll never know how many incidents you may have avoided just because they were there.

Do you use the portable switch stand as your primary on/off switch or is this more an emergency shut down?

Thanks for the rare earth magnet idea. These could be used to attach to the way or bench tubes at any location or to the flat sides of the Shopsmith legs (front or back).

I negative thought comes to mind though. An emergency switch is something that you need to be able to reach for instictively. I believe it should be in the same place all the time. There is no time to ask "Now where did I hang that switch panel today"? Moving it around on the way tubes or like I do now may not be good ideas.

You will note that I like this switch well enough to also put it on my Combination OPR. A portable switch always has that risk that on a hurried day, it is not moved to the necessary location. Just my opinion. I do recall that my original posting of this option for safety was well received.mt

mt, this is off topic but:

Do you have two carriages or do you have a main table mounted as an extension table.

Getting back on topic: this is another good idea for the safety switch location

Dusty, I use the kill switch only for emergency shutdown.

And I'm habituated to having the kill switch next to my right knee, which is where I always position it when working.

I certainly understand your and mtobey's point about having the switch always in the same location. For me, that's relative to my body, as opposed to a specific position on the machine, and I'm very careful about making damn sure it's always there. But you should do what works best for you personally. I have a large shop, with a number of stationary tools and, other than as my primary lathe, I use the SS as my multipurpose machine. I'm constantly reconfiguring it for horizonal and vertical boring operations - sometimes a dozen times or more a day - and as such I wanted the kill switch relative to me, not to the machine. But again, you should implement a solution that works for you and your work habits. Like you said, the important thing is to do it. Among many other duties, I was a Navy Safety Officer - so I tend to think safety first, and everything else second, plus I like having all ten fingers.

Another thread mentioned this guy's Ultimate shop bench and I was poking around and found this page he's got where he replaced the power switch for his Delta Contractor's saw.. I thought it might be relevant to this discussion and certainly cheap!

http://christophermerrill.net/ww/shop/TSswitch.html

osx-addict wrote:Another thread mentioned this guy's Ultimate shop bench and I was poking around and found this page he's got where he replaced the power switch for his Delta Contractor's saw.. I thought it might be relevant to this discussion and certainly cheap!

http://christophermerrill.net/ww/shop/TSswitch.html

Osx-addict
I think that is a winner!!!!!!
I think the guy came up with a great idea. Now only thing left to decide is where to mount it.
Thanks for the link!!!
Ed

I priced out making my own switch at Lowes today. A heavy duty 20 amp toggle button light switch was $7, the outdoor cover for it was another $7 and a plastic waterproof box was $5 plus a strain relief for the wires $2 so it appears it would could around $21 I think someone said the paddle switch from Rockler is $29. Mine didn't include any wire so it would almost be even with the wire.

I was going to see if Home Depot has cheaper components.

Ed