Shopsmith Forums

Comments made in the thread titled "Band Saw Resaw Fence" enticed me. I resaw a lot but seldom to really thin dimensions. Because my objective is typically 1/2" thick pieces, I resaw to something greater and then surface plane to the final dimension. The slight deviations in thickness caused by not hugging the fence the entire length of the cut are never an issue.

This "attitude" caused me to have more faith in my band saw than maybe is warranted.

I took to the shop to demonstrate to myself than I could resaw 1/16" pieces with no problem at all. Those of you who use the band saw this way already know what the results are. Defineately not as good as I would have thought.

However, it is not because the Shopsmith Band Saw is incapable. It is because this task is going to require some meticulous set up.

I didn't do that. I checked the blade for perpendicular to the table, mounted a feather board and started cutting. I got some good clean cuts but of inconsistent thickness.

These images tell it all. A stock fence, at least this one, is not precisely square to the table and would not give good results when resawing thin stock.

It became obvious to me that an adjustable fence is required if I am going to do any critical resawing. I do now understand what others have said about their disappointments with resaw results. I did not before this and I more often than not disregarded their criticisms of the Shopsmith Band Saw.

In my specific case, the stock band saw fence is the issue. Once resolved, I will revisit this thread.

How much deviation in thickness should I allow myself for this task? What are the reasonable expectations?

Dusty;
I get what I consider to be good results on my SS bandsaw when resawing. You are correct in that very careful set up is required. One of the things that I found is that the face of the stock that is against the fence has to be exactly square to the edge that is on the table or else there will be variations in the cut. Also if the board is bowed along it's length there will also be some runout.
Bill V

I'll keep all of this in mind when I begin doing real work on my "resaw station".

Using a feather more seems like an almost mandatory procedure unless one does an awful low of resawing.

I believe that it was reible who built a stacked feather board; two or three stacked one above the other and acting as a single unit. I may need something like that.

I did find that I have one band saw fence whose face is perpendicular to the table. That has been marked "for use when resawing".

Alignment of the other two will be projects for the future.

wa2crk wrote:Dusty;
I get what I consider to be good results on my SS bandsaw when resawing. You are correct in that very careful set up is required. One of the things that I found is that the face of the stock that is against the fence has to be exactly square to the edge that is on the table or else there will be variations in the cut. Also if the board is bowed along it's length there will also be some runout.
Bill V

You did not exactly say this but I believe that what is implied is that jointing an edge with reference to that specific face is an advisable first step when resawing.

What version(s) of the bandsaw fence do you have Dusty?

Is the 'resaw' fence the same as the one(s) not square?

I have had the same poor results over the years, especially with the really hard woods like Padauk which I use a lot. It was probably due to lack of proper setup now that I read your posts. I have generally cut the pieces fairly thick and then sanded them to the proper thickness which is very time consuming. I will try spending more time on set up and see what happens next time. Has anyone tried the Carter guide upgrade ? I thought I might try it.
Paul

Skip that last question. Just looked at all the previous reviews on the Carter upgrade. Think in will order one.
Paul

JPG wrote:What version(s) of the bandsaw fence do you have Dusty?

Is the 'resaw' fence the same as the one(s) not square?

I don't have a "resaw" fence. I have three stock Shopsmith band saw fences. I don't know what version they are. Shopsmith is not really good at providing distinguishing characteristics when they sell an item like these fences.

The three that I have are all the same. One of which has been seen (sorta) in this thread.

It is my opinion that installing Carter guides will improve nothing when resawing on the Shopsmith band saw. Why? Because the bearings and cool blocks already do what is necessary.

When using a wide blade (resaw blade), I squeeze the cool blocks down so that they touch the face of the band saw blade.

Alignment, in preparation for resawing, is done essentially the same way as for the table saw with the major difference being the narrow width of the blade. Basically, I align to the miter track and check those results against the blade.

Dusty, your 'resaw' fence is the one you wrote 'resaw' on.

So to answer my ? another way, do your fences have the rear clamp or just the single front clamp knob?.

Never mind, the last post reveals a rear clamp.