Mark V saves - DeWalt planer blades

[charlese]

Yeah! That's right! Because of the wonderful features of the Mark V and Shopsmith ingenuity, the users of the DeWalt 735 planer can now re-sharpen their old blades. Some of our forum members have DeWalt planers, with "disposable blades". Other members have other brands that have "disposable blades" The ability to re-sharpen them will save both in money and time.

In other threads, we discussed one of the ignoble features of the 735 was "you can't re-sharpen their blades. I have been thinking, Why not? When armed with the Shopsmith Planer/Jointer knife Sharpener (555471), and a Conical disk, it can be done. A new set of three blades costs about $55. Re-sharpening twice can bring this cost down to very reasonable. The SS sharpening jig costs about $50 so since it can be used to extend the blade life up to at least 3 times, it is a good buy for anyone having a 735.

I was hesitant to say anything on the Forum until It was done and these re-sharpened blades actually worked. Today, I re-sharpened used and nicked blades successfully and planed out about 40 lineal ft. of oak. The resulting surfaces were glossy smooth with absolutely no ridges from old nicks.

There are several considerations associated with sharpening these blades.
First- Care must be taken to grind off only the bare minimum amount of metal to remove chips and gain a keen edge. The blades must be installed at a fixed location in the planer. They can slide from side to side, but cannot be made to protrude outward any farther than the originals. Therefore as a new edge is ground the blade becomes narrower than the original. One would expect the resulting planing cut to be higher than the original new blades.

Second - The blades are thinner the the Shopsmith planer and jointer blades therefor the jig is not designed for those thinner blades. To use the jig, remove the spring washers beneath the clamp and lay the blade on the normal shelf as designed for SS blades. Put a 3/4" X 1/16" strip of wood on top of the blade beneath the jig clamp. Even though the blades protrude about 1/2" on either side of the jig, that does not present any problem. Just center the blade, clamp down on the wood, set up the Mark V and away you go.

Third - Tilt the Mark V table 2 degrees backward, away from the conical disk. (actually 2.5 degrees) This will replicate the same blade bevel angle as the original.

Observations - I removed small nicks from all three blades. Although I class these as small, they were deep enough to cause visible ridges in planed wood. Although I was concerned the re-sharpened blades would be too much thinner than the originals, this did not happen. I didn't have a micrometer, but the re-sharpened looked to be the same width as the new blades.

After planing the boards to 1/4" by use of the machine's stop, my caliper showed them to be 1/4" on the money. Cerebrally, I know this can't be factual, but my caliper doesn't lie. Therefor I come to the conclusion that the blades can be resharpened multiple times, maybe even 3 or 4 times. Anyway, the effect will be to make wider boards. It's easy to make thinner ones!

P.S. Looks like I had 2 1/2 degrees rather than 2!

[Bruce]

Thanks Chuck! You have saved me a ton of money. Post your address and I'll send it to you. NOT!

[BigSky]

Good job, charlese. I'm just disappointed that I can't take advantage of it. I have a Pro Planer and I wouldn't part with it, even for a free DeWalt and resharpenable blades.

[friscomike]

Howdy,

Thanks Charlese. I had the same opinion as you: why can't you resharpen them? You saved me the trouble of the experiment, and convinced me not to buy aftermarket blades to fit the Dewalt.

Best Regards,
mike

[charlese]

Well - I bought 1 set of replacement blades before I started the experiment. Am not sorry, because now I have enough blades to last almost a lifetime. (I plan on woodworking until age 100)

Seriously, The new blades are a backup - much like the extra belts and coupler I used to have for the Mark V. If a mishap occurs (like a piece of metal going through the planer) I know I'd never be able to sharpen that out!

I thought it was interesting that the Mark V also allows other brand tools to become more versatile and useful.

Bruce - take the money you save and send it to SS for new stuff, or replacement parts.

[Ed in Tampa]

I wonder if it would work on Delta blades? They are sharp on each side.
Perhaps I should buy a blade sharpening jig and try it.
If anyone does this before I do let me know how it works. Thanks!!!!

[Bruce]

I wonder if it would work on Delta blades? They are sharp on each side.
Perhaps I should buy a blade sharpening jig and try it.
If anyone does this before I do let me know how it works. Thanks!!!!

Ed,
The DeWalt knives are reversible, too, so it's possible it will work on your Delta blades. It probably depends on the thickness of the knives. I doubt if they're any thinner than the DeWalt knives or they wouldn't hold up to the abuse.

Bruce

[charlese]

I wonder if it would work on Delta blades? They are sharp on each side.

Hi Ed! I really don't know the answer with any assuredness! As said by Bruce, the DeWalt blades also are sharpened on both edges. This presents no problem in the Shopsmith jig, as it is made from aluminum and will not damage a sharp edge.

I'm absolutely positive that you can fashion a shim to fit above the blade so the clamp will close firmly! In fact probably a little better! If I remember correctly, the Delta blades are 12" long - the length of the jig - rather than 13" of the DeWalt blade.

The only issue I can think of is the width of the Delta blades. When you look at the second photo in my first post, you can see the DeWalt blade is about 1/8" wider than the 3/4" wide shim. If your blades are this wide - it'll work!

[Ed in Tampa]

Guess what I found I already own a sharpening Jig. I must have bought it right after it came out. I was digging around in my SS treasures when I spotted a strange box, much to my surprise I already own a sharpening jig. Now to try my Delta knives out in it.

Oh by the way I also found I'm the owners of 3 sets of router/shaper/sanding guards. These are the ones that have half a brush around them to control dust. I have no idea how I got three????
Ed

[woodburner]

Ed & Everyone,

I've been sharpening my Ryobi planer knives this way for a couple of years now. Thought everyone who has a Shopsmith sharpening jig knew about this. Oh well. But I will like to pass on a little advice to those who are new to sharpening their non-Shopsmith planer/jointer knives.

Don't forget that you need to use the conical sanding disk with the sharpening jig, with the correct sand paper attached. The conical sanding disk provides the angle you need.

The correct paper is important too so you will get razor sharp knives. To rough of paper and you will be dulling your knives and leaving small nicks in them. To fine of paper and you will overheat and ruin the integrity/strength (also called "bluing the steel") of your knives before they are sharp enough. This is especially important when sharpening non-Shopsmith knives that are manufactured thinner.

Also an important note is the sharpening jig doesn't work with the regular sanding disk because the planer/jointer knife should only touch a very small portion of the sanding disk/paper. If you use the regular sanding disk the knife will be touching the whole disk and ruin the blade. Tilting the table will not change this.

Thought I'd advise everyone about these fun facts before they try their hand at sharpening at home. I've saved a bit of money (more than what the sharpening system costs) doing my sharpening myself, both jointer and planer knives. I've only had to buy two sets of replacement knives over the last couple years for my planer instead of several. I always keep at least one set ready to go just in case I need to change them out right away.

I like to plane and joint all my wood before I use it so I know that it is all dimensioned to my satisfaction. Never trust a lumber yard to get it done right, and especially the pre-milled lumber at Home Depot or Lowes. Not only does sharpening your own knives save you money, but buying rough lumber and milling it yourself also is much lighter on the woodworking budget.

P.S. I learned from Rick Davis (Academy Instructor) a while back (3 years ?) at the academy that you can use the sharpening jig with other manufacturer's knives. You just have to make sure they fit the sharpening jig and you set the angle correctly. I've been sharpening my Ryobi planer blades with it for a couple years now and it works great:) .