SS Tilting Table, Does it have Limitations

[dusty]

Does using the Shopsmith in the tilted table configuration create any limitations that you consider unreasonable?

I bought my Shopsmith to do work in my garage, as a hobbiest and home owner. Being used in this manner, I find that the Shopsmith is a perfect tool.

If I was in a "production environment", I might not think so positively about my five in one tool. It does have shortcomings in that environment. Issues like depth of cut, size of table, limited horsepower all become serious considerations. But most of us are NOT in production environments.

[a1gutterman]

Does using the Shopsmith in the tilted table configuration create any limitations that you consider unreasonable?

Hi Dusty,
The short answer to that very specific question(:) ) is a resounding NO!

Here are some of my thoughts, from another thread:

I personally do not feel that the tilting table is a shortcoming of any kind. The way the Mark V is set up, with PROPER PLANNING, cutting a bevel with the tilted table allows you to continue on the same work piece, with other operations that require the same bevel, without having multiple set-ups. What other tool can you do that with? I do not feel that the materials being worked will slide into the blade/sanding-disk/drill-bit/etc., as long as adequate and proper supports, jigs, fences, clamps, etc., are being utilized. Although I have never seen one, I was under the impression that a proper cabinet-makers saw had a tilting table.

[brown_hawk]

Didn't we already answer this question?

In short, no.

One possible problem would be crosscutting extra wide pieces. And that would be a problem with any table saw. You either need extra table space, or lots of jigs, etc. For myself, an extra wide beveled crosscut will be done either by a skil saw or a beveled router bit. Safer, more control moving a small saw over a big piece of wood. To say nothing of cheaper than all that rarely used extra table space.

The other might be crosscutting in half a long and wide piece. And the same answer pops up. I think some people think of the upper piece falling into the blade and being kicked wherever. But again, most TS won't handle that without expensive extra tables and jigs.

The ONLY time I have ever seen cuts like that made, (from sheets of ply,) they were made using a skil saw and a clamped down edge guide, after test cuts to make sure the angles were correct.

In a production environment, you are talking dedicated tools because of the TIME involved. You want to move quickly from one operation to another, and have the same setup at each position for infinite repeatability. Having a multi-purpose tool is a waste of money, (unless of course, your production environment is for making multi-purpose tools;) Then you are using your own product.)

A better question might be: Is there anything I would do on a table saw that I wouldn't do on a SS in TS configuration? And the secondary question: Is that because of the hardware, or is it that I don't trust myself to do it (bevel cut or something) correctly.

Most of the comments I've run into over the years have to do with the large goods and the bevel cut. In answer, I have always asked how they did it on a TS. The answer is generally the same: skil saw and edge guide.

Hawk

[dusty]

Philosophically, yes - all things have limitations. Practically speaking, yes and I have discovered one of them.

With the table set at a 45 degree right tilt, the maximum depth of cut is just a bit over 3/4".

I'll be back to add a photo or two. Right now I cannot locate the ones that make my point.

[a1gutterman]

Philosophically, yes - all things have limitations. Practically speaking, yes and I have discovered one of them.

With the table set at a 45 degree right tilt, the maximum depth of cut is just a bit over 3/4".

I'll be back to add a photo or two. Right now I cannot locate the ones that make my point.

I can see it in your current avatar, Dusty,

So, I stand corrected????

As most of my bevels wood be on product 3/4" or less, that wood still not be an "unreasonable" limitation. For the infrequent times that I wood need to make such a bevel on product exceeding 3/4", I do have my 12" stand alone, arbor tilting TS.

[a1gutterman]

Philosophically, yes - all things have limitations. Practically speaking, yes and I have discovered one of them.

With the table set at a 45 degree right tilt, the maximum depth of cut is just a bit over 3/4".

I'll be back to add a photo or two. Right now I cannot locate the ones that make my point.

Hi Dusty,
Am I missing something? I just went to my shop, put a 10" SS sawblade on the quill, set my table @ 45 degrees tilt to the right, slid it over to the blade and lowered it to it's lowest point without the table insert touching the blade arbor. I have enough blade exposed to cut a board up to 3" thick at that angle. Am I not doing the same thing that you are?

edit: Now, a left tilt is a different story: With the table at @ 45 degree tilt to the left, I can not lower the table to expose any part of my 10" blade before the table comes to a rest on the headstock.

[qtndas01]

IMHO the only limitation in the tilting table is on long (in length) stock due to the way tubes. I hope you are not regretting purchasing the SS. The only other limitaions I have noticed in the close to 25 years I have had my SS is with some SPT when working on large projects (joining 10 to 12 foot boards/ cutting designs on the bandsaw and limitations of depth of cut when resawing). The times I have had to tilt the table (with the exception of raised panels) have been minimal. When I purchased me SS I was most interested in the horizonal boring and it gave me as reliable machine at he same cost as purchasing consumer grade individual machines and saved alot of space. With some of the upgrades I feel I have a better machine.

[dusty]

No, Tim you are not missing anything. I failed torovide all of the information you need to replicate my attempted operation.

The boards that I am going to bevel are long enough (42") that I had to move the carriage/headstock all the way to the right end of the way tubes. Furthermore, I have my sliding crosscut sled mounted along with a floating table to support the rip fence.

Without the floating table and sliding crosscut sled mounted, I have almost full blade depth of cut. Actually the lower edge of the main table touches the way tubes thus limiting depth of cut adjustment.

Sorry about that. I got frustrated when I couldn't load the photos I had; I should have just terminated the post.

qtndas01: Absolutely not. I have had my Shopsmith many, many years and I have never had a moment of regret. By necessity, I have a small shop and without the advantages that the Shopsmith brings I probably would not have a shop at all. I'd have a garage, a cabinet full of hand and small power tools and that would be it The Shopsmith enables me to do almost everything I ever want to do in the shop. I don't build full size furniture but that is not because of the Shopsmith. You see several craftsmen posting photos here of their furniture built on a Shopsmith. I believe the SS has some limitations but they are just that, limitations and NOT show stoppers..

[a1gutterman]

[quote="dusty"]No, Tim you are not missing anything. I failed torovide all of the information you need to replicate my attempted operation.

The boards that I am going to bevel are long enough (42") that I had to move the carriage/headstock all the way to the right end of the way tubes. Furthermore, I have my sliding crosscut sled mounted along with a floating table to support the rip fence.

Without the floating table and sliding crosscut sled mounted, I have almost full blade depth of cut. Actually the lower edge of the main table touches the way tubes thus limiting depth of cut adjustment.

Sorry about that. I got frustrated when I couldn't load the photos I had]
Okay Dusty, I can see what you are describing. Are the boards that you are cutting at the 45 degree bevel thicker then 3/4"? If so, I guess that you do have a major limiting shortcoming. Do you have the SS bandsaw? Can you make your bevel using it (if you have one)? Or are your boards too wide to do that comfortably?

[dusty]

Yes, I can solve my construction problem. Thank you for your reponse.

Remembering the objective of this post is to determine the Limitations of the Shopsmith when using it in the Tilted Table configuration.

The first one that I have discovered is that when attempting to bevel long stock that necessitates moving the headstock to the right end of the way tubes. Depth of cut is limited to about 3/4" because the Base Arm interferes with the crosscut sled at that depth.

Side Note: I have the Lift Assist. Without the Lift Assist, I might be able to move right on the tubes far enough to avoid this problem. Also, If I remove the crosscut sled from the configuration, I gain another 1/2" or so depth of cut.