Shopsmith Forums

This has to have been discussed to death. Can someone direct me to a thread or just answer the question: Can you re power your 10ER with the Mark V motor you removed to install your PowerPro upgrade? My old ER would love a new motor and it would make me feel a little better about spending the money if I was getting some "value added". I assume that at least some creative mounting would be required. I'm more interested in whether it is just physically too big or some other deal breaker.

Thanks in advance.

If you have a capacitor cover on top of the Mark V motor, then you would have to make room or a hole for it on the bench. I used some 2" aluminum L channel bent into a "V" shape for the motor mounts when I used the Mark V motors for other woodworking equipment. I drilled holes in the aluminum channel for all the mounting bolts.

Thanks Bill. I was hoping you were around. I am home in Canada right now where the 10ER is so I can't check the motor on the Mark V which is in Green Valley at my winter place. It is a 1990 510. Would that indicate whether it would have an offending capacitor?
The motor on the10ER isn't original and I moved the cap a bit to the side on it. Could that be done on the Mk V motor?
I don't really want to dig a hole in the bench but wouldn't mind installing foot lift blocks.

I would think the difference in speeds would be the worse problem to deal with.

Ed

shipwright wrote:This has to have been discussed to death. Can someone direct me to a thread or just answer the question: Can you re power your 10ER with the Mark V motor you removed to install your PowerPro upgrade? My old ER would love a new motor and it would make me feel a little better about spending the money if I was getting some "value added". I assume that at least some creative mounting would be required. I'm more interested in whether it is just physically too big or some other deal breaker.

Thanks in advance.

I see that as the deal breaker(if there is one). Any ,mounting adaptation would have to not cause the motor to get too close to the 'intarsia'.

The capacitor location is a nit since it could be mounted wherever you desire.

The 'back' end mount is merely screwed to the motor shell. The output shaft end with the fan shroud etc. will be more challenging.

The motor shaft od is 5/8". I do not recall what the 10ER motor pulley id is.

I see this as likely doable if the fan shroud is 'eliminated'. A frame 56 end cap may replace the fan shroud.

Simple brain storming here.

I still see a 10ER needing a 1725 rpm motor having an issue with a 3600 rpm motor out of a modern shopsmith being a big deal...... or am I missing something here?

Ed

reible wrote:I still see a 10ER needing a 1725 rpm motor having an issue with a 3600 rpm motor out of a modern shopsmith being a big deal...... or am I missing something here?

Ed

You are not missing anything, but I sure did!

That's the kind of thing I was looking for Ed. I wasn't aware of the speed differences. Could I not reduce the circumference of the motor pulley by half?
EDIT: I just looked at the photo again . Looks like the belt is already on the smallest step. Smaller may not be doable.

shipwright wrote:That's the kind of thing I was looking for Ed. I wasn't aware of the speed differences. Could I not reduce the circumference of the motor pulley by half?
EDIT: I just looked at the photo again . Looks like the belt is already on the smallest step. Smaller may not be doable.

For the speed changer to work at both ranges, the belts are rearranged. The motor pulley requires both the smallest and the largest pulley.(as well as the upper pulley)

Your pix shows it in lo range.

Right you are. Think a pulley sub is doable?