Shopsmith Forums

GOAL: To be able set the rip fence in a fairly accurate position from the blade, and parallel to the blade, without a tape measure. Unlike fences on newer models, my rip fence doesn't always align perfectly parallel to blade. Having lines spaced 1/4" apart helps me visually check that fence is parallel to blade as knob is tightened. Fine tuning of width of cut done with ruler or tape measure by moving blade left or right with quill.

FIRST METHOD: I drew lines with a Sharpie Marker, spaced 1/4" apart. With use and cleaning, these lines didn't last long and had to be re-drawn.

SECOND METHOD: After drawing lines, coated table with polyurethane varnish. While lines lasted longer, several drawbacks became evident. To keep lines from "dissolving" with first coat (brush or wipe-on), first several light coats were applied using spray varnish. Any varnish that got on sides of miter slots had to be removed for miter gauge to slide smoothly. Lines still faded, or perhaps just appeared to fade as table was used and varnish surface became dull with small scratches. Varnish added unattractive amber color.

FINAL METHOD: Engrave lines in table. Table first sanded to remove old varnish, lines, and to "flatten" table, which sanding soon revealed was needed. Started with 60 grit Aluminum Oxide wrapped around 12" long block of wood, and progressed to 280 grit. Next, using Dremel tool with 1/8" 90 degree carbide CNC bit and clamped straightedge, route or engrave lines 1/4" apart. Whole inch increments were routed more times (50 passes each) to give deeper/wider lines. Other lines routed on average 15 passes.

Now that this is done and motor removed/cleaned so it starts, I can get back to using it and even try out my 12" thickness planer, which is still waiting to be tried.

Interesting. I guess the question is, what are the lines parallel to, exactly? The miter slot?

I would assume that but it does not really matter so long as it is those lines that are used to align the table to the blade and the rip fence to either the table or the blade.

I like what you have done and I would like to have one line done on my 510/520 table (the center line). I have often cussed Shopsmith for now doing that.

Yes, lines were engraved parallel to miter slots, or as close to parallel as I could. Between measuring and marking at front and rear of table, setting guide the proper offset distance from those marks to center of bit, I'm sure I'm off a little, but it saves me handling a ruler one more time to get fence about where I need it. Table is adjusted so that blade is parallel to miter slots.

After initially posting, it dawned on me I forgot to cut one more line, perpendicular to miter slots and centered on quill. A corresponding line on my fence and layout lines on my workpiece helps align bit when using horizontal boring function. Fortunately, I hadn't yet removed the bit from the Dremel tool, so not much effort to truly be finished.

I'm curious! Does the left side of the blade align with the center line of the table insert when the quill is fully retracted?

How far apart are the miter slots? Scratch that question. I can look at your table and answer this using your grid lines.

That is actually pretty slick! I like it. Makes the table look nice also .....

I would be more concerned with WHY the rip fence is unpredictable.

With a '500', technique counts.

Off set screws must be fully retracted.

Fence must be registered to front rail(manually/push) prior to operating clamp knob.

In any event. blade/miter slots/fence must all be parallel to each other.

dusty wrote:I'm curious! Does the left side of the blade align with the center line of the table insert when the quill is fully retracted?

Yes, but ... only with a standard 1.25" arbor. With my 5/8" arbor, no. And with my modified lower saw guard, washers on post interfere with rubber stop, so I routinely extend the quill a 1/2" or so anyway before doing any sawing. Then I have some adjustment capability, by extending or retracting quill, for exact width of cut.

JPG wrote:I would be more concerned with WHY the rip fence is unpredictable.

Now, it usually does square up, but once upon a time it usually didn't, and I was having to measure from a miter slot (or even less accurately, from edge of table) to the fence at front and rear to ensure it was parallel to blade. I got into the habit of always checking. Seems like the knob was little hard to turn too, so perhaps one my routine cleanings and lubes fixed it. Now I like being able to just sight the fence against a line, or check for uniform distance from a line, along the length of the fence, as I tighten the knob. And if I want to offset the rear edge a little away from the blade to ensure stock doesn't bind, I can do that too.

Thanks for the tip about registering fence against front rail - I was not aware of that.