Shopsmith Forums

I want to polish/derust 2 ER way tubes, I looked over the Threads in maintenance and repair, JPG stated in one of Bills, that a 1 3/8 diam freeze plug for the ERs, well, the one I bought just wont go in. I dont know if a
1 1/4 will expand enough.
Secondly I thought I had it saved, a thread/pic of a support set up that the person used some castors or skate board wheels at the tail stock area. Any help would be appreciated as always.

I wrote a piece on that some time back after reading how many others here had done it.

My post http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 33#p175733 is in a thread about that topic.

I had to chuck mine up and sand it down a bit to true it up and keep it from oscillating as it was a bit non-centered.

I don't know why you couldn't do the same thing to reduce the diameter of your plug, which would also true it up. Also look at the end of the tubes as there may be some spots that you could grind / sand off if they are not smooth inside.

Is the post you are looking for with the wheels perhaps this one by Bill Mayo? http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewt ... 567#p11567

ERLover wrote:I want to polish/derust 2 ER way tubes, I looked over the Threads in maintenance and repair, JPG stated in one of Bills, that a 1 3/8 diam freeze plug for the ERs, well, the one I bought just wont go in. I dont know if a
1 1/4 will expand enough.
Secondly I thought I had it saved, a thread/pic of a support set up that the person used some castors or skate board wheels at the tail stock area. Any help would be appreciated as always.

I used a tapered wood plug on a screw center before I got a Nova chuck. The other end was supported by two cheap Harbor Freight castors screwed to a piece of plywood and clamped to the aux table. The wood plug gets worn after the first use but just wrap a few layers of painters tape around it and you are fine. Tap the tube lightly on the end to seat it on the plug. It holds just fine since you don't need a lot of pressure with the sand paper.

My rig was very similar to John's. Just turn a tapered plug (you may have to take a hammer and a board and force it on again periodically, it doesn't take much to support the "free" end, I just just a V jig of 2x4's(actually a X ) with aN arm connected to the extension table hole (another plug) to stabilize it. Used a power drill with a wire wheel in it. They came out perfect!

Assuming I posted 1 3/8" as the freeze plug size, I apologize. I do not have a 1 3/8" plug. I have a well worn 1 1/4 and both a 1 1/2 and 1 5/8 plug that have gotten little to no use.

More recently I have been using a 4 jaw chuck(metal working).

With the freeze plugs, the id must be clear of any burrs. A rat tail file corrects that.

Eveerret,
Thanks, when I put the freeze plug and the attachment into the chuck just to see how it turned, a bit out of true, ya I will shave it down a tich to fit, since a 1 1/4 wont work, stupid me, I am better then that, caught up in the moment.
Love the wireless lab top, hate that if my palm of my hand hits the flat/mouse area, all goes to poop, or is it Windows 8?

JSBugger
thanks too much creative work, sorry if I slammed you on the blade thread, out of sorts tonight with the mom thing. Plus I think I AM always right!!!LOL

When I cleaned up the tubes on my first 10ER I used an electric drill/rubber plug on the driven end.

To support the other end I used the 10er tie bar clamped in my Zyliss vise. I removed the set screw and added some oil. The steel tube ran very smoothly in the cast iron bore, no heat, no wear and the price was right.

Thanks all, one done and the other after lunch settles. Cleaned up the freeze plug to fit and used the same rollers/castors as JS. I do/did feel a bit nervous with about 25lb of spinning metal in front of me.

ERLover wrote:JSBugger
thanks too much creative work, sorry if I slammed you on the blade thread, out of sorts tonight with the mom thing. Plus I think I AM always right!!!LOL

No problem. I have to keep reminding myself that I am not always right.