Shopsmith Forums

G'day all

I have managed to straighten out the bent threaded rod on the speed control wheel. I can now rotate it with 2 fingers.

While assembling the speed control I noticed the ware on the spring steel on the "pork chop" is quite off centered and the ware on the button is also off to one side and tapered. Should I be concerned about this?

The speed control sheave also has a small crack, I have braised it up and filed smooth, fingers crossed it holds up.

The fixes that you have incorporated will most likely work just fine. The question is - "for how long". The crack may be an indication of future problems. For now, I would say that you are probably in business. The wear being off center on the gears is typical. Once realigned, as you have done, the wear pattern will be more normal.

I would begin collecting nickels for a new mechanism. However, it is only fair for me to say that I have had a spare unit stored under the work bench for about six years and there is no sign that I am going to need it soon.

Remember, what you are repairing is the DIRECT result of an ignored (and I might say abused) machine. Keep it lubricated and clean. Properly lubricated being most important.

You can not over oil the sheaves. Yes, you can put enough oil in there that to make it throw oil all over the inside of the headstock. Don't do that. You'll just have to wipe it up. I oil every time I am inside of the headstock for any reason.

Steve;
I have some concerns about your pictures.
#1 shows a bright spot on the end of the "button" installed in the bearing on the control sheave. This wear and your mention of it in your second paragraph indicates to me that the bearing in the end of the control sheave has frozen at some point in time.
#3 shows a correct assembly of the loop spring and the button in the center of the bearing. As you can see, the button should not turn with the shaft. The button and the inner race of the bearing should remain stationary and only the outer race of the bearing should rotate with the shaft.
In addition, the slight blue coloring of the hub of the control sheave is also an indication of excess heat that may have been caused by a bearing failure.
Taking Dusty's advice I would advise saving some extra nickels for a replacement control sheave as well as the speed control assembly.
If you have already replaced the bearing disregard all I have said.
Bill V

IIWM, I would straighten the wire clip. It should have a rectangular shape. The ends are inside the tension pin.

I assume the discoloration was caused by the brazing.

I venture to guess the wire mangling was caused by the bearing/wire being pulled out of the control sheave hub. Also a likely cause of the 'crack'.

I am not concerned re the shiney button. As long as the button is 'smooth' it should be ok. All it does is slide on the porkchop when the speed is adjusted. The wire clip prevents the button from rotating with the hub. The porkchop should NEVER pull the wire clip. The sheave is pushed 'out' by belt tension(the floating sheave/spring's job). The button does however hold the control sheave in position along the idler shaft.

I would at least get a control sheave as a backup.

I am glad to see brazing is a viable repair of a control sheave hub. You are the beta test!!!!


Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate

Thanks again for the guidance. You are correct JPG, the blue coloring was caused by the brazing. I figured why not have a go at brazing it up, being so far from a good supply of parts it was worth a go. Happy to beta test LOL

I do plan to replace the control sheave in the future.....My parents are traveling to the USA early next year to visit a friend so they will be able to bring parts back for me. Fingers crossed my repairs hold out til then.

The bearing is a little bit loose inside the control sheave, i believe this is my fault from when i removed it. Although from the video i watched on YouTube it doesn't look to be the tightest fit and that why the top is crimped a bit to help hold it in place?

I also braised up the 4e jointer I bought which unfortunately was broken in transit. The tab that the height adjustment handle locates on snapped off. It's holding up so far.....After a few more uses I will dismantle it again and paint to match my 10E.

Put the head stock back together today and ran the motor for a while. It is much quieted with new bearings. It is still a little bit tight to turn at one point close to fast, but much better then it was.

Ran through all speeds several times. So far so good with the braised control sheave


[quote="JPG"


Lubricate Lubricate Lubricate[/quote]

Put several drops of oil in each hole on the control and motor sheaves

Marty

Do that again the next time you are inside the headstock.

megastevo81 wrote: . . . It is still a little bit tight to turn at one point close to fast, but much better then it was.

. . .
Marty

At just above 'saw joint' it should be 'tighter'. At that point the outer dial is climbing onto the anti-rattle spring.

dumb question I am sure, but is there no way to install Mark V Speed control
on a Mark VII?

My initial thoughts are that it would be a butcher job.(no turning back)