Infeed Tables, Do You Ever Need Them?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat May 03, 2008 1:23 pm

Hawk, I hope this will help you.

I have another post about Harvested 510 Parts. You might want to refer to that as well. Unless you have never had a 510 and therefore have no Harvested Parts.

Refer to the Shopsmith site for a description of Extension Table Brackets, 555997.
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=555997 (Wouldn't you know, No Pictures)

Obviously, you would have to add some sort of table surface to this. The last two images ares are repeats from the other thread.

Sorry about all the background clutter in P5030004.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat May 03, 2008 1:33 pm

Do you EVER need them? That is a good question. Maybe you are going to add to your post to discuss this?

In any event, I generally do not miss having an infeed table. If I had one, I wood want it to be short, otherwise, it may get in the way (I am only 5'4" tall, and wood not want to make a long stretch over the saw). My single purpose (I like Nick's description better then "stand alone") TS has a somewhat larger table in front of the blade, and I find that more then adequate.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat May 03, 2008 1:45 pm

Someone will undoubtedly add to the post to discuss why they DO or DO NOT need infeed tables. I feel that this is another one of those opinion type things. If you think you need them - then you probably do.

SWMBO often asks when she finds that I am placing an order - "Why do you think you need that, when you've done without for so many years".) I could always place the order but it is sure a lot easier if I have a quick answer.

"No, I don't really need it but I want it." That used to work but no more - the burden of a fixed income you know.

a1gutterman · Post by **a1gutterman** » Sat May 03, 2008 5:15 pm

dusty wrote:Someone will undoubtedly add to the post to discuss why they DO or DO NOT need infeed tables. I feel that this is another one of those opinion type things. If you think you need them - then you probably do.

SWMBO often asks when she finds that I am placing an order - "Why do you think you need that, when you've done without for so many years".) I could always place the order but it is sure a lot easier if I have a quick answer.

"No, I don't really need it but I want it." That used to work but no more - the burden of a fixed income you know.

Hi Dusty,
When wanting a particular item, think first on what you can do for SWMBO with that item, then you will have your quick answer when she catches you ordering it.

brown_hawk · Post by **brown_hawk** » Sat May 03, 2008 8:18 pm

a1gutterman wrote:Hi Dusty,
When wanting a particular item, think first on what you can do for SWMBO with that item, then you will have your quick answer when she catches you ordering it.

Tim,

In this case, kitchen base cabinets are 24" wide, which makes cross cutting on the SS a no go. With this setup, I would be able to use my sliding crosscut sled to handle the 24"x30" sides and 24"x48 bottoms. So if SWMBO asks about this, the magic answer is "Kitchen Cabinets." Of course, for the good of your soul and physical well-being, you may not want to use that answer.

Dusty,

That looks like exactly what I need. But those dang brackets don't come cheap, do they?

Question: Are those screw brackets in number 4 a part of the SS brackets?

Thanks, Hawk

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat May 03, 2008 8:56 pm

In your case, I think the answer is a resounding YES. In order to crosscut 24" pieces, you are almost (if NOT actually) exceeding the capacity of the crosscut sled.

I suggest that what you need is the support of an infeed table extension but I don't believe you necessarily need the extension brackets. Here's what I would try.

Set the main table for depth of cut required. Set the right Extension Table to match that height. Use Stop Collars if you have them. Move the Carriage Assembly so as to create room for two Floating Tables to be installed in between the Main Table and the Right Hand Extension Table. Using the longest support tubes that you have, attach the Floating Tables to the Main Table/Extension Table. Support the infeed end of the Floating Tables with the Telescopic Support Legs and another support tube.

Check this set up with the cross cut sled. Does it provide adequate support for the sled when pulled back far enough to get 24" stock between the fence and blade? Do you have adequate side to side control over the sled.

If not, you may need to develop a longer miter rail to replace the miter rail on the sled. Or make a sled like Norm's from a piece of plywood and a longer than normal hardwood miter bar.

This is one of those very infrequent occasions when it would be nice to have a floating table with a miter slot. On that thought, you don't happen to have a 2nd 520 Main Table hanging around. A main table in place of the two floating tables would do the trick. Just add a 2nd miter rail in the correct location on the sled.

As an alternate procedure (setup), create a gap between the right side of the main table and the adjacent floating table to act as a "miter slot". Create and attach a make shift miter bar to the sled.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat May 03, 2008 9:19 pm

brown_hawk wrote: Question: Are those screw brackets in number 4 a part of the SS brackets?

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachment.htm?attachmentid=1079&d=1205612443

If these are the parts that you are asking about, the black parts are all from my scrap pile. The other parts are from a 510 rail assembly?

It you upgrade to get to your 520 configuration?

brown_hawk · Post by **brown_hawk** » Sat May 03, 2008 9:33 pm

Dusty,

It does exceed the capacity of the sled, I checked.

Your idea sounds like it would work, but it will have to wait a few days before I can try it. I've got some 1/2" MDF for a sled, and I have more than enough white oak for a miter bar

Almost got my new router setup done, but when I do a measurement from the wrong side of the ruler, I figure it's time to call it a day. I should have that done tomorrow, and maybe a review of the lift to post tomorrow or Monday.

Then I'll do a trial of this setup and post some pictures. As for now, I'm totally wasted and going to bed.

Thanks for the help and ideas.

Hawk

brown_hawk · Post by **brown_hawk** » Sat May 03, 2008 9:36 pm

dusty wrote:http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachment.htm?attachmentid=1079&d=1205612443

If these are the parts that you are asking about, the black parts are all from my scrap pile. The other parts are from a 510 rail assembly?

It you upgrade to get to your 520 configuration?

Yes. I'll have to see if I can find the parts. I might have recycled them years ago:( But there are some available on ebay right now.

Thanks, Hawk

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Sat May 03, 2008 9:51 pm

[quote="brown_hawk"]Tim,

In this case, kitchen base cabinets are 24" wide, which makes cross cutting on the SS a no go. With this setup, I would be able to use my sliding crosscut sled to handle the 24"x30" sides and 24"x48 bottoms. So if SWMBO asks about this, the magic answer is "Kitchen Cabinets." Of course, for the good of your soul and physical well-being, you may not want to use that answer.]

Okay I gotta ask why not simply put the fence to the length of the cut you want and make your cut similar to a rip cut. It you use you splitter the wood can't cock and wedge between the blade and fence like a narrower piece can.
I built many a cabinet crosscutting on my Shopsmith using the fence on any piece that was wide enough that the cut end would be on the splitter before the front end got too narrow to hold the wood straight.

The only time you can't use the fence to crosscut is when the piece is too narrow and it will be cut through before the outfeed side is back to the splitter/riving knife. If you do and the wood should twist it can wedge between the blade and fence and become a missile. However if the piece is wide enough so the cut end is on the splitter/riving knife it can't cock or twist.
Ed